Okay, here's my situation...
I had the Mickey Mouse/Rube Goldberg door handle linkage break or come apart on the driver's side door ('72 Vette) while pressing down the door handle. I was able to open the driver's side door from the passenger side. Next I was finally able to get the window crank **** off by drilling holes into the window crank base so that I could use a chisel to break it off. The C-clip retainer thingy was totally invisible. After that I was able to figure out to remove the grab handle screws to take the inside panel off.

Now comes the major problem...I accidently leaned against the door and it closed. Not completely, but 1/2 way to where it is 1/2 latched. I figured no big deal I will just open it with the inside handle. WRONG. Evidently I tripped the locking mechanism and the inside handle does nothing. I tried to move the lock by pulling on the lock rods, but it only moves a little way. So what APPEARS to have happened is the door is locked, I can't unlock it, and the door is closed 1/2 way to where I can't open it. ARGH!!!

The key doesn't unlock the door either. At least, it won't go far enough to do so and I don't want to break it off, adding to my problems. I swear, I am about ready to get the Dremel cutting wheel out and see if I can cut the dang door post off and get it open that way. A door post is cheap to replace. Not sure if I can get at it, though.
Anyone got any suggestions?

 

If you push down on this part it might unlock:

 

Pete is CORRECT...your door will unlock...by pushing on the tab hes has marked in the photo.

The problem you have now is you linkage is pressing down on the latch (like you are trying to open the door from the outside)...and when this occurs...IF you lock the door...you WILL NOT be able to unlock it due to the latch is stopping it form being unlocked until you remove or release the rod from the outside handle.

DJ Dep, You need to take breath and RELAX. You are getting too wound up over this and your comments are making you seem reckless and willing to do about anything...even if it is destroying your car...just to get a SIMPLE problem resolved.
A door handle removing tool would have prevented you from chiseling off your window crank handle and "possibly" damaging a good regulator.

I hope you were "joking"...and you know that your questions will be resolved here on the Forum...so no need to jump into it "blind" and destroy your car. The only reason I am writing this is so "others" who may read this may understand that I repair cars from people who should NOT have touched it and it actually costs them more $$$ than if they brought it to me to fix first. I am not writing that people can not repair their own cars...but make sure the procedures that are taken..are the right ones. Just a thought.

DUB

 

"QUOTE"

"I hope you were "joking"...and you know that your questions will be resolved here on the Forum...so no need to jump into it "blind" and destroy your car. The only reason I am writing this is so "others" who may read this may understand that I repair cars from people who should NOT have touched it and it actually costs them more $$$ than if they brought it to me to fix first. I am not writing that people can not repair their own cars...but make sure the procedures that are taken..are the right ones. Just a thought.

DUB "

Wow Dub, You said that with a bit more "tact" than I could of. Stan.

 

Now that's funny right there, accurate, but funny none the less
M

 

Pete: That looks like it might be the area under the outside door lever? If it is, it's gonna be tough to get at or even see it. I also believe the door handle is completely disconnected from the opening mechanism. Only the inside handle is working the rods. Do you mean if I push down on that part it will UNLOCK, or UNLATCH and the door will open? I am gonna remove the door handle (if I can) and see if I can get a better look at things. Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.

DUB: I am 65 years old. I am not some young kid with his first car. I have been working on these things since 1963 with my first car. Drilling off the window **** and maybe cutting off the locking stud on the door post are relatively minor things. Trust me, I have done MUCH WORSE to this and other cars. And yes, I DID buy the special tool for removing the window ****. It didn't even come close to being able to even touch the C-clip that held it on. I know what I am doing and the window regulator was in no danger. The window crank is made out of cheap pot metal and careful drilling at slow speed allowed me to remove the part with no damage to surrounding areas. If you saw what I did to the rest of the car, you would probably go into fits. I pretty much ripped everything out to save weight. Radio that worked, air conditioning unit, heater, power steering, original numbers-matching motor and auto trans, blah, blah, blah. All gone. I installed a factory brake-clutch pedal assembly and I will be installing a crate motor and Muncie 4-speed. Car will probably NOT be streetable, but that's fine with me.
I would caution you not to lecture someone until you know what their plans are for their car. I am not in the least bit interested in restoring this car. I AM interested in making it go fast for 1/4 mile. What others do to their car is pretty much THEIR business. I would never presume to tell someone what they should do based on my personal preferences. Understand I am grateful for the information on my problem. But I can do without the lecture.

 

I think I did mine with a long thin screwdriver with the window down. Put the screwdriver through the gap this creates at the rear of the door. Pushing that little tab will UNLOCK and UNLATCH the door.

 

http://willcoxcorvette.com/popup_image.php?pID=27773

With the window down come in from the top of the door.

 

Excellent! Window is down. This is exactly what I wanted to know thank you and thanks to petes74ttop. Will try it today and report back.

 

I was having so many problems with bad linkage and clips, that I drilled a 1/4 hole on the inside edge of my door panel (it can't be seen) so I can come in from the other side with a small screwdriver. Slide it through the hole and hit that lever. Saved me a few times!

 

Hmmmmm...now THAT is some creative thinking! I like it. Will have to look into that.

 

Well I am almost ready to warm up the Dremel grinder with this one. I went outside and took along that Wilcox picture of the locking mechanism. Unfortunately, it is the passenger side picture and it is almost impossible to relate to the drivers side. At least, the lever I was supposed to move was invisible. Seems like all these pictures are with the inner metal door panel removed or just the mechanism all by itself. I removed ONE of the nuts that secures the door handle. But GM, in it's infinite wisdom, has it so you CAN'T remove the other nut because it is blocked by the door mechanism. Brilliant!

I am gonna print out the other picture posted above and see if I can find that dang lever to trip. But I got a bad feeling it is also gonna be unreachable.

On a brighter note, the door latching post that is mounted on the pillar is quite visible and seems reachable with Mr. Dremel. So there IS hope.

 

SUCCESS!!!!! Using the pictures in post #2 and 10 I was finally able to spot that lever. I got a screwdriver on it and pushed down and the door opened. YAY!!! A big thank you to everyone who helped out. I owe you guys big time.

Now one last question and I will let you guys get back to your work...the door handle. I got one nut off no problem...and of course, it dropped doen into the door Now how the heck do you get off the other nut. I just barely got a 7/16 wrench on it but it will take me forever to unscrew it that way if I can even get enough movement to keep reversing the wrench. Do I have to take off the door latching mechanism to get this one stoopid nut off????

 

Unscrew the latch and let it drop down. This will give you more room.

 

The next time you need to open a locked door it will take about two minutes.

 

DJ Dep,

I am glad you got the door open.

Lets CLEAR one thing up.

I deal with many Private Messages from forum members who are at the "wits" end and need help when doing body work or other issues. I have many of them from time to time write that they are going to take chainsaw to their car to get that panel off...or beat it off with a sledge hammer. SO..when I read that you were going to "hack" at your car...I reacted to try to calm you down so you "possibly" would not do something that you would regret. SO if I responded or communicated to you in manner that you took offense in. I am NOT apologizing for that. So your "words of caution" have not merit...because you did not communicate. Your initial post came across that you were seriously frustrated....unless you are one of those type of people who exaggerate their emotions to get a response. WELL..you got one and you wonder why. This is a PERFECT example of what is partially wrong in America today. People who try to help other people out when it comes across that they are needing help when written or spoken in a way that can be interpreted that they are REALLY STRESSED OUT and are possibly going to be reckless...and get LAMBASTED for it.


Pete's photo clearly showed where to go...and common sense and logic would dictate that the other side of the car is a mirror image of what was shown if it was the other side...and with you working on cars since 1963...I am sure you know that. And seeing how you never communicated your intentions with your car...leaving it OPEN to interpretation...and not making it CLEAR that you do not want anyone to tell you "jack squat" and just let you "vent"....WE both are at fault. Because if I knew that you are making a 1/4 mile rocket ship.... and being obviously "know what you are doing"...I would have let you cut the door/post off.

Not that you will take this advice...but make sure you test the system before you shut the door....and the clip that goes on the rod for the door handle itself can only go on one way CORRECTLY...if it gets installed incorrectly...the rod can slide through the hole in the lever and get pinched while you are opening the door and you will be going through all of this again.

Best of luck in your 1/4 mile runs.

DUB

 

Yep. I saw those 3 screws on the door pillar and it occurred to me that just maybe they would drop the latch assembly down enough to clear a wrench. Thanks!

 

LOL...even less if the internals aren't broken. I still need to search out the problem of why this happened in the first place. Gotta sort through the Rube Goldberg rods and clips.

 

DUB: I am glad I got the door open too. Let me clear a few things up. I did not private message you. I posted publicly. I don't even know you. And yes, I was VERY peed off at my car and I'm sure many others have felt the same way. Working on these old clunkers that seem to have been designed by drunk engineers who were getting ready to go home on Friday night will do that too you. I spent a lot of cash for this clunker and I am not insane. I would NOT destroy something I am trying to rebuild. However, I don't hesitate to take short cuts that will make things easier for me. Again...I couldn't care less about "numbers matching" and all that stuff. I didn't see anyone else take your position of "calming me". Only you. Makes me wonder just how much you have worked on Vettes, especially old ones. They are notorious for peeing people off. I never said I didn't want anyone to tell me "jack squat". Stop inserting words into my mouth. And stop using quotes where they don't belong. I needed CONSTRUCTIVE HELP which I received from petes74ttop, my 76 ray, and Hugie. Funny...nothing you said was a help in any way. I don't have anyone on the Corvette Forum on my ignore list. Congrats...you are the first. Good luck with whatever you do for people.

 

I am not a "sheeple". I do not follow what other's do...I take my own path and prefer to lead...which is why I own my own business.

Excuse me for giving a "hoot" and I repair Corvettes for a living...and when I sense someone is going to do a repair..as you wrote: I swear, I am about ready to get the Dremel cutting wheel out and see if I can cut the dang door post off and get it open that way. A door post is cheap to replace. Not sure if I can get at it, though. makes me take notice. AND I can tell you that you do not know much if you think that a door post is cheaper than repairing it without cutting anything. And you have been doing "what" since 1963????

I have been doing Corvette repair and restoration for well over 20+ years. Yeah..Corvette repair can get some one "ticked-off"...but I have learned when I start to get "ticked"...I walk away from it. I have encountered more areas on a Corvette that would "**** off the Pope" than I can to remember. Try removing and installing the CCM on a 1990 to 1996 Corvette...or better yet... the air mix actuator on the heater box of a 1990. That is NO PICNIC. The list goes on and on.

Evidently you did not read the third paragraph in post #3 and the last paragraph in post #16.

It is amazing that it only took 2 posts to get "ignored" by you...YEP...that is a record all right. My "gut" is SPOT ON on this one.

Thanks.... I do it every day. I wish you the BEST...HONESTLY.

DUB