When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Last July, I ran over a buckled piece of concrete and cracked the frame...rather getting a new frame (like I wanted) the insurance company talked me into getting the crack welded...they said it would hold...well it held BUT the metal around the weld cracked!!!! Now I'm pushing insurance company to get me a NEW FRAME. The closest place to get it swapped is in Dallas...has anyone done anything with JB's Corvette Restoration in North Dallas? Also what type of frame should I get??? Tube, stock steel? I just want it to be safe. It's a "boulevard cruiser"/show car.
Hate to say it but the area in the picture hasn't had any work done to it recently. Looks as though this area might of been over looked the first time around.
Hate to say it but the area in the picture hasn't had any work done to it recently. Looks as though this area might of been over looked the first time around.
At first I thought the same thing...The initial repairs are just outside to left of the picture...
My BIGGEST concern is where else is the frame weak? I would REALLY hate to be driving on the interstate, doing 60-70mph and the frame snap, the wheels dig into the fiberglass and we FLIP and my wife & I are killed (the Vette is a Convertible)!! I looked into the cost of a new frame INSTALLED and found it to be doable on my policy...so that's the direction we will be going.
Wish me luck!! Will keep you posted.
Last edited by vetteguy75; Apr 3, 2014 at 12:54 AM.
Looks like it was a bad weld, possibly the metal was not cleaned up well beforehand so they ran the machine too hot. I would clean it up and re-weld it.
A new frame means basically taking the entire car apart, I wouldn't go there unless there was no choice. The odds that they would do it right and not jack 3 or 4 other things is way low.
Looks like it was a bad weld, possibly the metal was not cleaned up well beforehand so they ran the machine too hot. I would clean it up and re-weld it.
A new frame means basically taking the entire car apart, I wouldn't go there unless there was no choice. The odds that they would do it right and not jack 3 or 4 other things is way low.
I did a frame swap on a C3 once some years ago....takes about a week with about 1.5 guys working on it.....
It might have been a Monday frame. The welds seem to be sitting high up on the metal. Grind it out good and I would be looking for other bad spots. Something has to be flexing to make these cracks. You may want to jack up one wheel at a time. This will cause flex and you can find other bad areas.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The reason it cracked again is because that's a complete crap weld performed by someone who should be running a caulking gun - not a welding gun. There is no penetration, and there is complete lack of fusion at the toe of the weld. The weld should be ground out, the frame should be given a proper weld prep, and the welding should be done by a welder with Performance Qualifications meeting the requirements of AWS D1.1. If this is done, the weld and the frame will not re-crack.
Lars
Weld Certifier for Lockheed Martin Space Systems
Just out of curiosity, how did you discover this crack? Were you looking for one specifically? And do you have a picture of it with the other repair? Where is it on the frame? (sorry so many questions haha)
The reason it cracked again is because that's a complete crap weld performed by someone who should be running a caulking gun - not a welding gun. There is no penetration, and there is complete lack of fusion at the toe of the weld. The weld should be ground out, the frame should be given a proper weld prep, and the welding should be done by a welder with Performance Qualifications meeting the requirements of AWS D1.1. If this is done, the weld and the frame will not re-crack.
Lars
Weld Certifier for Lockheed Martin Space Systems
As a amateur welder I was going to ask the OP to get pictures of the other side if he could as it did not look like there was much penetration on that weld. Looks like it might have some but also a lot of slag just sitting on top.
Interesting... Mine was found when the brakes were being replaced and more of the frame became visible.... After the repair it drove like a real car... For fourteen years I thought it was supposed to "shake ,rattle and roll"..
The reason it cracked again is because that's a complete crap weld performed by someone who should be running a caulking gun - not a welding gun. There is no penetration, and there is complete lack of fusion at the toe of the weld. The weld should be ground out, the frame should be given a proper weld prep, and the welding should be done by a welder with Performance Qualifications meeting the requirements of AWS D1.1. If this is done, the weld and the frame will not re-crack.
Lars
Weld Certifier for Lockheed Martin Space Systems
I agree, not a good weld, maybe cooled to fast. Weld didn't eat either base metal. Get a good welder to reweld the entire area. No reason it can't be repaired.
Wow,that's an amazing insurance company if they'll flip out $10 to $15K
to replace your frame!Tell us who it is,they will get a ton of new clients off this forum!
I agree with Lars and the others,that appears to be a pretty crappy repair job,if it was done properly you wouldn't be at this point again.
Yup, do a search. Those lower A arm brackets are famous for cracking. Mine had a tiny crack in it and I welded it with the motor in the car. 6 months later, the same mount had about 4 cracks in it. Well I was swapping in a big block about a month later, so once I took the old motor out I cut out the old mount, bought a used mount with main underneath bracket still attached from a junked vette welded it in with gussets. All is good a year later. I also installed a spreader bar after that just to help the fronts rigidity as others have done.