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My brake lights stopped working (1968) and trying to figure out why. I have checked the fuse and it is good and I have also checked for power at the wires. When the pedal is all the way up I have power to the orange wire and not the white wire. When I push the pedal in I have no power at either wire. What is happening? Tried a generic switch with pigtails at the harness and still nothing.
My brake lights stopped working (1968) and trying to figure out why. I have checked the fuse and it is good and I have also checked for power at the wires. When the pedal is all the way up I have power to the orange wire and not the white wire. When I push the pedal in I have no power at either wire. What is happening? Tried a generic switch with pigtails at the harness and still nothing.
Sounds like a weak connection somewhere. Either at the fuse connections or the in the turn signal switch.
Try a test light at the orange wire to ground. See if it will power the light.
Ok it seems to be at the fuse box. When i wiggle the fuse around it lights and then goes out again. IS my fuse box going bad?
Chances are NO...if you touch the fuse and the brake lights work...I would bet that you have corrosion or some contaminant that is not allowing good 12 volt current flow. IF the terminals for your fuses are rusty looking...plan on having NUMEROUS electrical problems. These cars are know for water leaks at the cowl...and it effects the fuse panel over time. I have to clean so many fuse panels yearly it is not funny...and the FUSE PANEL is ALWAYS my starting point for electrical problems..ESPECIALLY if I peak at it and the fuse terminals are crappy looking. This is why having a voltmeter is better than test light.
Be MORE specific...when you wrote "gauges fluctuate/ jump" What gauges are you a referring to????....it is important.
Knowing that you have issues in your fuse panel now....I am betting that you have more issues that are related to the fuse panel again...but just on another fuse....this is why you need to be very specific and not so vague.
Does you AMP gauge work??? When the engine is running is the needle on the gauge going to the (+) side??? When the engine is off..WITH THE KEY ON...and you pull your headlight switch...does the needle in the AMP gauge go to the (-) side????
Sorry to break in on this for a question to DUB, what's the best way to clean a fuse box? take all the fuses out get a small wire brush and go to town? I think I need to do a bit of wiring cleaning along with grounds. I really don't have many issues but my flashers wont work and I haven't figured that one out yet, wiring leaves me like this
I've read a few post on here about what I'm about to ask but I'm still with a problem and no solutions yet... My tail lights stay on as if I were braking but when I push on my brakes nothing happens.. Does anyone know what I can do?
I'm sorry... I didn't read the entire thread, it's late and I have to get up early.. I'll check it tomorrow and see if all of us can figure it out.
Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
Sorry to break in on this for a question to DUB, what's the best way to clean a fuse box? take all the fuses out get a small wire brush and go to town? I think I need to do a bit of wiring cleaning along with grounds. I really don't have many issues but my flashers wont work and I haven't figured that one out yet, wiring leaves me like this
A fuse box with excessive corrosion is usually a sign of a leaking windshield frame, or a leak somewhere else in the car. I would make sure I have leaks under control.
I like to use a small wire wheel, (the kind with the wires on end not like a regular wire wheel, bottom wire wheel in the pic below) on a "Dremel" tool to clean the contacts... There are other ways to do this.. the small wire wheel seems to work best for me because you can get in the fuse contact area with ease.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Apr 8, 2014 at 11:25 PM.
I use a similar tubular wire brush like what Willcox has shown in a photo.
I will remove the fuse panel if I am not happy with what I see when cleaning the terminals...and YES...I am brave enough to remove the terminals and clean them with them out of the fuse panel itself. In some cases I replace the terminal with a new one. Usually if there are many terminals "in question" and having "other" problems...the time to try to save the fuse terminals ...along with many other "issues" due to some BOZO getting into the wiring...I suggest to the owner to replace the wiring and start fresh...because...I can not spend hours on a repair that could exceed the cost of replacing a wiring harness with a new one. I balance out the costs and end result.
I've read a few post on here about what I'm about to ask but I'm still with a problem and no solutions yet... My tail lights stay on as if I were braking but when I push on my brakes nothing happens.. Does anyone know what I can do?
You have to give A LOT more information.
What year is your Corvette???
What do you mean by "my taillights stay on"????
If you push your brake pedal...and the lights stay the same...you can have a brake switch that is either bad or not adjusted correctly....have you looked into this????
Disconnect your brake switch and see if the lights go out.
I've read a few post on here about what I'm about to ask but I'm still with a problem and no solutions yet... My tail lights stay on as if I were braking but when I push on my brakes nothing happens.. Does anyone know what I can do?
I've got to go with Dub on this one.. without a year posted it's kind of hard to offer you advice. I looked at your profile and there is no year shown there either. The schematic posted above is only good for two years 67 and 68. The 69 and newer can be found on my site under the tech pictures section.
Be MORE specific...when you wrote "gauges fluctuate/ jump" What gauges are you a referring to????....it is important.
Knowing that you have issues in your fuse panel now....I am betting that you have more issues that are related to the fuse panel again...but just on another fuse....this is why you need to be very specific and not so vague.
Does you AMP gauge work??? When the engine is running is the needle on the gauge going to the (+) side??? When the engine is off..WITH THE KEY ON...and you pull your headlight switch...does the needle in the AMP gauge go to the (-) side????
DUB
It is the center gauges (ampmeter, temp gauge, etc.). With the engine running yes the ampmeter goes to the positive for a little while then goes to 0 or sometimes negative. With the engine off key on the gauge doesn't really move but it is just below 0 on the negative side. As another note I do have all of the interior apart but have the headlight switch grounded and all other relays etc. in place. I don't want to put it back together until I have all the bugs out of it. Everything else works though fiber optics, headlights high and low, clearance, blinkers, stop lights, courtesy (with the dmmer switch, door ajar light. Still need to replace the door courtesy light switches.
I re-read this today.. and I did miss the year.. I must have seen it when I posted the picture though..
But this makes no sense.. the power to the brake lamp switch is on the orange wire which comes straight from the fuse panel. I wonder if there isn't corrosion in the fuse terminals.. That's about the only thing I can think of because if your switch was shorting out you would have blown the fuse.
When you lose power on the orange wire.. go to the fuse panel and test the left side of the fuse terminal for power.... if you have power on the left side then test the right hand side for power. If you have power on the right hand side then you should have power on the orange wire.