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Old Apr 12, 2014 | 05:36 PM
  #21  
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OK...lets get this post in line.

Your initial issue was with the brake lights...but you fixed that due to a fuse issue in the fuse panel....as you wrote in POST #6. Done with that.

Now is a fluctuating amp gauge.

If you engine is running and you have a (+) charge showing on you amp gauge...that is CORRECT.

While the engine is running...if you turn on your headlights...you will see the amp gauge drop a little BUT...should still be on the (+) side of the (0)...this is CORRECT.

NOW...with the engine running and you turn your turn signals on...and the needle of the amp gauge fluctuates a little from where it is WITHOUT the turn signals on...and drops a little when the turn signals come on ...and then goes back to the (+) side when the turn signal lights off...and then repeats itself...this is fine. This movement should be slight but noticeable.

NOW...if you needle has a mind of its own when the engine is running....WITH or WITHOUT anything being turned on...I would take a good look at the alternator or the wiring at the alternator...and going to the amp gauge...which if the terminals on the backside of the amp gauge are rusty and dirty...they need to be cleaned along with the terminals that are in the wire harness connector that clip onto the amp gauge. These terminals in the connector may need to be removed and cleaned and also checked to make sure that they garb onto the spade terminals on the amp gauge with good grip...which aids in making a good contact. I have run into terminals that look fine but will literally fall off due to not gripping onto the spade end with good grip.

DUB
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 10:38 AM
  #22  
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I have checked the fuse box and the terminals are clean but the problem I see is that the terminals on the right side are loose. It looks like they are held in by rivets. How do I fix the lose terminals on the outgoing side of the fuses?
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 05:12 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 68Thunder427
I have checked the fuse box and the terminals are clean but the problem I see is that the terminals on the right side are loose. It looks like they are held in by rivets. How do I fix the lose terminals on the outgoing side of the fuses?
The fuse terminals clip in place and should not be held in with rivets.

A photo from you would be very helpful.

The fuse terminals can be a bit loose....but not excessively loose.

With you touching the fuse and your brake light work...I would have to bet that it is more of a tension issue...or the terminal for the fuse has been pried on and is slightly distorted...thus not making good contact.

I ASSUME that the amp gauge is correct...because you did not comment on that.

DUB
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:12 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DUB
The fuse terminals clip in place and should not be held in with rivets.

A photo from you would be very helpful.

The fuse terminals can be a bit loose....but not excessively loose.

With you touching the fuse and your brake light work...I would have to bet that it is more of a tension issue...or the terminal for the fuse has been pried on and is slightly distorted...thus not making good contact.

I ASSUME that the amp gauge is correct...because you did not comment on that.

DUB
I will see if I can get a good picture (we all know it is a big PIA to even get to the fuse box). Everything on the car is working and I also have noticed that the instrument light fuse is lose and causes it to lose power here and there also. Need to figure out how to tighten up the clips or replace them. BTW I hate electrical because it can be so unpredictable.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:23 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 68Thunder427
I will see if I can get a good picture (we all know it is a big PIA to even get to the fuse box). Everything on the car is working and I also have noticed that the instrument light fuse is lose and causes it to lose power here and there also. Need to figure out how to tighten up the clips or replace them. BTW I hate electrical because it can be so unpredictable.
You are aware that the instrument light fuse ONLY gets power to it when the headlight switch is pulled. Thought I would mention it.

Do you have a hand held voltmeter so when working on your electrical issues...you can actually read the values of circuits???? IF NOT...it would be in your best interest to buy one.

I can honestly relate to your dislike in electrical issues. But...now...actually....I LOVE electrical issues..because they are so PREDICTABLE. Either it works or it does not...and in a intermittent is always a challenge. So understanding the circuit...and flow of current...the amount of amps the system is requiring, etc.....most electrical issues can be found rather easily. A few "homemade" test tools and fixtures will do wonders.

Please do not get discouraged.....and try not to fight it....if you feel you are fighting a loosing battle...you are not. Once you understand the basics...and your car is really basic versus a 1996 with computers and what-have you...you will achieve success. And a 1996 electrical issue is still easy due to the system is still basically the same...just more stuff to test and check.

It is similar to how when we all began to read...we read "See Spot run"...and now...look at what you can read.

If you or anybody needs some help in understanding how to check, test some electrical issues...PM me...and I will give you my number and you can call me...because honestly...I refuse to type out all what will need to be discussed. And if anyone takes me up on this....make sure YOU WANT TO KNOW...because I hate wasting my time on someone who has already "thrown in the towel" before they call...and I hear a bunch of whining. I can not fix or diagnose ALL issues over the phone...but I am willing to try to understand a problem and if it can...I will do ALL I can to help.

DUB
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