frame repair direction
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande Arizona
frame repair direction
Hi guys
I just dropped in from the C6 group. I haven't had my C3 long and the more I look the worse it gets. Love is blind. I found some serious rust at the #3 point just ahead of the drivers rear wheel. Is there a tutorial for repairs. Is that transition doable or is a new rear section advisable. Is there a serial/VIN number on the frame and if so where. The car has no original parts so it has no collectors value its just lust that hooked me
I just dropped in from the C6 group. I haven't had my C3 long and the more I look the worse it gets. Love is blind. I found some serious rust at the #3 point just ahead of the drivers rear wheel. Is there a tutorial for repairs. Is that transition doable or is a new rear section advisable. Is there a serial/VIN number on the frame and if so where. The car has no original parts so it has no collectors value its just lust that hooked me
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,555
Likes: 7,006
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Don't get discouraged! Repair the easier rusted areas first to build some confidence.
Being a rookie, I've viewed some threads that show how to removed weakened frame pieces and install/weld aftermarket frame sections.
If your wallet is thick and most of the frame is thin....buy a decent frame.
Post pics of your C3 and also of the frame sections in question......expert members can give you some great advice.
Being a rookie, I've viewed some threads that show how to removed weakened frame pieces and install/weld aftermarket frame sections.
If your wallet is thick and most of the frame is thin....buy a decent frame.
Post pics of your C3 and also of the frame sections in question......expert members can give you some great advice.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,503
Likes: 33
From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
It can be a fun challenge to build a frame and suspension to mount your body shell on. I'm trying that with a pair of 77's I acquired. A good body on a bad frame and a bad body on a good frame. Mix and match to make one great car and then sell the leftovers. Just mild resto-mod stuff to create a fun weekend driver. I have my 80 to drive any time I want so the 77 project can take as long as it takes. Crafting one to make it your own can be very satisfying if you have patience.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande Arizona
old school car guy. first old vette
Don't get discouraged! Repair the easier rusted areas first to build some confidence.
Being a rookie, I've viewed some threads that show how to removed weakened frame pieces and install/weld aftermarket frame sections.
If your wallet is thick and most of the frame is thin....buy a decent frame.
Post pics of your C3 and also of the frame sections in question......expert members can give you some great advice.
Being a rookie, I've viewed some threads that show how to removed weakened frame pieces and install/weld aftermarket frame sections.
If your wallet is thick and most of the frame is thin....buy a decent frame.
Post pics of your C3 and also of the frame sections in question......expert members can give you some great advice.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,555
Likes: 7,006
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
On the left side of the screen is a PARTS list of Vendors....I have seen aftermarket frame parts on their websites.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
A VIN derivitive is stamped on the top of the frame rail, driver's side, just in front of #4 body mount.
There is also a stamp on the top of the frame rail about where your left hip would be if you were sitting in the car.
There is also a stamp on the top of the frame rail about where your left hip would be if you were sitting in the car.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Most big venders carry patch sections but in most cases, just cut and weld in small areas is the easiest way to go!
Like everyone else said, numbers don't match, go crazy with it! You don't have to worry about exhaust emissions or motor restrictions so enjoy! Get rid of that low compression taxi motor and get some power.
Like everyone else said, numbers don't match, go crazy with it! You don't have to worry about exhaust emissions or motor restrictions so enjoy! Get rid of that low compression taxi motor and get some power.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande Arizona
restrooms it is!
Thanks for the info guys. I want to verify the frame vin BEFORE I spend another dime.
as for the build, I knew the car was not all original and I have lots of left over parts from other car builds
the diff is supposed to be a 4.11. Manual steer and man brakes. YIKES. My trans will be Muncie 4 or TKO 5 (gears to low for TKO?)
400 auto?
I HAVE ENGINES. I want a fun car so the mill will be the hot ticket. Any combination of
454, 396, a 427? Then for sbc 406, 377, 340, 327, or lastly I have a headless 283. I could also rob the LS2 out of the C6, but there would be some splainin to do
as for the build, I knew the car was not all original and I have lots of left over parts from other car builds
the diff is supposed to be a 4.11. Manual steer and man brakes. YIKES. My trans will be Muncie 4 or TKO 5 (gears to low for TKO?)
400 auto?
I HAVE ENGINES. I want a fun car so the mill will be the hot ticket. Any combination of
454, 396, a 427? Then for sbc 406, 377, 340, 327, or lastly I have a headless 283. I could also rob the LS2 out of the C6, but there would be some splainin to do
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Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande Arizona
A pillar tag match
while removing interior pieces the vin tag came off. seeing how the rust was misrepresented, I want to verify as much as possible before any more money is spent. the seller did kick back some cash when confronted with facts. he did have a valid title, a state trooper was sent out to verify the vin because of a minor alphanumeric glitch on the original title, it cleared and transferred to my name. I may want to go back to convertible. the car is seriously rusted, as the interior screws were rusted in place. I still love the car
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
This is a decision only you can make...and that is where.... HOW MUCH LOVE do you have for this car. Because like many things in life that we LOVE...they can eat at your time and WALLET at the same time....and sometimes...you do not get back what you think you should for all the time and money spent on something that you LOVE.
There is always a point where the decision has to be made to STOP the hemorrhaging.
Not writing that it is not worth it...but it depends on the extent of the rust damage.
DUB
There is always a point where the decision has to be made to STOP the hemorrhaging.
Not writing that it is not worth it...but it depends on the extent of the rust damage.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
while removing interior pieces the vin tag came off. seeing how the rust was misrepresented, I want to verify as much as possible before any more money is spent. the seller did kick back some cash when confronted with facts. he did have a valid title, a state trooper was sent out to verify the vin because of a minor alphanumeric glitch on the original title, it cleared and transferred to my name. I may want to go back to convertible. the car is seriously rusted, as the interior screws were rusted in place. I still love the car
If the frame is so rusted that it is safely too thin in most spots, I wouldn't hesitate to change it and modify the few areas that are different in a 68. Body probably needs to be separated anyway.
Sounds like a fun car.
Just curious though, did the state trooper inspect the VIN plate for the title transfer before or after it had fallen off?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,793
Likes: 58
From: God's Country The Old Dominion
Hi guys
I just dropped in from the C6 group. I haven't had my C3 long and the more I look the worse it gets. Love is blind. I found some serious rust at the #3 point just ahead of the drivers rear wheel. Is there a tutorial for repairs. Is that transition doable or is a new rear section advisable. Is there a serial/VIN number on the frame and if so where. The car has no original parts so it has no collectors value its just lust that hooked me
I just dropped in from the C6 group. I haven't had my C3 long and the more I look the worse it gets. Love is blind. I found some serious rust at the #3 point just ahead of the drivers rear wheel. Is there a tutorial for repairs. Is that transition doable or is a new rear section advisable. Is there a serial/VIN number on the frame and if so where. The car has no original parts so it has no collectors value its just lust that hooked me
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande Arizona
dont knowif trooper noticed
What I was trying to convey was that the derivative numbers on the frame don't mean much as far as value or resale on a car modified as much as yours. While it certainly will feed your curiosity (if still readable), the only time it matters is if the derivatives show the frame came from a stolen car. This was the only intent of the hidden numbers anyway.
If the frame is so rusted that it is safely too thin in most spots, I wouldn't hesitate to change it and modify the few areas that are different in a 68. Body probably needs to be separated anyway.
Sounds like a fun car.
Just curious though, did the state trooper inspect the VIN plate for the title transfer before or after it had fallen off?
If the frame is so rusted that it is safely too thin in most spots, I wouldn't hesitate to change it and modify the few areas that are different in a 68. Body probably needs to be separated anyway.
Sounds like a fun car.
Just curious though, did the state trooper inspect the VIN plate for the title transfer before or after it had fallen off?
the tag came off as I unscrewed the A pillar pads and forced them off. The tag was held in place by only one rivet to the left of the vin.
The rust issue doesn't seem too bad but the seat slides, seat reinforcements and some of the trim anchor points are shot. the frame looks ok with the exception of that #3 point, but the battery is just above it. the front end is an aftermarket tilt with no headlight cutouts, it is in very good shape including the metal reinforcement pivot arms.
the control arms and steering look good as well as the rear suspension parts. I knew this was NOT a collector car and the price was good. the car drives, turns and stops. lights, signals also work. I didn't notice the frame rust until I removed the side pipes. that's where I stopped. I need to clear out a spot to lift off the body
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,451
Likes: 326
From: Indy Indiana
if you are rusted out in some places, it is going to be thin in other places. find you a good complete no rust frame and just replace it all vs. spot repairs and don't rely on the skill of the welder.
If I am a buyer and I see spot repairs, I run. I know it is just a patch and that the seller merely patched one spot of a probable entire frame problem.
If I am a buyer and I see spot repairs, I run. I know it is just a patch and that the seller merely patched one spot of a probable entire frame problem.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 276
Likes: 31
From: Brant County Ontario
Joewill is right - if it's rusted out here it's probably thin there.
I'm doing this RIGHT NOW on a '69 frame to go under my '73:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...post1586478265
Yes- it's possible to repair the area next to the kick-up - but I wouldn't DREAM of doing this body-on. You really need to be able to inspect the entire frame.
There's always more weak metal where it's rusted through.
On mine, anywhere I find thin metal I replace. I'm also treating both sides - inside and out - so it should last quite a long time once I'm done.
I'm doing this RIGHT NOW on a '69 frame to go under my '73:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...post1586478265
Yes- it's possible to repair the area next to the kick-up - but I wouldn't DREAM of doing this body-on. You really need to be able to inspect the entire frame.
There's always more weak metal where it's rusted through.
On mine, anywhere I find thin metal I replace. I'm also treating both sides - inside and out - so it should last quite a long time once I'm done.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,713
Likes: 550
From: Seattle Washington
Rust is impossible to predict. I work in the marine industry so we deal with it all the time. It could be that a 6" section of the frame is rusted out and the rest of it is just fine. Or the whole thing might evenly be rusted. Rust works on an 8 to 1 ratio. In other words if the rust is 1" thick then only 1/8" of the original plate is gone. Of coarse if some body is chipping it off every couple of years this means nothing. If there is a Hole all the way threw then its all gone, but if your in doubt try sticking an ice pick threw in the worst looking places. Another option is to buy a used frame form the west coast. We don't have the rusting issues that happens else ware and because of this they don't sell for all that much out here either.