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Steering knuckle

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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 08:30 PM
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Default Steering knuckle

Ok,I am working on my 79, trying to get the steering knuckle off. The car is on jack stands and I have taken the weight off the side of the suspension that I am working on. The nuts are off the bottom of the ball joints, and the book says I should tap on the shoulder of the knuckle till it drops off the car. Any ideas on what to do if it doesn't drop off the car, even after beating the crap out of it for a few hours?

Zorro
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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Best if you can use a small puller to push the stud out of the spindle, and tap it with a small hammer when you have used the screw to apply pressure to the stud. A "pickle fork" can also be used, but it can damage the ball joint. Not an issue if you are replacing the ball joint.
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by gcusmano74
Best if you can use a small puller to push the stud out of the spindle, and tap it with a small hammer when you have used the screw to apply pressure to the stud. A "pickle fork" can also be used, but it can damage the ball joint. Not an issue if you are replacing the ball joint.
I am not trying to remove the spindle from the knuckle. I am trying to remove the knuckle from the car. I am not aware of any studs involed.
If I am not understanding please explane.

Zorro
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 07:41 AM
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I think there is a terminology problem here. Are you trying to remove the tie rod end that attaches to the steering arm at the wheel, or the ball joint that connects the spindle to the control arms. A picture would help.

I am just worried that you are speaking of ball joints. If you removed the nuts from the bottom of the ball joints, and one breaks loose without the lower control arm being controlled with a jack or other safety measure, the spring is going to launch out of there like a missile. Please let us know exactly what you are doing.

Please be safe...

John
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 09:47 AM
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Jeez! He's not trying to remove the spindle/ball joints without blocking the spring!??
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 10:44 AM
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a pickle fork and a big hammer are your friends
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 11:13 AM
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First off I would put the bolts back on the ball joint, if that is what you have taken off. They should stay until to keep the spring from coming out if the ball joint lets go.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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As I said in the original post I have taken the weight off the side of the suspension I am working on. I also left the nuts loosely on the bottom of the ball joints as not to catch the spring with my face! I had been trying to avoid using the pickle fork because the ball joints had been in good shape and I have never had the boots survive the PF. This morning I gave up and used the PF, it worked fine on the lower but not the upper joint. It was not till I cut the boot off the upper that I could see the fork was hitting the frame behind the joint. Without the boot and with the lower knuckle free I used a gear puller (as suggested above) I tightened the crap out of puller as much as I could with a long handled box end and then hit the knuckle with a small sledge. After only twenty some hours the F ing knuckle is off the car. Unfortunately so are what's left of my ball joints. This is Seattle, outside for once, the sky is blue and it is about 70 degrees and I have a three wheeled Corvette! But what the hey, it's still a vette.

Zorro
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 10:09 AM
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Ball joints are not that expensive (considering the life expense of the car); replace them just to be safe. You DON'T want to button it up with your existing joints, only to have them go bad in a few weeks/months.

If you replace them, don't go with the lowest priced 'junk'. Get a good name brand joint.
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