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Old May 6, 2014 | 03:12 AM
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Default Vacuum Storage Canister

I tried to find a thread that relates to the Vacuum Storage Canister, but I did not find anything except something generic.

I would understand if my arguments are correct, because here in Italy you do not have a clear idea of the operation of this device.

Regarding my Vette of 80 exists only a Vacuum Canister and it is this:


By my reasoning, this device is used when you turn off the car, ie a reserve to allow the headlights to quit, and have no way to change the direction of the air inside the vehicle.

Many here in Italy say you need to have more depression when the engine is running, but I do not think so!

In my Vette, the can of beans is not connected to anything, in fact when I turn off the engine does not shut the headlights.

I would like to restore the links, only through AIM that you do not understand!

Someone would have some wiring diagram?
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Old May 6, 2014 | 07:12 AM
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Like you said it allows you to close the headlights after engine shutdown.
Also with the engine running it acts as a buffer. It has no effect on how the engine is running (providing it doesn't leak).
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Old May 6, 2014 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Danish Shark
Like you said it allows you to close the headlights after engine shutdown.
Also with the engine running it acts as a buffer. It has no effect on how the engine is running (providing it doesn't leak).
excellent! it's like I thought!
you happen to have patterns that make me understand the connections?
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Old May 6, 2014 | 08:44 AM
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That vacuum reservoir does more than that. While driving the car, that can maintains a high level of vacuum that is accessible by the various systems in the car (HVAC control, cruise control, headlights, emissions controls) even though the engine is not making adequate vacuum at the time [WOT or high throttle required].

I do not have an AIM for your car's model year; but I can tell you that the vacuum supply for that can comes directly from the intake manifold and it travels through a small filter and a one-way check valve before it gets to the can. The check valve is what maintains strong vacuum, and it needs to be in that 'feed' line. The other fittings on that can are to distribute vacuum to systems requiring vacuum.

One other thing: Your power brake booster also requires vacuum. But it should be getting its supply directly from the baseplate of your carburetor, and should not have any other vacuum connections combined with it.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RobyC3
...you happen to have patterns that make me understand the connections?...
Purchase the 1980 assembly instruction manual (AIM); it shows the installation of the vacuum reserve tank and the hose connections.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 01:46 PM
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http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...te/vachose.jpg


Try this from Willcox I believe...

Think he has AIM but can't understand it...

Last edited by hereigo; May 6, 2014 at 01:48 PM.
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Old May 7, 2014 | 08:57 AM
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The AIM is the first thing I bought, just can not seem to understand the connections
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Old May 7, 2014 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by hereigo
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...te/vachose.jpg


Try this from Willcox I believe...

Think he has AIM but can't understand it...
Interesting!
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Old May 7, 2014 | 09:28 AM
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Yes, Willcox does a great job simplifying and coloring these types of schematics...

Jerry
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Old May 7, 2014 | 11:44 AM
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For the case there is also a table of abbreviations for transcoding Willcox?
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Old May 7, 2014 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
That vacuum reservoir does more than that. While driving the car, that can maintains a high level of vacuum that is accessible by the various systems in the car (HVAC control, cruise control, headlights, emissions controls) even though the engine is not making adequate vacuum at the time [WOT or high throttle required].

One other thing: Your power brake booster also requires vacuum. But it should be getting its supply directly from the baseplate of your carburetor, and should not have any other vacuum connections combined with it.

The vacuum can does nothing except store a vacuum for a one time depression or raising of the headlights. That's it. Nothing else.

You can completely remove it and it won't affect anything.


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Old May 8, 2014 | 02:33 AM
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commander47 interesting!
It seemed to me that he understood that the vacuum storage canister serve to close the lights and move the direction of the air inside the car when the engine has been turned off recently.

Is there anyone who has ever tried to do this:
1) With the engine running open the headlights
2) Turn off the engine
3) close the headlights
In my headlights remain open. Just put in motion close
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Old May 8, 2014 | 03:36 AM
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Yes roby, I can have my headlights on, turn the engine off, and then shut off the lights... They will go down, but not with the same amount of force as when the engine is running... Occasionally one light may remain slightly raised by about 1/2 an inch... But typically they both close fully... Even with the engine turned off...

Was that your question?
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Old May 8, 2014 | 05:09 AM
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In my case, if I turn off the engine with the headlights open and then close them ... do not close!
I thought that this problem stemmed from the vacuum canister that was not connected
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Old May 8, 2014 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RobyC3
In my case, if I turn off the engine with the headlights open and then close them ... do not close!
I thought that this problem stemmed from the vacuum canister that was not connected


You are correct.

All the canister does is store a vacuum with enough force to lower the lights one time with the engine off.

In the diagram below, you can see where the vacuum comes off the manifold, goes through a ONE WAY valve that allows vacuum to be pulled into the manifold.

Vacuum is then sent to a simple splitter. One side goes to the switch for the light and the manual pull down under the middle of the dash.
The pull down is intended to be used if your light switch breaks and will not raise or lower the lights.

The other side of the splitter goes to the storage can.

When the motor is shut off, the one way valve closes and traps a small vacuum in the can. You can then turn off your lights and they will go down because of the source in the can.

If you turn on/off the lights with the car running, they will go up/down with the normal vacuum.

If you have a small leak somewhere, the lights may still work with the motor running, but will be slow, and not move together, and may not close or open all the way.

As the leak gets worse they won't work at all.

Any leak will cause the canister to not hold enough vacuum to work the lights properly with the motor off.

IF you remove the canister the lights will only work with the motor running. Run another splitter to provide vacuum to the relays.

In your picture of the can in the original post, the hose from the vacuum source (splitter) attaches to the single connection on the bottom of your picture. The other two go to the light relays. Doesn't matter which one.


Last edited by commander_47; May 8, 2014 at 07:01 PM.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 02:05 PM
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When I bought my vette, the PO said the headlights would never go down... He spent $1000 bucks at a shop having them fixed up, and a month later they did the same thing... He called it the Achilles heel of the corevettes and I would grow to hate them... Lol

So, every time I turned off the lights I would hear a hiss under the dash... Figured it was a vacuum line that had unplugged or rotted out... Started to investigate the hiss under the dash and noticed that little plunger... Didn't know what it did at the time so I pushed it in, and saw the vacuum lines running to it ... Got a huge smile on my face, and fired up the car... Headlights worked flawlessly! Lol.

The PO was not mechanically inclined, and must've pulled the 'emergency vacuum release ' plunger down, and never pushed it back up... THATS all it took for me to get my lights to function properly... Lol.

So... Track down any vacuum leaks, properly hook up the canister, and see what results you get... Could be bubba just didn't understand the system and started unplugging things to get his lights to function properly with the car running... ;-)
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Old May 8, 2014 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FireballXL5
When I bought my vette, the PO said the headlights would never go down... He spent $1000 bucks at a shop having them fixed up, and a month later they did the same thing... He called it the Achilles heel of the corevettes and I would grow to hate them... Lol

So, every time I turned off the lights I would hear a hiss under the dash... Figured it was a vacuum line that had unplugged or rotted out... Started to investigate the hiss under the dash and noticed that little plunger... Didn't know what it did at the time so I pushed it in, and saw the vacuum lines running to it ... Got a huge smile on my face, and fired up the car... Headlights worked flawlessly! Lol.

The PO was not mechanically inclined, and must've pulled the 'emergency vacuum release ' plunger down, and never pushed it back up... THATS all it took for me to get my lights to function properly... Lol.

So... Track down any vacuum leaks, properly hook up the canister, and see what results you get... Could be bubba just didn't understand the system and started unplugging things to get his lights to function properly with the car running... ;-)
What the headlight switch does is activate the relays which direct which way the vacuum goes; either push/pull.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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The 'pull down switch' in the pic above CREATES a vacuum leak so that the headlights are forced to go up/stay up... That's what I was referring to... Mine is located on the steering column trim directly below the column... Creates a nasty hiss too... Lol
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Old May 15, 2014 | 04:59 AM
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I have a doubt!
Maybe it makes no sense but I tell you ...
This can of beans could have to do with the cruise control? I have never worked ... maybe because the vacuum canister is disconnected?
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Old May 15, 2014 | 05:35 AM
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My cruise was completely disconnected by the PO... So I don't have that to compare... But any of the vacuum lines that are disconnected AND allowing a vacuum leak, could be the source of a lot of your problems.. If it's been completely bypassed/disconnected like mine... Then everything else still connected can function properly..
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