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Off the Scale Compression Pressure Values?

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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 04:49 AM
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Default Off the Scale Compression Pressure Values?

So recently I was putting in a new set of spark plugs in my supposedly highly original/low mileage '70 LS5 (nominal CR 10.25). And, while I was at it, I also decided to perform a compression test on this engine, of which I have practically no knowledge of the mechanical state it is in... (And yes, I am aware of the fact that one can only draw limited conclusions from a compression test alone - but one can at least check for consistency between cylinders, I thought).
Before I get to the results, I have to mention one thing: The test wasn't precisely done 'by the book' in that 1) the engine was cold, and 2) no accessory belts were present (was replacing those, too; and I also took pity on the still original starting motor ).

Now, what I got was this: (cyl. # 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8) 205-205-219-201-207-200-205-213 psi...

Now, I think I look pretty good in the 'consistency' department.

BUT, what about these absolute values??? It took me a while to find 'authoritative' numbers of what to expect - and finally found something in the '70 CSM: 160 psi... Can anyone make sense of why I'm at least 25% ABOVE that?

(And BTW, the first thing I checked was whether the pressure gauge was malfunctioning by checking it against a known pressure source (10 bar/145 psi): It was spot on...)
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 08:10 AM
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Here's a bump for ou as I'm interested in the answer as well.

One thought is you might have gap less rings. I had these on my stroker (before it blew up ) and the compression test readings were higher than I would have expected for the compression ratio.
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 08:50 AM
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Those numbers sound similar to what I got when I checked the compression on my 70 LS5, rebuilt. Consistency is what's most important.
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 09:06 AM
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Does it appear that the heads have ever been removed? I ask because my '70 350cu.in. replacement engine has different heads installed by the previous owner. Also, on my own 350SBC in my '34 truck, I installed .030" thick head gaskets after removing the .055" thick "late model" headgaskets.

Keep us updated....and be glad of good compression readings.
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 10:07 AM
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what cam is in the engine ? is the cam installed advanced ?
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 10:22 AM
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That's not out of line. My '71 LS5 is modified with forged domed pistons and has a measured 10.15:1 CR. With a larger-than-factory cam it cranks 200 PSI.

Your true CR is probably less than 10.25:1 (that was the blueprint spec, seldom achieved by the factory). Couple that with a smaller cam (which increases cranking pressure) and your results are as expected.

160 PSI sounds like what I'd expect out of a later motor with 8.5:1-9:1 CR.
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 10:59 AM
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Static compression combined with cam timing (overlap, intake valve closing point) determine compression readings. Looks like your likely at the upper limit to run pump fuel. All readings within 10% is excellent.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 04:25 AM
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@all,

thanks for the input!

What I take away from this discussion is,
  1. No one has pointed out an obvious (stated in or implied from my OP) deficiency in my test setup/procedure.
  2. While the absolute values measured seem very high, they are not impossibly so.
  3. While several of you pointed to possible modifications done to the engine, this remains guesswork, since I know exactly nothing of what might have been done to it in the past.

So, until further evidence surfaces, I'd like to further delude myself into thinking that I'm the lucky owner of an extremely low mileage car powered by a very low wear original engine...
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by QuRace
@all,

thanks for the input!

What I take away from this discussion is,
  1. No one has pointed out an obvious (stated in or implied from my OP) deficiency in my test setup/procedure.
  2. While the absolute values measured seem very high, they are not impossibly so.
  3. While several of you pointed to possible modifications done to the engine, this remains guesswork, since I know exactly nothing of what might have been done to it in the past.

So, until further evidence surfaces, I'd like to further delude myself into thinking that I'm the lucky owner of an extremely low mileage car powered by a very low wear original engine...
No problem Dr. House..........Enjoy Life!
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 08:37 AM
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much of a compression test has to do with the cam overlap. it appears that you have a low very torquey cam with some smaller chambered heads. if you can still run that on pump gas, then rock it.

im sure it makes for a very good stop light car. -as in taking off on the green
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 81vettehelp
im sure it makes for a very good stop light car. -as in taking off on the green
Well, actually it doesn't (yet )... There are still other gremlins to slay.

The last one I found was an accelerator cable stud mounted in the upper/wrong (= "truck") hole on the lever - which made the secondaries open only half way. Had me driving around practically on the idle circuit for as long as I've had the car - which means two years . Live and learn.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 81vettehelp
much of a compression test has to do with the cam overlap. it appears that you have a low very torquey cam with some smaller chambered heads. if you can still run that on pump gas, then rock it.
I'm running original heads which are small chamber. A machine shop, back in the mid 80's talked me into buying pistons which lower the compression to deal with pump gas. My compression ratio is something like 9.6 to 1. I verified by measuring volumes. Unfortunately I have not been able to find specs for the cam I had installed, too many years ago. The compression numbers I got were very similar to what the OP posted. A local Corvette shop checked the compression again as part of a tune up, numbers again were similar, way above what the book states.

Does this suggest the cam may be suitable for only low RPM torque, robbed the high end? Wondering what I may deduce from the compression readings being as high as they are. The vacuum I get is lower than stock. No vacuum leaks, appears to be either timing related or cam.

Originally Posted by QuRace
Well, actually it doesn't (yet )... There are still other gremlins to slay.

The last one I found was an accelerator cable stud mounted in the upper/wrong (= "truck") hole on the lever - which made the secondaries open only half way. Had me driving around practically on the idle circuit for as long as I've had the car - which means two years . Live and learn.
Interesting. I may need to check mine. I think it's opening all the way, need to check.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BBCorv70
Interesting. I may need to check mine. I think it's opening all the way, need to check.
... And don't do it just by pulling on the lever on the carb - do it by depressing the accelerator pedal. Big difference if the pedal is blocked by the floor mat... (twin gremlin to the accel cable stud mounting thingy ).
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BBCorv70
Those numbers sound similar to what I got when I checked the compression on my 70 LS5, rebuilt. Consistency is what's most important.



But a leakdown test can tell you more.
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by QuRace
Well, actually it doesn't (yet )... There are still other gremlins to slay.

The last one I found was an accelerator cable stud mounted in the upper/wrong (= "truck") hole on the lever - which made the secondaries open only half way. Had me driving around practically on the idle circuit for as long as I've had the car - which means two years . Live and learn.
Here is an excellent article that does a pretty good job of explaining all the voodoo surrounding compression. Enjoy!

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...o/viewall.html

Here is a key phrase, copied from the article, that pertains to the original subject of this thread:

"If the cylinders are sealing up well, I look for 190 psi as a lower limit with preferably 200 psi as a target when using 93-octane fuel."

Scott
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
Here is an excellent article that does a pretty good job of explaining all the voodoo surrounding compression. Enjoy!

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...o/viewall.html

Here is a key phrase, copied from the article, that pertains to the original subject of this thread:

"If the cylinders are sealing up well, I look for 190 psi as a lower limit with preferably 200 psi as a target when using 93-octane fuel."

Scott
Interesting read - thank you!

(But how much of this, especially the numbers given, can be transferred to a 44 year old engine in an essentially unknown condition remains an open question, unfortunately...)
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 08:18 AM
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also take into account the accuracy of your compression gauge.. try another one and you may only get 185 across all the cyls. but I agree, the fact that you are all close together like that is encouraging.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by joewill
also take into account the accuracy of your compression gauge.. try another one and you may only get 185 across all the cyls. but I agree, the fact that you are all close together like that is encouraging.
As stated im my OP I DID check the gauge - albeit at 145 psi (highest "known" pressure available); it was spot on there, and I don't think the gauge is THAT non-linear, since the 200 psi range is still well below full scale.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by QuRace
As stated im my OP I DID check the gauge - albeit at 145 psi (highest "known" pressure available); it was spot on there, and I don't think the gauge is THAT non-linear, since the 200 psi range is still well below full scale.
I got readings much like yours. So did a local Corvette shop when they checked my car. The readings are probably correct.
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 05:53 PM
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That sure does seem like an awful lot of compression for a 10.25:1 CR engine. I'm not all that familiar with LS5s, are the cam specs fairly mild?

Scott
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