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I just bought a 68 vert and I'm interested in updating the suspension for wider rims and tires and better handling ride
interested in hearing about the upgrade to the composite rear leaf spring, best place to buy it, recommendations on spring rates (I'm upgrading from a SB to a BB)
is there any way to graft c4 or c5 control arms up front? I know newmans makes a chassis update and SRIII but my frame is nice and I want to keep it. are there direct bolt on control arms and spindle/break pacakge that work just as welll and don't involve as much mod
I heard of someone making "built up" alum welding control arms that are bolt in but I'm not remembering who makes them
anyone using the "shark attack" rear belcrank inboard coil overs. look pretty cool but pricey!!
looking just to have a better handling light vette. the big block adds alot of weight (do have alum heads) and I want to be able to plant the power (565 hp, 530 torq)
might even put a solid rear and 4 link in it to hook it all up! I have a c5 and a c4 for my twisty duty, I want this one to hook and book!
I just bought a 68 vert and I'm interested in updating the suspension for wider rims and tires and better handling ride
interested in hearing about the upgrade to the composite rear leaf spring, best place to buy it, recommendations on spring rates (I'm upgrading from a SB to a BB)
is there any way to graft c4 or c5 control arms up front? I know newmans makes a chassis update and SRIII but my frame is nice and I want to keep it. are there direct bolt on control arms and spindle/break pacakge that work just as welll and don't involve as much mod
I heard of someone making "built up" alum welding control arms that are bolt in but I'm not remembering who makes them
anyone using the "shark attack" rear belcrank inboard coil overs. look pretty cool but pricey!!
looking just to have a better handling light vette. the big block adds alot of weight (do have alum heads) and I want to be able to plant the power (565 hp, 530 torq)
might even put a solid rear and 4 link in it to hook it all up! I have a c5 and a c4 for my twisty duty, I want this one to hook and book!
Mine has similar power figures to yours (528hp/565ftlbs) the only chassis changes I have made are 285/40/18" rubber on rear and 255/45/18" on front end. Not enough room for rear sway bar so that was canned. Car is a '68 coupe - I mothballed the 427/390 and swapped-in a stroker 489. With ally heads it isn't that much heavier than a iron small block so weight balance front/rear imho isn't spoilt. Mine came with the F41 slalom suspension option which although still a bit 'floaty' on the front end for our European tastes it does mean that 'off the line' weight transfer front to rear works well in terms of better traction. Whilst still less than perfect for the twisty stuff the F41 suspension with the low profile rubber does give a good comprimise re. the vastly improved cornering power and the alternative of me swapping-in the Koni's I have sitting on the shelf and the much noiser ride that will happen with big diameter low profiles. There is much you can do with the C3 in terms of improved handling if you want to - or - leave things as they are and just use the additional HP to just power your way though all the turns and bends.
Last edited by roscobbc; Jun 14, 2014 at 12:07 PM.
The bigblock with alu-heads does not add "a lot of weight" compared to a full iron smallblock.
Solid rear..? Du you mean that you are planning on relacing the Vettes rear axle with a 9" or a 12-bolt or similar piece..?
And at the same time get "better handling" out of the car..?
Are you intending this to be a street / strip car? The F41 suspension set up was a 15/16" front sway bar 550 lb coil springs and the rear was a 7 leaf 196 lb mono leaf with 9/16" sway bar. I believe the composite spring is 320 lb.There is also a 4 point aftermarket kit called a Drag link you can add to make it closer to a solid axle. Depending on what BB you go with it may or may not be possible to add a spreader bar (without PS and have to convert to electric fan) between the upper control arm towers which seems to be the better option instead of changing control arms and others have fabricated there own.
Last edited by 68Thunder427; Jun 15, 2014 at 12:46 AM.