VettePower

Actually this is a reply Lars sent to me in am email yesterday. Lars has helped me from day 1 on stripping and prepping the Vette by way of emails and phone calls. He is truly a great person as are all the people that responded to my problem. Thank you all!!

Herb -
Yeah, if you glazed it and the stuff did not catalyze out fully, it will cause the blisters: instead of curing with the hardener, the glaze was curing through solvent evaporation. When it got hot, it did what we call "solvent popping" - the solvents finally boil out and try to evaporate, but the finsih coat keeps the stuff trapped. Sorry to hear that happened, but it does happen. You're right - if you're running a pearl based paint, a blend is very difficult to do.

If the glaze solvent popped, sealing it with DP would not have prevented the problem - nothing would have sealed it to the point that the solvents would not have popped if they were trapped in there.

Hope the rework comes out well - the car should look great when all done, so you should get plenty of enjoyment and satisfaction from the work you've done. Take care!

Lars
:flag

Paul 75 L82

Good Luck VettePower, the pain can only last as long as you let it. Your vette will look great soon.

69vette66

Hello Everyone, I think you all gave really good answers, But as being a collision repair tech, I would have to go with water. You didnt say if the car was wet sanded or dry sanded. With K36 you cannot wet sand, because it has a product called TALCOLM in it, With asorbes the water. I ran into this problem many years ago with 70 chev pu. It was bubbling up just like that. It never went away, so we took a razor blade to it and found rust under the primer. Called the PPG rep and after many days of Banging ours heads against the concrete :confused: We came to the conclusion that it was water trapped in the K36 and when you sealed it, it had no place to go. That is what it looks like to me. :cheers: