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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 12:12 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by CaseyJones
The intake location works or you can take the correct unit to a machine chop and have the threads re-cut to fit your new heads. That been mentioned many times on the forum. I need to do it for my '77 with an '87 engine.
2nd... you can cut the threads down on a lathe to 3/8 NPT. Any machinist with a lathe should be able to do that for you.
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 05:39 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by garym52
I used one like this on my 79....works just fine. I had the same problem with my new Dart heads....I spent way to much time finding this solution.....anyway, here it is:

this one is from an 81 corvette - should work just fine:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...05_77401_8456_

Hope this helps,
Gary
Better yet! You answered my question Gary. You've helped indeed.
Thank you sir.

Steve
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 07:55 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by garym52
I used one like this on my 79....works just fine. I had the same problem with my new Dart heads....I spent way to much time finding this solution.....anyway, here it is:

this one is from an 81 corvette - should work just fine:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...05_77401_8456_

Hope this helps,
Gary
I looked at this option also but was not sure that it would read correctly with my stock gauge so decided to just tap the head since I was afraid that if it did not work, the head would already be on the car. Wish I knew that this sending unit would have worked. Thanks
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 01:52 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
I looked at this option also but was not sure that it would read correctly with my stock gauge so decided to just tap the head since I was afraid that if it did not work, the head would already be on the car. Wish I knew that this sending unit would have worked. Thanks

I'll let ya know what mine does too JB.

Steve
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 02:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
I'll let ya know what mine does too JB.

Steve
Thanks
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #26  
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Willcox wrote a fantastic article on this subject. They mapped out the Ohm readings needed for all the different year Corvette temp gauges.

This will allow you to test your sender or the sender you purchase to see if it is going to read correctly.

http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=96

Good post here on how to take the measurements from the sender
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ding-unit.html

If you have a digital meet thermometer you can add it to your pot of water to get the readings at the appropriate temp that corresponds with the gauge.
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #27  
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Default I used this sender on my 68...

I installed it in my vortec heads. I also kept the original in the intake manifold. Gauge reads about the same for both.....and I have the temp sender that goes to the computer to compare it with.

Both of the senders to the gauge read a little low......so I'm figuring my gauge is off.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...tec-heads.html
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 06:50 PM
  #28  
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So are all sending units basically the same as far as sending resistance (if that's the correct terminology). Would once from an 81 work for a 76, other than the 3/8 vs 1/2 threads.
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 06:56 PM
  #29  
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Default try the TU66 from autzone....

it's under 20 bucks and an easy check..... this is the guy I used. I still have it installed on the head and I swap my lead over to it occasionally just to check that it reads about the same as the original. It does. My gauge is goofy...it still reads low as I can tell from my computer temp monitor.


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=129205_0_0_
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 06:58 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
So are all sending units basically the same as far as sending resistance (if that's the correct terminology). Would once from an 81 work for a 76, other than the 3/8 vs 1/2 threads.
I don't know the specifics of the 81 vs. 76, but the crux of the problem is that GM used different resistance values over the years. A you really need to match the sending unit to the particular gauge you have. That's why we're jumping through hoops to get the temp gauge to read correctly when we've changed the heads and the new parts have a different size hole for the temp sender.
Wilcox has some explanations, with pictures, showing the relationship.

Pete
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 07:01 PM
  #31  
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check out the link to the document from Willcox. They have done all the heavy lifting on this and documented it on a pdf.

68-74 gauge at 210* = 79 ohms
75-77 gauge at 200* = 79 ohms
80-82 gauge at 200* = 146 ohms
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 07:03 PM
  #32  
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Default Petez06 has a good point......

but for about 16 bucks it's worth a try. I was looking at that contraption to tweak the parallel resistance on the gauge (I believe it's Wilcox too?) and I may do it someday, but for now I'm ok with "trending" and my computer display temp.
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 07:05 PM
  #33  
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Thanks guys, I guess I'll look at putting my send unit in the intake manifold. I hope I don't break the manifold taking one of the plugs out
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 03:50 PM
  #34  
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I was in the same spot when I put my new dart heads on. The sensor would not fit. I put it in the intake manifold. Edelbrock 2101. Only thing is the gauge now sits at 250° or so. BUT according to my laser reader the block and heads are only 200° or 205°
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 03:53 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
With these new aluminum heads, the OEM temp sensor is too big.

Does anyone have a part # for a water temperature sensor that fits & functions correctly?

(3/8" pipe threads).

TIA.

Steve
I just went through this myself with dart heads and decided to mount my old sender in the intake manifold.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 04:01 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 75sl48
I was in the same spot when I put my new dart heads on. The sensor would not fit. I put it in the intake manifold. Edelbrock 2101. Only thing is the gauge now sits at 250° or so. BUT according to my laser reader the block and heads are only 200° or 205°
Per Post #35 and Wilcox, the higher the resistance of the sender, the higher the gauge will read.
Did you by chance put sealer on the sender threads? That's a possible explanation for the higher reading. You could take an ohmmeter and check the resistance between the sender body and the intake. Should be zero ohms.
As I stated before, mine reads correctly in the intake.

Pete
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 04:08 PM
  #37  
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I did put sealant on the the first couple threads. The brush on permatex. I'll have go back out and check the ohms. I know it's not overheating but there's still that feeling when you look down and see the gauge so high. Like oh man
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by carriljc
but for about 16 bucks it's worth a try. I was looking at that contraption to tweak the parallel resistance on the gauge (I believe it's Wilcox too?) and I may do it someday, but for now I'm ok with "trending" and my computer display temp.

That temp sensor is a "thermistor" which has a negative temp coeficient which decreases resistance with increasing temp and on top of that it is very non-linear. The match resistance trick wont work. U need a matching "thermistor".

Sorry for the bad news as i hate to be the party pooper here. But the solution is to contact delphi or whoever and get a 3/8" match. FYI Delphi didnt respond to my email.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 07:59 PM
  #39  
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Sooo... When the gauge reads 200° the ohms between the sender body and intake still reads 0 ohms. It reads 0 ohms when it's cold also.
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