Has anyone built or found a reasonably priced engine test stand ?
What to run rebuild before installing in the car ...

 

I would happily assemble one from plans (for my use) if they are available. My brothers work in a metal building company... I wonder if a $50 engine stand can be the basis for the assembly? That would allow it to accommodate ANY housing bolt pattern.

Lars has one from one of the pics I've seen of his home shop.

I'd do a 'net search. You may strike gold.

This may be worth considering if the materials are available. It is a 'home-built' DYNO. About $2,000:
http://jalopnik.com/5807502/how-to-b...for-just-2000/

Engine Test Stands seem incredibly reasonable... under $400:

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...e&kw=LARMETS-1

Perhaps we could get 'group purchase discounting' if enough are interested. For $420 (eBay), I would be glad to buy the kit and assemble. Sure would be cool to test my engine builds. I bet you could add O2 sensors (in your headers of choice) and even set carburetor mixture.

I am sure there is more needed on the stand... for example, a partial wiring harness to work with the distributor, starter (and alternator?), you also need a radiator (with space for the front alternator and water pump) to make it functional. Still, for $400-450, it is a great starting point. Reviews say to use your own (Autometer) gauges). I bet it would still be a bargain after adding parts for around $1,000.

 

There's a guy on ebay that sells plans to build one that folds up.
I read about it on some forum where guys said it works pretty well.
The ebay user is fishermanruss.

 

I've seen guys fire a motor up on a spare tire but if you're breaking in a cam, you need a stable engine stand to rev the engine, water in and water out with a small fuel cell.
The heavy duty harbor freight stand is strong enough.

 

Larrywalk on the C2 forum built a test stand in his garage. He can probably help you.

 

Sorry I don`t have plans, but I built a simple one out of scrap steel we had laying around the garage. After seeing the prices of the fancy ones, I put this together for about $50. Battery sits on the bottom shelf, and gas is fed from a gas can with a hose up to the fuel pump. Gages are wired in, with a key switch for ignition.

 

I looked a little further and found this setup. Looks more complete and they offer a radiator and other bits:

http://www.mightymountpro.com

 

Bought the plans for mine off EBay. Don't remember the vendor, but they were only about $10. Emailed to me immediately. Did not build exactly to the plans, but they were very helpful with getting the materials together and with basic dimensions. It works well. It breaks down easily for storage once I am done using it.

John

 

I have a crude, home-made run stand that I use to test every engine I build: All my engines are test run prior to dyno testing to assure proper cam break-in, set timing, adjust carb, and to verify no leaks. I also have a "mule engine" normally mounted on the stand that I use to test every carb I build. The stand is drilled to accept any bellhousing, so any engine can be mounted up easily: It takes about 15 minutes to mount up an engine and get it running. The stand is equipped with a wideband ox sensor, tach, and I use a IR gun to check water and exhaust gas temperatures. The whole thing is mounted on casters with brakes, so the stand can be easily moved around the shop area. It's one of the best "tools" I've built, and has been used to test dozens of engines. It's simple steel tubing, welded and bolted up into a universal configuration with an old radiator and some used electric fans.

Here is the test stand, with the mule engine installed, sitting next to the Corvette Lounge:


Supercharged 383 on the run stand, being set up prior to dyno testing:


Stand uses the bellhousing at the single attach point - since there are very light torque loads in the free-running state, the engine side mounts are not needed:


Pontiac 455 set up to run and check out prior to going on the dyno:


Mufflers have been welded to universal header flanges, and easily bolt up to any header system. This "exhaust system" is swapped onto every engine tested, and contains the bung for the wideband. Mule engine is on the stand, and a new engine is staged and ready for testing:

 

You didn't state your location, but if you're close you'd be welcome to borrow this, or better yet, make it yours for $75.

 

I have been looking at test stands for awhile although there are some for a few hundred bucks, They look flimsy and cheaply made. You have to spend upwards of 900 buck to get a decently built one it seems to me. So I figure I can build one myself for a lot less money and wind up with a better built stand.. I started to look around for some ideas and I looked at the one that a guy on Ebay sells the plans for and it looks like just what I need. With a few modifications.
So I bought the plans for a test stand from the guy for 9 bucks and he sent me a pdf file with the plans. Today I went to pick up some of the steel to build it. It will run me about 250 to build the stand itself. I have an old set of auto meter sport -comp gauges I can use and I will just use the copper core radiator I took out of the Vette since I plan on going with a DeWits when the time comes.
I will take picture along the way and post them as I go along.

Here is a picture of the stand the guy who sells the plans built himself.

 

IF your doing a frame off, ...use the Frame !

 

An old picture while I was building the stand. Nothing fancy, just rectangular tubing and casters to make it portable. Basic gauge panel (and a key starter switch added after the picture was taken). Just used a one gallon can for the fuel tank, and a battery to run the electricals.

 

I made one from an old 67 camaro frame i had laying around and a few other items in the garage, its not compact,pretty or fancy, but it works and was basicly free so??