passenger side courtesy light
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 56
From: Milan Indiana
passenger side courtesy light
While messing around under dash on my 68, I came across the orange and white wires for the passenger side courtesy light. With lots of help from people like Willcox and others, I have been able to get the rear lights and driver side working. I had already put in a new door switch but had no wires to connect. I assume that I would connect the wires to the switch but there is no light in that area. Any ideas?? Thanks Driver side had no housing- just bare wire with light bulb socket
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,335
Likes: 4,451
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi pn,
I'm not sure if 71 is similar to 68 or not.
But, in 71 there is a small gray metal bracket that screws to the upper/rear corner of the plastic kick panel.
The bulb socket is the type similar to the one used on the many dash lights and just 'snaps' into the bracket.
Regards,
Alan
Poor Picture. You can JUST see the bracket, the glass bulb, and the small hex head screw that mounts it to the kick panel.
I'm not sure if 71 is similar to 68 or not.
But, in 71 there is a small gray metal bracket that screws to the upper/rear corner of the plastic kick panel.
The bulb socket is the type similar to the one used on the many dash lights and just 'snaps' into the bracket.
Regards,
Alan
Poor Picture. You can JUST see the bracket, the glass bulb, and the small hex head screw that mounts it to the kick panel.
Last edited by Alan 71; Jul 19, 2014 at 07:28 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 56
From: Milan Indiana
light
Thanks Alan, I just bought the brackets on Ebay. Driver side has bulb passenger side has no wire or bulb- where do I splice one in? into the orange or white wires? Paul. I Appreciate all your responses to my questions 
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,335
Likes: 4,451
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Paul,
In 71 all the leads for the electrical items on the passenger side of the dash had very long leads on them.
The wrapped harness ended about where the center gauge cluster is.
I'd look for cut wires back in the part of the harness that's still wrapped.
In 71 they're 20 gauge, one white and one orange.
I'm sorry I don't know exactly what wires you should be looking for in a 68 harness.
Regards,
Alan
In 71 all the leads for the electrical items on the passenger side of the dash had very long leads on them.
The wrapped harness ended about where the center gauge cluster is.
I'd look for cut wires back in the part of the harness that's still wrapped.
In 71 they're 20 gauge, one white and one orange.
I'm sorry I don't know exactly what wires you should be looking for in a 68 harness.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Jul 19, 2014 at 09:09 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 56
From: Milan Indiana
courtesy
Alan, I have the white and orange wires which were cut. I need to attach to door plunger. There is no light pigtail there for courtesy- just wondering where to splice one in. Think the white is the ground will try with orange and see what I get Thanks for the help Paul
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
This might help you.. The white wire 20 gauge runs to the switch from the headlamp switch. If you look below you can see where it breaks out of the harness.
Willcox
Willcox
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 56
From: Milan Indiana
lights
I have the white and orange wires but they are cut and stuffed under dash, I have the switch with the white plunger in the door. In your pic, the wires have clips on the end- do I need those to make it work? The driver side has a connector to the plunger- maybe thats why that one doesn't work either? Thanks Willcox, always helpful
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
With you blowing this fuse in your other post....The white wires attach tot eh plunger switch that goes in the hinge post...and the orange wire (that was cut) went to you light socket for your floorboards.
YES...there are special terminal ends that HAVE TO be used on the type of switch that Willcox showed. They can be QUITE TOUCHY And sometimes 'pop' out when the door is shut. Personally I hate using this style of switch due to it is a 'hit or miss' when I install new terminals and they keep popping out...even though the lock in place...they come out after a few times the door is shut. AND YES...I do know I am doing with them...TRUST ME...sometimes these aftermarket parts suck.
I often times change out the switch to a better designed one...that was used in later years that has a plastic end on it and the terminals are not so 'touchy'. It all depends if the customer is worried about 'originality' or function without problems.
DUB
YES...there are special terminal ends that HAVE TO be used on the type of switch that Willcox showed. They can be QUITE TOUCHY And sometimes 'pop' out when the door is shut. Personally I hate using this style of switch due to it is a 'hit or miss' when I install new terminals and they keep popping out...even though the lock in place...they come out after a few times the door is shut. AND YES...I do know I am doing with them...TRUST ME...sometimes these aftermarket parts suck.
I often times change out the switch to a better designed one...that was used in later years that has a plastic end on it and the terminals are not so 'touchy'. It all depends if the customer is worried about 'originality' or function without problems.
DUB
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I don't care for that design either. We have a terminal for the switch that work, it is not on the site. It has two sides to it and is more rounded. Once you put this terminal in the switch you can bend over the end of it and it will stay in place.