C3 prep for paint
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,134
Likes: 4,206
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Ray,
Did the primer come off too?
I believe most people's thoughts are that all the paint and PRIMER should be removed so you're starting with bare fiberglass.
Often using lacquer thinner and scrub pads is needed to remove the 2 layers of primer that were sprayed on the assembly line.
It's quite a lot of work… labor intensive…. but worth it.
Are you looking at bare fiberglass?
Regards,
Alan
Did the primer come off too?
I believe most people's thoughts are that all the paint and PRIMER should be removed so you're starting with bare fiberglass.
Often using lacquer thinner and scrub pads is needed to remove the 2 layers of primer that were sprayed on the assembly line.
It's quite a lot of work… labor intensive…. but worth it.
Are you looking at bare fiberglass?
Regards,
Alan
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
You need to take it all the way down to bare fiberglass as Alan photo shows. if you don't...it can come back and haunt you.
You are aware that the Forum has an area just for 'Paint and body" questions.
it is under the GENERAL CORVETTE section in the FORUMS tab.
DUB
You are aware that the Forum has an area just for 'Paint and body" questions.
it is under the GENERAL CORVETTE section in the FORUMS tab.
DUB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
Make any major repairs with epoxy resin and glass mat when the car is bare. Then spray the first coat of epoxy primer. Body filler bonds to the epoxy primer better than to bare fiberglass. Do your block sanding and leveling, then more epoxy primer. Sand any minor defects and go for color!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
Make any major repairs with epoxy resin and glass mat when the car is bare. Then spray the first coat of epoxy primer. Body filler bonds to the epoxy primer better than to bare fiberglass. Do your block sanding and leveling, then more epoxy primer. Sand any minor defects and go for color!
SORRY...I can not let this one go....and have to respectfully disagree with you on this. Just my professional opinion and years and years of observation on what can happen.
This year model does NOT need to have epoxy resin as a resin. It is a 1972. Polyester resin is more than sufficient.
I have NEVER had an issue with my adhesives/fillers failing because I did not shoot epoxy on the panel first. It HAS EVERYTHING to do with the prep and cleanliness of the panel PRIOR to the application of anything. And... I would NEVER, EVER apply epoxy primer on my seam flanges when I am bonding panels on with my adhesive.
People seem to forget that back in the early to mid 1980's is when epoxy hit the market...and the process of applying an adhesive filler to the body has not changed. I guarantee that if I prepped my bare fiberglass and used my adhesive...there is NO WAY you can separate them without completely destroying the two panels bonded.
Epoxy primers are NOT all the same. And I have specific primer in my paint system for STEEL BODY cars that does do like what you describe. My special primer for a steel car does 'bite' into the steel and also allows the body filler to 'bite' into it. And oddly enough...my primer is NOT an epoxy primer....but has MAXIMUM adhesion and corrosion resistance properties. BUT I am writing about a steel body car NOW...and not fiberglass.
I still would NEVER use my special primer for the steel body cars on fiberglass. I do not care what some people may write...you can run into 'problems' due to sandwiching filler and epoxy primer numerous times. I have seen it.
DUB
