I installed new 17'' wheels + tires+ shocks on my 69 vette, went for a ride back at home I smoked them in the d. way, the patt. was not the same. looks like the right side of the tire at the top is out more then the left one. may be the right strut rod is lose. ever time you up grade some thing, more to fix!!!!! new strut rod?

 

Let's see a pic of your rear suspension so we can get a look at your camber adjustment eccentrics, struts, and to see what we can make out of your bushings.

 

may need to adjust the tire pressure. might need an extra pound or two in one side.

 

Got these............my '68 takes a pair on each inboard strut................................




they keep the struts "locked" in place..........

 

I just had the same issue, but the camber adjustment was rock solid. Jacked the car up and noticed if I pushed/pulled the top of the rear passenger tire, it pivoted quite a bit where the strut rod connects to the shock mount. Pulled it off and found the rubber from the bushing was completely gone. Replaced both strut rods with new bushings for $45 bucks.

 

And you saved those $300 rear tires from an early demise!





RAYS699.......buy an inexpensive level and cut it to the correct length so that it fits snugly against the top and bottom lip on the wheel rim......you will get a very accurate reading on all 4 wheels and you can easily make camber adjustments without dealing with fenders protruding or tire bulge!

 

I have a digital angle gauge, for my t saw+c saw when I do this car up on jack stands or on the pavment

 

Not to be picky...but technically these shouldered washers are there because GM did not change the size of the inner sleeve of the bushing to accommodate a smaller diameter cam bolt.. And knowing that the lower shock bolt has a larger diameter than the cam bolt...they used these shoulder washers so the cam bolt with its diameter can be used. They come in 2 different diameters depending on the year model and the strut rod bushing.

One thing is for certain. That have to be used....or problems will occur.

DUB

 

Do yourself a favor and get a set of competition adjustable strut rods with heim joints-no bushings. They are MUCH better than the OEM rods with rubber or even poly bushing strut rods. I have had both. The heim joints eliminate unwanted camber changes in the rear and the car handles, rides, and steers better than it ever did with strut rods with bushings. AND they do not ride harder….

 

Can you post a link to some good heim joint rods?

 

Now Dub...we can,t speak evil of the General! He DiD take a few shortcuts though!

 

I agree wth jb78. I put new stock strut rods in my car when I rebuilt the rear end, and the rubber bushings disintegrated in a couple years. I replaced them and the one on the driver's side did the same thing about a year later. For what it's worth, I've been told that many parts in teh aftermarket are made overseas, and the rubber is sub-standard. Because of the rotational motion on the strut rods, I went with heim joint instead of the poly bushing upgrade. The car handles better and rides fine.

 

Two small changes and you can use your 48 inch long level to both check and set camber.
1) drill two 1/4" holes into the face of the level 17 (or 15, 16 or 18) inches apart near one end of the level. Install carriage bolts into the holes, making sure that they stand off from the face the exact same distance. The heads of these bolts will set on the finished rim of the wheel and will indicate what the 'tilt' of the wheel is.
2) to set camber requires a bit of math. A) You need to know the circumference. For a 17 inch wheel multiply the diameter (17) by pi (3.1416), which equals 53.4072 inches. B) Divide this number (the circumference) by 360 (the number of degrees in a circle) This will give you the length (in inches) of ONE DEGREE C) choose what camber you desire (1 degree, 1.5 degrees etc.) and multiply the above number by that amount. This will give you the total length of that many degrees. THIS IS THE NUMBER YOU MUST ADJUST ADD TO THE UPPER CARRIAGE BOLT (IF YOU WANT NEGATIVE CAMBER). Adjust your strut rods so the bubble reads level and you will have the degrees of camber you chose.

17x3.1416=53.4072 inches
53.4072/360 =.148353
.148353x1.5 degrees =.22253 inches or approximately 7/32"

This is the amount to add to the upper bolt - the amount that the upper rim of the wheel will be 'pushed in' compared with the lower rim. If you want positive camber, simply make the adjustment to the lower bolt instead of the upper.

 

I have had these or about 6-7 years-awesome! Stole them on sale at time for like $129

http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette...d-kit-602910-1

 

sorry, busy at work, make more spend more on vette. I am back to the vette, got new h.d. strut rods+ gooies from v.b.p. bushing are bad in old rods. but now I can not get off the s.m. got the s.m. remover tool used p.b. spray all of it a lot. hammered on it willnot brake loose, if I hammer more I will maybe brake some thing like the t-arm bushings or spindle support. what can I do next, cut them off I ordered new one, but how do you get the parts out of spindles, DRILL THEM OUT??

 

I don't see how you're going to drill out the shock mount. I would continue to spray pb blaster and let it work in. Maybe once a day for a week. Then, using the shock mount removal tool, try hammering on it again. I use a short handle 5 lb sledge. If that doesn't work, try heating it up. If you have access to acetylene then great, if not try MAPP gas.

Good luck. This sounds like a tough one!

 

if keep hammering on it, how about the 2'S eyes ON THE SPINDLE SUPPORT

 

if I use a a big fu## hammer like that how the about the t-arm+ bolt moving ???

 

I hear you. The spindle support is cast, so you're right to be concerned. What kind of hammer are you using? How heavy is it? Hit it as hard as you feel comfortable, then try heat.

How you soaked it in pb blaster for at least a couple days? If you haven't done what I suggested in my prior post, I think you should try it first. If you've already tried what I suggested, then you may have to remove the trailing arm assembly and bring it to a machine shop so they can try and press it out.

 

I have soaked for a couple days 3 time a day, if use that big of hammer you are going to move the car off the jack stands or brake some thing