I would think that an epoxy paint or powdercoat would be best for your galvanized frame. POR is made for rusty frames...not CLEAN ones. Other 'normal' paints may not stick well. If the galvanized surface is cleaned well with lacquer thinner, Prep-Sol, etc. epoxy should stick just fine. If you consider powdercoating, have a freshly galvanized sample piece coated first...just to be certain of good results.

 

Yup, that's the car. The owner died in the accident in Switzerland.

Anyone remember his user name here, or on any other forum? I am curious about his car again.

 

Hey brando, check out what this guy did:





http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-pictures.html

 

Thanks! I looked into galvanizing, but decided to go a different route. Yours look great, but I would get some paint on it before it oxidizes. I had mine acid dipped, zinc phosphate wash, and powdercoated with RAL 3000 Flame Red. I'm really liking my color choice. I coated the inside of the frame with Fluid Film. Here's some photos.

Under the hood you can see a lot of the chassis.






Not very noticeable from a distance.

 

Mike- your car looks incredible!!!



Yep- that's Avner- in Israel. IIRC he was telling me the labor is very inexpensive. He's working on his motorcycle Cafe Racer project right now-putting Ducati parts on a Honda CBX frame.





Roger Honegger

I think it was "customvette"

Pic link

http://s101.photobucket.com/user/cus...art=all&page=1

 

Hi Danish Shark,
The Chevelle folks have a lot of experience with HDG. That is where I got my information and the courage to move forward with mine. I had my frame race welded per the Chevy Power book. Additionally I had the frame welds reinforced at the rear kick ups. The reason for that is the acid bath before the frame gets galvanized. My frame was considered pristine, but you never know. Any badly rusted areas would have just disappeared in the acid bath which is not good!! So the extra welding gave me a little peace of mind. Frame is solid and straight.

 

7T2,
Wow!!!! So this guys was super serious. I can identify with his thinking, LOL. OCD for sure. Barring any accidents, his car can be passed down for generations. My plan is to have my bird cage sand blasted and painted. I think that will do the trick. The only reason I galvanized is because of the rust resistance on the INSIDE of the frame rails with the structural foam inside. I figure there will be some moisture in there somewhere between the foam and the frame and I don't want that rusting from the inside out.

 

[QUOTE=MIKE80;1587605116]Thanks! I looked into galvanizing, but decided to go a different route. Yours look great, but I would get some paint on it before it oxidizes. I had mine acid dipped, zinc phosphate wash, and powdercoated with RAL 3000 Flame Red. I'm really liking my color choice. I coated the inside of the frame with Fluid Film. Here's some photos.

Under the hood you can see a lot of the chassis.


Ha ha I knew it was Mike something. Yeah man, I have always liked your C3. It's really nice and I like the fact that you drive it. It's not a garage queen. Those pics are great. Thank you. It gives me a perspective on how much frame you see from many different perspectives. It's hard to recall when you have a black frame and a black car. Things kind of get lost in the shadows.
Thanks for these.

 

Did a little digging around on Google. Man what an awful mess. A reminder to be careful out there!

 

Wow! That was a gorgeous car. It really bums me out that the owner lost his life while driving it. Dang!

 

Tragic.

 

Thanks Richard

I can't wait to see some videos of yours when you have it on the road

 

Thanks man! No problem. Yeah, I wish I had more time to drive the vette

 

WOW that car is unbelievable!

 

That's the coolest looking frame I've ever seen! What a huge bonus to have the inside of the frame protected as well. I was unaware that this could be done. If I ever do a frame off that will certainly be what I do to my frame.

 

Thanks Priya,
It's nice to have both the inside and outside of the frame protected in addition to the acid bath that takes place before the galvanizing. Knowing it's got zero rust is a huge plus. But I still feel galvanizing is overkill. The only reason I galvanized is because I'm putting structural foam in the frame. If you aren't doing that, then a good frame cleaned and painted is all you would need.

 

The trouble is you can't paint the inside of the frame.

 

Tell us more about the structural foam; I seem to remember some discussion about it here some time ago.

 

7t2,
Man where do I start. I've done so much research on this subject I'm

I'll assume you just want to know how it pertains to our C3 chassis and not it's history or real world application. If you want that too, then I'll post some links. Just know that Chrysler, Ford, BMW, Mercedes and others all use it in some form or another in their production chassis. There are mainly two types of expanding foam out there: Open cell (absorbs water) and closed cell (water resistant). I'll be using a polyurethane based, closed cell 16lb/sq ft density structural foam. This stuff is like a rock. It's a two part application that you mix together. After you initially join the two substances you have about 45 seconds until the chemical reaction begins and it starts to expand. This time varies due to ambient air temperature so beware of that. Additionally, the more dense the foam, the less expansion ratio you have. The place I'm getting the foam from offers densities in 2lb, 4lb, 8lb and 16lb densities.
Here's a link to the site:
http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html

I still haven't worked out how I'm going to get the foam into the chassis in enough time before it expands. I know I'll be doing it in stages. In the site's FAQ, it states you can layer the foam as long as you wait 20 minutes for the first layer to cure. My plan is to put in all the known bolts (brake line bolts, rack bolts, etc..) into the chassis with release agent applied. I'll stand the chassis up on its nose with the *** end pointing straight up perpendicular to the floor. Then apply the foam in stages taking advantage of holes like this one that run up both sides of the frame:



Have a clear tube inserted and awaiting the mixed agent as I pour it in the tube with help of a funnel. All other holes and orifices will be covered with plastic and then duct taped. I'll go a little at a time until I've completed the process working my way up.

I plan to foam from the front spring hats all the way back to the rear kick-ups.

I can post more links on the subject if you are interested. I will be doing a very comprehensive right up of my experience.

 

Hi Priya,
Yes, if the inside of the frame is a big concern, then galvanizing pretty much eliminates all chances of rust forming inside, or anywhere for that matter.