Another unique early '68 part?
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Sonoma Ca
Another unique early '68 part?
I have an early '68 convertible (ser #08528) and have been looking for an original courtesy light switch. The picture shows both the orig. and the repro. Among several differences is the length of the shaft that houses the contact plunger beyond the nut portion of the switch. The repros aren't long enough to reach the point on the door to push the plunger in and open the circuit. Also the orig. has a captive washer design and the repro doesn't. Don't think that matters, just different. Also- the orig. looks like the nut and threaded portion, that is separate from the shaft or plunger shaft, allows them to move independently. If it didn't have the captive washer it almost looks like a brake line connection with a compression fitting. If they move independently then how the heck could the switch work. Mine doesn't much because a slight bend in the tubing won't allow it. Anybody seen this switch or is it Bubba and I'm missing something else to make the switch operate (other than brain power) 
Kevin
Kevin
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Sonoma Ca
These repro switches aren't adjustable. I thought that might be a possibility so I ordered one from Zip and also from Doc Rebuild. Exactly the same. I still think it may be a '68 thing. Thanks for your input KT
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Kevin,
I believe originally there was a vinyl/nylon' (?) pad about 1/2" square and about 1/4" thick on the door's jamb that pushed the button on the switch in…. are your's there?
Regards,
Alan
I believe originally there was a vinyl/nylon' (?) pad about 1/2" square and about 1/4" thick on the door's jamb that pushed the button on the switch in…. are your's there?
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Aug 30, 2014 at 05:53 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Sonoma Ca
Alan- I have heard of those for the door ajar switch but not for the courtesy light switch. Originally the courtesy lights wouldn't work without the inner door panel clips screwed in (which is how I started my investigation) but I put them in to test and the pass. side switch (original) started working. The driver side broke and that is where I started, in replacing the original switch with the repro. It would probably work with the addition of a pad you described but since the original works then I'm not sure they were on the car initially. Thanks for the thought!
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,274
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Kevin,
I'm sorry, your right.
I thinking of the switch in the lock pillar that has the pad on the door as a bumper… you're working on the switch in the hinge pillar.
Good Luck in your Search!
Regards,
Alan
I'm sorry, your right.
I thinking of the switch in the lock pillar that has the pad on the door as a bumper… you're working on the switch in the hinge pillar.
Good Luck in your Search!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Aug 31, 2014 at 08:26 AM.