I'm getting ready to tackle the interior install on my LS conversion.

Need guidance on best methods to go at it.

 

Corvette Dash Pad Remove and Install Instructions 68-77

Here is a step by step.. if you have any questions post again..

But one change we've made to this is the steering column.. So pull the column it's easy and makes the job much easier.

Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977

On both links, click on supporting document..


Willcox

 

As you can see, it's all out. I'm looking for the code key to put it back together. It looked like your instructions focus more on removal. Did I overlook the obvious?

 

Hi CW,
Here's the sequence some people use.
Upper dash pad
Left side dash pad
Shifter Console
Center gauge cluster
Radio
E-brake console
Right hand dash Pad
Left and right kick panels.

Check the operation of ALL gauges, switches, vacuum operated parts, and controllers, as you proceed. You lose access to them as you proceed so make sure they continue to work as you 'cover them up'.
Start all the screws and fasteners but don't tighten anything until you've proceeded far enough that you're confident that the screws in the first pieces to go in place can be tightened.
Don't push on the top of the gauge cluster under any circumstance … you'll break it.
Figure you'll have to take at least part of it back apart for some reason.
Have the AIM in front of you as you work and refer to it.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Going back together, we'll usually put the upper in first and then go to the left hand lower pad. On your car I would take the tach cable loose from the distributor which will allow you to pull it inward to attach easier. Then go work the center dash bezel and then the pass side pad.

edit: Looks Like Alan beat me to it.. Nice post Alan.

If you want to test the fuel and temp gauges for function, its on the site under tech pictures.

Fuel Gauge http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=26476. To test attach power and ground, the gauge should go to full, jump the ground wire from the ohms stud to the ground and the gauge should go to empty. If you don't have a potentiometer to add ohms, use a flasher and run one wire from the flasher to the ohms input stud and the other to ground. Normally this will give you around 55 ohms input and give you a reading slightly above 1/2 tank.

Temp Gauge http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=27162 On the temp gauge, do the same test with power and ground. Only this gauge is the opposite. Without input (only power and ground) this gauge will go to cool, when you ground the input stud it will go to hot and with the flasher as your ohms input it will go to around the first mark past 210 and 250.

Willcox

 

Thanks guys. My install will be a bit easier because I'm installing Dakota digital gauges.

 

All good advise. "Whatever can go wrong....." I would do all the bulbs too, and test to make sure they light up. Sure a lot easier to it do now than when you have to stand on your head in a month or two after everything is all back together.
Ed

 

Thanks for the tip, Ed. The good news is that the new gauges eliminate most of the bulbs. The only ones that remain are the console and open door.