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If you are going to do the alignment (wheel alignment) by yourself for the first time.....I would suggest to try to get "Zero" degrees camber on all four wheels and "Zero" Toe on the front and back so that you have an understanding of the suspension.
Then you can "dial-in" the correct Camber and Toe specifications once the car is ready for road-tests.
Hi WG,
If you take a close look you'll see that the majority of the dimensions on that drawing are related to the horizontal position and vertical height of the body mounting points to the ground/surface plate, and to each other.
I think this information was used on the production line at the 'jig' where the frame was measured to determine the number of shims needed at each body mount.
I don't really think it has anything to do with 'aligning' the chassis.
Regards,
Alan
Hi WG,
If you take a close look you'll see that the majority of the dimensions on that drawing are related to the horizontal position and vertical height of the body mounting points to the ground/surface plate, and to each other.
I think this information was used on the production line at the 'jig' where the frame was measured to determine the number of shims needed at each body mount.
I don't really think it has anything to do with 'aligning' the chassis.
Regards,
Alan
Correct, but you can 'translate' them to actual dimensions by projecting a laser plane above the frame and jigging it up in the center. The weight of some of the suspension, driveline and engine is going to pull it down in the front an rear some. For that reason, I measured the difference between the number 1-3 , 2-4, 5-7 and 6-8 points, jacked the car up by the front and rear and then jacked up the center section to get the difference back again. Then you can start measuring.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Something that might be missed here, as it's not shown to do on the schematic, is the importance of cross-checking measurements diagonally, both overall and by sections (forward/middle/aft). I've found this is very helpful for identifying where any problem parallel to the datum plane might be, as well as to determining whether or not the frame itself or suspension pickup points (such as I've found at my shark's right front/lower CA) are to blame for causing fundamental alignment issues.
And, do speak up if you intend on adding any stiffening welds, gussets, bars or such, as there's another little gremlin you want to make certain to avoid.
Something that might be missed here, as it's not shown to do on the schematic, is the importance of cross-checking measurements diagonally, both overall and by sections (forward/middle/aft). I've found this is very helpful for identifying where any problem parallel to the datum plane might be, as well as to determining whether or not the frame itself or suspension pickup points (such as I've found at my shark's right front/lower CA) are to blame for causing fundamental alignment issues.
And, do speak up if you intend on adding any stiffening welds, gussets, bars or such, as there's another little gremlin you want to make certain to avoid.
Suspension points are not in that diagram. I later found out that on my front lower control arms one of the brackets was bent. Had to replace it. Mayor PIA.