I know it takes some effort now to lock the doors with the key.

I don't know anything about them yet, they just came in last week and are sitting in a box in the garage. I should check them them out before I can't return them, thanks for the heads up!

 

The easiest way to check if your ORIGINAL power door lock solenoids/actuators are bad, worn or stiff and binding is to disconnect the rod that is clipped to your latch mechanism. Then use your door key. If it turns basically effortless...GREAT!!! Then remove the access panel and reach inside and find the top of the actuator and move it by hand up and down...and at THE SAME TIME...make sure that the rod you disconnected is in its basic correct location or hook it back up...If you have to fight the solenoid/actuator manually....then you know you have a problem that can grow into a REALLY BIG PROBLEM if you do not address it.

ALSO...if that is not enough....there is a black plastic water diverting shield that MUST be in place (each side). What this does( in case you are wondering) is diverts water away from your latch mechanism...from the water that comes out of your outside door handle. If it is missing ...find some used ones and install them and while doing so...you might as well remove the latch mechanism and wash it thoroughly out and re-grease it.

Also when installing the water shield....make sure you use some strip caulk or closed cell foam tape at the contact point where the water shield touches the inner door....or you can have water wick in behind it...which makes this pointless if you do not seal it off.

DUB

 

FACT....This drawing is incorrect and you need to remove it.

Terminal 'C' does not join to each other....that is ONE thing wrong. FACT

Technically the passenger side is where the switch has the 2 wires that ground.

Switch the way these connectors are labeled. So the left one is the drivers side and the right one is the passenger side....the routing goes like this

Terminal A (drivers side) goes to terminal A on passenger side.
Terminal B on drivers side goes to terminal D on passenger side
Terminal C on drivers side goes to ONE of the terminals on EACH door lock actuator
Terminal D on the driver side goes to THE OTHER terminal on BOTH of the door lock actuators.
Terminal E on the driver side goes to terminal C on the passenger side.
Terminals B and E are joined together and grounded to the door itself.

NOW...when the two wires are connected to the door lock actuators....they may need to be switch to work correctly with the switch....if they are backwards..then just switch the wires....it is that simple.

DUB

 

DUB, while on the subject of keeping water out of the door, do you know of anyone that sells just the rubber boot that protects the door lock actuator from water intrusion? We're putting together a 1980 with power everything and I noticed that while the door lock actuators operate freely, the rubber boot is missing on both of them. I hate to have to replace two actuators just to get new boots.

Have you found anything that will accomplish this?

Thanks, GUSTO

 

So i go to check why my door locks are not working and i find there are no door actuators at all and the wiring is chopped up ....



So apart from 2 of these
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=4820

What else do i need? Do they come with the metal rod as i dont have them...

Thanks

 

Hi Dub, since you are very experienced with power locks, could you help me facing this problem?
Hi,


I have an 81 with power door locks (+ alarm) and I am facing the following probelm, I hope somone can help me.

After having a problem with door stuck I decided to change the latches, handles and door cilinder to have all the stuff brand new.
I am prett confident that i put everything togather correctly and both doors close very well now. I’ll try to post a video.

The problem is that now, when i connect the two rods of the actuators to the latches, the key wont turn to open (it should push the rods down i guess).
When the rods are disconnected to the latches, the key opens and closes well in both doors as well as when the rods are free, I can move them up and down using the power lock swithces in the internal part of the doors.


I guess that, to test the mechanism, I should be able to push the rods of the actuator down (when they are not connected to the latch) with the hands cause this is what the latch is supposed to do when the key is turned to open….but it seems they move only electrically through the switches and this does not allow they key to push down the rods.

Anybody can help me?

Thanx in advance
Filippo