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Have a 80 vette,,,, woke up on day and decided to install factory electric door locks (not really sure what I was getting myself in to here) with all new switches, actuators, pig tails and additional wiring.
I now have three different wiring diagrams
,, two did nothing but blowing fuses and the third has the drivers door working fine locking both locks then unlocking both,,,perfect.
Now the passengers door,, it unlocks both doors but when you go to lock
the doors it blows the fuse.
Yes all wiring gone over for shorts.
anybody got a fourth wiring diagram or ideas to share? So close,,,,, Bradley
The door lock actuators require dedicated power AND ground wires, since the C3 body is mostly fiberglass. Also, the power line you tied into must be able to handle the power it was intended to see PLUS the total load of the lock actuators. And, because those actuators have coiled-wire solenoids working them (which generate inductive forces), the fuse needs to be a 'slow-blow' type, rather than the instant-fail type.
paying to get power locks to work right now on my 80. my 75 doesn't have them. I can reach across and work the passenger locks by hand. what's the point. give me manual.
paying to get power locks to work right now on my 80. my 75 doesn't have them. I can reach across and work the passenger locks by hand. what's the point. give me manual.
Mine kept blowing hard to reach fuses, and when they did work made the key so hard to turn unlocking the doors I was afraid it would brake off. I removed all the power lock stuff from the doors, the key turns smooth and easy and I got rid of weight, rattles, and wiring problems. It's not like I can't just reach over and use the lock on the door.
switch the switches and see if the problem follows the switch or stays on Pass side.
Which wiring diagram are you using?
I now have what is called the 1978-1981 Camaro/Firebird diagram
I would love to let you look at all three if I can fax or e-mail them over to you.
And bare in mind a did add all the additional wiring necessary in lieu of replacing the harnesses.
And I did flip the switches ( I have three total to work with here ) to ensure it was not them and bench tested both the actuators before I started and have since rang out the wiring looking for shorts,, just in case.
I must win here!!
Last edited by dekuyper; Sep 12, 2014 at 02:40 PM.
Reason: missed a few words here sorry
The door lock actuators require dedicated power AND ground wires, since the C3 body is mostly fiberglass. Also, the power line you tied into must be able to handle the power it was intended to see PLUS the total load of the lock actuators. And, because those actuators have coiled-wire solenoids working them (which generate inductive forces), the fuse needs to be a 'slow-blow' type, rather than the instant-fail type.
Yes sir,, I do have a dedicated power source thinking that was going to help make thing easier here,,,
...I now have what is called the 1978-1981 Camaro/Firebird diagram...
Why? You have a 1980 Corvette.
The assembly instruction manual (AIM) shows the power door lock installation since it was a factory option. It lists all the parts, the original GM parts numbers, and shows how everything went together. It takes the guesswork out of things.
The assembly instruction manual (AIM) shows the power door lock installation since it was a factory option. It lists all the parts, the original GM parts numbers, and shows how everything went together. It takes the guesswork out of things.
With not having a factory wiring harness in place for the optional elect door locks,,,
I was informed that I needed to 'add' the necessary wiring needed
or replace my wiring harness.
This info came from the wholesaler of the rebuilt actuators who also
supplied me with the door switches and pig tails.
We started with was to be the correct factory wiring diagram with no success which now has us using the latest diagram,, which almost works.
Basically this would be considered an after market assembly using factory correct parts,, just add wiring.
I now this system very well...but you are asking for help and information is needed.
Howe many pins are on the power door lock switches???? Should be 5 of them
You door lock actuators should have 2 terminals.....correct????
If all is correct...then this should work because I have installed so many into Corvettes it is a JOKE...
Do your pigtails come color coded???
These actuators DO NOT need to be grounded....they do NOT work that way. the system switches polarity to get them to work....so when you unlock the door...one terminal will be 12 volts and the other is ground...when you go to lock the door...it does the opposite.....so I would BET that you do not have the passenger switch wired correctly....it is SPECIFIC due to having two wires in this connector going to a ground source.
FACT...some of these reproduction switches are BAD. I have been bit by several.
You have to verify that the actuators work as I mentioned with you own test wires going to a battery...I do not trust anything. I always test it before I put it in.
If you post a picture of your wiring schematic...it would also be helpful.
5 pins correct,,,two terminals correct,,, would love to get on on the
phone with my installer.. new to all this forum but can you private message
me for my contact info?
I now this system very well...but you are asking for help and information is needed.
Howe many pins are on the power door lock switches???? Should be 5 of them
You door lock actuators should have 2 terminals.....correct????
If all is correct...then this should work because I have installed so many into Corvettes it is a JOKE...
Do your pigtails come color coded???
These actuators DO NOT need to be grounded....they do NOT work that way. the system switches polarity to get them to work....so when you unlock the door...one terminal will be 12 volts and the other is ground...when you go to lock the door...it does the opposite.....so I would BET that you do not have the passenger switch wired correctly....it is SPECIFIC due to having two wires in this connector going to a ground source.
FACT...some of these reproduction switches are BAD. I have been bit by several.
You have to verify that the actuators work as I mentioned with you own test wires going to a battery...I do not trust anything. I always test it before I put it in.
If you post a picture of your wiring schematic...it would also be helpful.
DUB
Here is what we are working with. I would like to get you and my tech
together if possible. Can you e-mail me at bradleyelect@aol.com
Here is what we are working with. I would like to get you and my tech
together if possible. Can you e-mail me at bradleyelect@aol.com
I will have to draw out what you have and compare it to what I have. the first thing I see is that it seems to be backwards...meaning the two wireds on the drivers side that go to ground should actually be on the passenger side....that might not make any difference...BUT I will make sure that it is correct and get with you and your tech.
You problem might be in if you are wiring it to also work your anti-theft system...which goes to that controller behind the passenger seat. Using the power door lock 'arms and dis-arms' the anti-theft system.
Your tech called me and we got them wired in and working as designed.
DUB
You are the MAN,,, thanks a bunch and if you ever
get this way please look me up. You got a big
old steak and a beer ( or grape nehi ) coming your way sir!!
You are the MAN,,, thanks a bunch and if you ever
get this way please look me up. You got a big
old steak and a beer ( or grape nehi ) coming your way sir!!
Okay, now I know who to talk to when I open up the doors to repair my power locks on my own 1980! Got new switches and actuators, we'll see what is needed... in the spring probably
Okay, now I know who to talk to when I open up the doors to repair my power locks on my own 1980! Got new switches and actuators, we'll see what is needed... in the spring probably
Feel free. Not a problem.
OR...this can be a fun task of correcting so many 'issues' that need to be corrected.
I will write this. You HAVE to MAKE SURE that the actuators take almost NO EFFORT to move the plunger. I use the Dorman ones...which are so smooth...that the plunger will darn near fall down when I turn it upside down...even with the accordion seal.
The REASON IS....if the actuator is binding or takes effort to move...when you go to use your door key...this INCREASED effort can cause for damage to the back side end of your lock cylinder...and also POSSIBLY cause the fiberglass/SMC to become fatigues and allow the lock cylinder to then spin in the door...WHICH IS VERY BAD
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