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When i got into the car the gauge was reading correctly? I did take out the panel to check everything and looks ok, wires/contacts et, even took it for a test drive to see if it would act up again, jiggled the wires and turned everything on etc and looks like ( all is well, for now ).
Not sure what caused it to act up tho. Will keep an eye on it in the future.
Thank you for the video and info from you web site.
Again, i get in the car and its working correctly, drive for 10 minuets and all is well, look at the gauge again and its pegged at 3:00.
Think i will trace out the tan wire to its source after i look in the aim and see if it has a problem.
Later
I would check the sending unit ohms wire and also check the ground for the sender.
For the gauge to go to 3, you are dropping ohms. When this happens and when you have the 3 reading, go to the sender and pull an ohms reading from the sender.
If the sender is failing or you have a sender ground issue you'll get 1 on your meter (open circuit). Check the ground at this point by running another ground to the sender and testing again. If you still get open circuit you might want to take a hard look at the sender.
If you get ohms reading you have verified the sender and ground as not being the issue. I’d then take a look at the ohms wire connector where it attaches to the sender and make sure it’s not corroded or loose. I would also inspect the wire in the area of the sender.
Because dropping ohms from the gauge can be so many different issues... It’s best to start at the back and work forward. It could be something as simple as corrosion in the front to rear connector or a loose or damaged wire from front to rear, all the way to a defective sending unit.
My car was doing that after I figured gauge was right I dropped tank (not all the way down just enough to get my hands on wires) to see if wires on sending unit were on correctly so I took em off and put em back on and nothing then I traced the wires going down the side and saw some wires were hitting muffler they were a little crispy so I taped them up and moved to the side wiggled the signal wire on sending unit and my tank went to 1/4 which is basically what I thought I had.
Thank you Willcox for the videos and web site pdfs.
The problem was that a month ago i replaced the gas tank drain hose bye the gas filler, in reinstalling the rubber boot i knocked the tan wire loose from the sender, it was just sitting on the tanks connector, that's why it would be intermittent.
While doing your check list i discovered it, thank you again.
P/S. you wouldn't happen to have a clock video for my 75, clock has been at 12:00 for close to 30 years now?
Thank you Willcox for the videos and web site pdfs.
The problem was that a month ago i replaced the gas tank drain hose bye the gas filler, in reinstalling the rubber boot i knocked the tan wire loose from the sender, it was just sitting on the tanks connector, that's why it would be intermittent.
While doing your check list i discovered it, thank you again.
P/S. you wouldn't happen to have a clock video for my 75, clock has been at 12:00 for close to 30 years now?
Well that makes the clock correct at a minimum 2 times a day...
I can fix the original movements but it would just be a band-aide. The original borg movements were not a great design and as you know it failed early in life and will probably fail again if repaired. The best solution is to quartz convert the clock.