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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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Default Door gaps

I know, I know, there are a lot of threads on this. But I haven't found exactly what I am after. My gaps seem to widen at the bottom. I'm not sure if I have been jacking improperly, or maybe it was not supported correctly when the po had the rad support out, but it's really bugging me. Doors close fine and look ok at the back.

I know my body mounts need replaced, perhaps that will do it(and how hard is that to do, body on)? Is there a procedure for adjusting the front clip that I can try? Thanks for any help.
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 07:31 PM
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Wider at the bottom eh? I know mine are tighter on the bottom from the weight of the doors pulling the hinges down over the years, but wider at the bottom? Maybe PO was jacking the car from the rad support?

Hell, I don't even have a body mount on the passenger side right at the door hinge! 6.5/8 body mounts left... i need some work done there too!
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Vette-kid
...Is there a procedure for adjusting the front clip that I can try?...
Not without breaking bonds and rebonding. The problem is usually not the clip provided the clip is still the factory installation.
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 01:21 PM
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Couldn't say there. When I Jack the car the gaps change. If I Jack anywhere on the frame the gap gets wider at the top. When I set it back down I go back to wider at bottom. Drivers side does have some separation of the panel right in front of the door. I also just noticed only two bolts inn the frame extension. Looks like there should be three? I'll try and get some pics up this weekend.
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 06:36 PM
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I replaced my body mounts-body on frame. You raise one side at a time. Hard? Well, not as hard probably as a heart transplant.
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 07:11 PM
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I can not even add anything on this that will remotely be of any help.

WHAT YEAR???
Coupe or convertible????

I would have to have the car in front of me so I could look at areas that I know how they should look and see if the car has been in an accident or been 'ditch digging' before.

Due to the panel separation...that makes me wonder if it had been in a ditch or two before. I would look for different bonding adhesive that someone may have tried to plaster in a crack or whatever.


Depending on where you put your floor jack...I would be careful. Jacking up from the side can cause for problems ...ESPECIALLY if the frame has INTEGRITY ISSUES due to fatigue, rust, previous damage and poor repairs.

DUB
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 08:23 PM
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C3's have long and heavy, big @$$ doors. If it's a convertible, that adds the problem.
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
I can not even add anything on this that will remotely be of any help.

WHAT YEAR???
Coupe or convertible????

I would have to have the car in front of me so I could look at areas that I know how they should look and see if the car has been in an accident or been 'ditch digging' before.

Due to the panel separation...that makes me wonder if it had been in a ditch or two before. I would look for different bonding adhesive that someone may have tried to plaster in a crack or whatever.


Depending on where you put your floor jack...I would be careful. Jacking up from the side can cause for problems ...ESPECIALLY if the frame has INTEGRITY ISSUES due to fatigue, rust, previous damage and poor repairs.

DUB
78 coupe. And you have already been helpful, thank you. What issues are caused in jacking from the side? Where should I be jacking from?

The frame is solid and rust free, dimensions check true. There was a frame repair where they welded a new front section on just behind the motor mount. That is why I mention maybe they did not support the nose properly. But the dimensions check according to factory spec, motor and trans drop in and align correctly. I would think there would be issue there if they did not get it true.
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette-kid
78 coupe. And you have already been helpful, thank you. What issues are caused in jacking from the side? Where should I be jacking from?

The frame is solid and rust free, dimensions check true. There was a frame repair where they welded a new front section on just behind the motor mount. That is why I mention maybe they did not support the nose properly. But the dimensions check according to factory spec, motor and trans drop in and align correctly. I would think there would be issue there if they did not get it true.
I always jack up from the front and the rear...rarely from the side....and if I do....I only do it long enough so I can slide my big thick block of wood under a tire so I can get my floor jack under the front end and pick up the front end....if I did not have the chance to drive it up on my custom ramps....such as when the Corvettes come in dead and will not crank and run.

I am curious WHY they had to section in a front frame section. And I hope they did it correctly. And if it got HIT hard enough to require a frame section...I hope the damage did not transfer to other areas ans it can easily due....depending on the impact.

I am still curious if you can tell if the front clip was off the car or not....and IF the body is squared to the frame by looking at the indexing points.

Without seeing photo's of this gap issue...and photo's of where the front end impact structure bolts to the end of the frame in the wheel housing areas....it is hard to speculate the problem.

DUB
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 10:25 PM
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Sorry it took so long. This is the drivers side.

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Passenger side is actually ok.

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Last edited by Vette-kid; Sep 20, 2014 at 11:03 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 11:05 PM
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...uh, sorry for the funny angles, first time ive posted mobile pics from the phone...didn't work out so well I guess
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 11:06 PM
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It is obvious. The fenders are coming off at the bottom. It almost appears in your photo that they actually painted on the flange that the fender needs to bond to. Photo 3 has me concerned the most of the vertical crack. This car must have been hit...which actually makes me wonder if they actually got your frame correct....but without photo's of the front impact section of the frame...I can not comment further.

DUB
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
It is obvious. The fenders are coming off at the bottom. It almost appears in your photo that they actually painted on the flange that the fender needs to bond to. Photo 3 has me concerned the most of the vertical crack. This car must have been hit...which actually makes me wonder if they actually got your frame correct....but without photo's of the front impact section of the frame...I can not comment further.

DUB
Perhaps you can give me a better idea of what you are referring to. The very front section of the frame where the extension bolts to it? Or the extension itself? Ill try to get some more pictures tomorrow.

This car will never be perfect, I'm fully aware of that and don't expect it. If I can clean up this line a little, Id actually be pretty excited with it.
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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 06:15 PM
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Where the extension is bolted to the end of the frame in the front.

Have you checked your body indexing point under your door sills???? One on each side and it should line up with the hole in the frame. GM sued 2 dowels...so to speak and pinned these 2 points with the dowels to get the body on the frame square.

Please...no sideways photos...it at all possible,

DUB
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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Please...no sideways photos...it at all possible,

DUB
Hey DUB

If you're using a laptop, just pick it up and turn 90 degrees
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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Where the extension is bolted to the end of the frame in the front.

Have you checked your body indexing point under your door sills???? One on each side and it should line up with the hole in the frame. GM sued 2 dowels...so to speak and pinned these 2 points with the dowels to get the body on the frame square.

Please...no sideways photos...it at all possible,

DUB
Thanks again for all your help. Ill have to check for the points your talking about. Have to check my AIM for that. I did check the frame points on the bottom compared to the dimensions in the AIM. IIRC all measurements were within 1/16th. I think there were 4 or five that were taken, side to side, front to back and a few diagonals. They were all within tolerance so I figured the frame was ok overall. That doesn't account for the front clip though.

Looking at these pictures and this discussion I think its obvious that it was hit front left. The AC condenser also had a small dent on that side, possibly from the headlight being jammed into it. I initially figured it was just from the horrible engine extraction job someone had done, I obviously didn't put enough thought into it. I did know it had been in an accident, but did not know any details and the repairs had passed inspection by the state for titling.

At any rate, here are the pics. Tell me its not that bad and at worst my car will just have bad gaps on that side!?





...I also now realize that I did a pretty horrible job with the frame paint
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