joes69vette

I've finally started the rebuild of the rear suspension (and more) on my 69. I'm ready to start cutting out the trailing arms and have a question about the trailing arm shims. The shims on my car have a round hole on each end. Evidently these were used from 63-69 and shims with a slot and cotter pin were used from 70-82.

Vendors are selling the slotted shims with the cotter pins for 63-82 cars. I am not doing an NCRS restoration and using the slotted shims when putting it back together, I think, would make it go a little easier - and much easier at the shop when the alignment is being done if a shim has to be added or removed. There is a small hole in the frame on both sides on the frame pocket that looks like it could be used for the cotter pin. Has anyone used the later shims on the earlier cars and do they work? I'm assuming they will but want to be sure. I called one of the vendors to ask them but they were not even aware that two different types of shims were used!

Thanks for your help. I'm sure I'll have more questions further down the road.

Joe

Mike Ward

Well, that's frightening!

You can use the slotted shims, they'll work fine. Earlier cars can use them also if the hole for the cotter pin is drilled in the frame.

loup68

I would suggest buying stainless steel shims, making things easier down the road. Lou.

joes69vette

Thank you, both. I just needed that confirmation and I will go with stainless.

DUB

All I will add is that if you are doing new trailing arm bushings...and using the rubber style that REQUIRE them to be staked.....make sure that when completed. You make sure that the inner sleeve that gets staked and flared...is filed down or ground flat against the large thick flat washer.....so...your trailing arm shims rest against a good wide flat surface...instead of having a portion of the sleeve protruding and messing up the works.

Also...verify that your trailing arm bolts can pass through the sleeve WITHOUT EXCESSIVE slop. Some of the sleeves I have gotten I had to ream out just to get the bolt to go through.

lastly...if you are planning on re-using your trailing arms. MAKE SURE that the U-joint flange that is on the end of the spindle is CENTERED in the large hole that is stamped in your trailing arm. When you spin your spindle...look at the distance from the large hole to your U-joint flange. If it is wider on one side and narrower on the other...the trialing arm is tweaked and may need to be thrown away and replaced. AND if you use aftermarket polyurethane bushing you can do yourself...they are wider than stock bushings...and if you re-use a 'tweaked' arm....you just may screw yourself when you go to get it aligned due to the wider trailing arm bushings require less shims ( obviously) and this then in turn caused your amount of total adjustment of your toe to be effected...and you may find that you can not set the toe...because your trailing arm bushing is touching the frame and can not move more to get the toe correct.

I have been there...just letting you know.

DUB

joes69vette

Good info. I am going to have the TAs rebuilt - I'm not going to try to do it myself - but now I know a few more things to ask. Thanks DUB.

doorgunner

Good info that helped me solve my trailing arm/Toe problems!