When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have both the GTECH & Dynolitious. both are not very accurate for me vs track times, but this doesn't mean they are not useful. I also run at 2200 ft elevation which may be why my readings are off.
I like using the G's curve which shows me how its pulling and at what RPM the g's start to fall off. The phone app I could never get it to work but I am still using the old 3GS phone.
I think the accuracy deal is to have it secured to the vehicle snug like and a good signal! Regardless it is a good tool to check on any improvements you may have to the car. I have seen gtechs at the track and they are pretty accurate too.
I think the accuracy deal is to have it secured to the vehicle snug like and a good signal! Regardless it is a good tool to check on any improvements you may have to the car. I have seen gtechs at the track and they are pretty accurate too.
I dont have an iPhone, but for what its worth, on Android there's speed view which I've tested against torque pro, another that uses blue tooth and plugs in to my odb2 port on my truck and tested both at the strip, and with speed view, the satalite based data is all over the place, not consistent either way, torque pro doesn't take wheel slippage into account. There fun to play with the cool thing about torque pro is it gives estimated rear wheel horse power which was fairly close to my mph estimated rwhp.
I think the accuracy deal is to have it secured to the vehicle snug like and a good signal! Regardless it is a good tool to check on any improvements you may have to the car. I have seen gtechs at the track and they are pretty accurate too.
My Gtech is a PRO RR. for an example of results.
actual track 1/4 13.2 gtech 12.6 I find 1 in 6 runs is within 1/10th. I would be happy if it was +/- 2/10th most of the time. But the G's graph is what I most look at. HP ratings are all over the place from 244-325 ? MPH trap speed it is always high by 7-12 MPH.
But its still a better tool for quick checking vs your own impression.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Does a dynamometer tell the turth ?
Well my only experience with my auto trans camaro on a dyno says it lies about an automatics hp & torque but is still invaluable as a tuning tool. The automatic trans torque converter has a viscous coupling that at some speeds doesnt even engage and at other speeds it becomes a torque multiplier. Also it is a hydraulic pump and using the pump laws for power the speed of a hyd pump is proportional to the cube of the power input meaning the faster the pump goes the more power is needed to make it go faster by a exponential factor of 3.
Use the dyno for a tool, not for absolute numbers. The true test of how much power a car is making or how fast a car is, is by trap speed in the 1/4 mile...
On a chasis Dyno, there is way too many variables to skew the readings, a stall converter can kill 50-75hp on a chasis dyno, yet make you faster at the track.
Thats very correct and even with a manual trans your not going to be able to control air temperatures inside the dyno shop - sometimes even oxy levels in the shop are harmful to power (and the people inside - be careful). Lack of wind resistance on the car reduces the engine load at the dyno but a factor at the track. Using a tailpipe HEGO sensor wont see the same gas as a wideband HEGO in the header.
On top of it all dyno time is expensive. If u can get a Gtech to work and have the roads to test it with your really doing the same process - referencing improvements for changes and modifications.
Use the dyno for a tool, not for absolute numbers. The true test of how much power a car is making or how fast a car is, is by trap speed in the 1/4 mile...
On a chasis Dyno, there is way too many variables to skew the readings, a stall converter can kill 50-75hp on a chasis dyno, yet make you faster at the track.
The auto versus the stick makes no difference. If the guy running the dyno is experienced, he's looking to pull at a 1 to 1 ratio. On our old girls it's high gear. With an overdrive the operator needs to select the gear that puts them closest to a 1 to 1 ratio, meaning they might perform the pull in 3rd or whichever gear is closest. 15 to 20 loss through the driveline is about on par. My LS swap engine is somewhere north of 600 hp....at the crank. I'm hoping for at least 450 hp at the wheels. Now you know what ate up a LOT of hp trying to get it to the ground.
Converter also can really affect what the chassis dyno "reads"
My old motor made north of 750 hp and only showed a 536 at the wheels on the chassis dyno
Car ran mid 9's all day on motor alone so it doesnt tell the whole story not even close.
Hi Pat, I've not ever dynoed a stick car, but what the guy who owned the dyno that autos can eat up to twice the power and everything I've read on the subject seems to support what he said.
The auto versus the stick makes no difference. If the guy running the dyno is experienced, he's looking to pull at a 1 to 1 ratio.........
OK, I misunderstood........the testing procedure is the same, but the auto definitely uses more power than the stick car. Mine on my current sb427 came out to 22% loss. Many sticks are closer to 15%.
I went from 657hp/675tq on the engine dyno..(I dynoed it personally) to 460hp/480tq in the car... That's going from 2" dyno headers and no exhaust to 1 7/8" car headers and full 3" exhaust/muffs, full accessories, T400 w/10" converter, heavy IRS diff/half shafts, drag radials. Both engine and chasis dynos were in SAE....So that's roughly 30% loss in my car.
Yet at 3660lbs it has been 128mph... Which obviously is stronger then 460 rwhp would indicate...
I went from 657hp/675tq on the engine dyno..(I dynoed it personally) to 460hp/480tq in the car... That's going from 2" dyno headers and no exhaust to 1 7/8" car headers and full 3" exhaust/muffs, full accessories, T400 w/10" converter, heavy IRS diff/half shafts, drag radials. Both engine and chasis dynos were in SAE....So that's roughly 30% loss in my car.
Yet at 3660lbs it has been 128mph... Which obviously is stronger then 460 rwhp would indicate...