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Does a dynamometer tell the turth ?

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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:26 AM
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Default Does a dynamometer tell the turth ?

Would to expects to get the same results with these setups ?
Assuming the same car and the same engine.
1. Auto Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
2. Manual Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
3. Manual Trans same rear but different gear ratio's.

I know auto vs manual will have difference results but do other changes also produced different results ?

Anyone have any before and after to show results ?

Assuming you can figure out the losses thur the drive train you should be able to get the same results for the gross HP of the engine and only RWHP would vary based on drive train configuration.

How well do dynamometer's, or can they even figure out drive train losses, or is this just a guess / estimate.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 10:17 AM
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Opened a can of worms here

The only way to figure out what your particular C3 has in drivetrain loss is to do what I did. Take the engine engine out and put it on an engine dyno and then put it on a chassis dyno. Mine resulted in a 23% loss.

Manual transmissions will have less loss than automatics with the TH400 topping the list. You can figure 20-25% or more. I would use a figure in the 22-23% for most C3's with manual transmission and 25% or more with the TH400 transmission.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 10:32 AM
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The chassis dyno tells the ugly truth. It tells you how much power you're actually putting to the ground. Does it matter that you have a 600 hp motor if it only puts 400 to the ground?

Many dreams have been shattered by the chassis dyno.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 11:11 AM
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How about a 700r4 compared to the stock TH350?
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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The first problem is getting accurate and consistent data from a chassis dyno. Test the same car on three different dynos and you'll get four different results.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
The first problem is getting accurate and consistent data from a chassis dyno. Test the same car on three different dynos and you'll get four different results.
+1

Use the dyno for a tool, not for absolute numbers. The true test of how much power a car is making or how fast a car is, is by trap speed in the 1/4 mile...

On a chasis Dyno, there is way too many variables to skew the readings, a stall converter can kill 50-75hp on a chasis dyno, yet make you faster at the track.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
Would to expects to get the same results with these setups ?
Assuming the same car and the same engine.
1. Auto Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
2. Manual Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
3. Manual Trans same rear but different gear ratio's.

I know auto vs manual will have difference results but do other changes also produced different results ?
Yes, these things will have an impact. First off, taller(lower numerically) gears will dyno a bit higher than shorter. As mentioned above, autos have more loss than manuals.
Assuming you can figure out the losses thur the drive train you should be able to get the same results for the gross HP of the engine and only RWHP would vary based on drive train configuration.

How well do dynamometer's, or can they even figure out drive train losses, or is this just a guess / estimate.
They can to an extent, but every machine has a margin of error, and to do this "right" would be next to impossible. You'd have to dyno the engine *exactly* as configured in the car (same exhaust, intake system) and then dyno it in the car back to back.

On top of that, environmental conditions would need to be the same (humidity, temperature, elevation). Pretty easy to guarantee the elevation part, not so much the other two.

Every dyno is different. Dynos of the same manufacturer/model will be close to each other, but one could have worn bearings or be running a bit hotter vs another and although the software will correct for that, it's not perfect.

So it's still a big guessing game.

Dynos are fun for bragging about which engine has more power.

They're a useful tool for determining whether or not your modifications have made an improvement in power.

They are not going to tell you whose car is fastest, though.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 02:56 PM
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While chassis dyno data are very useful in tuning a given car on a given day, there are too many additional variables in play to accurately extrapolate HP differences at the flywheel between differently set up cars, especially if there's no conditional correction...

As for engine dyno data, unless any two sets of results are corrected to a particular standard, such as those prescribed under SAE J1349, the numbers generated for any two engines can only be considered reference points. Think that's no big deal? I submit that 1) if you happen to be guarantying a build's HP/TQ production, it certainly would be, and 2) you definitely wouldn't want for the spec series mill you've been assigned for the season to have been tuned on a 'high-HP" day without correction (BTDT). My $.02 worth, earned at significant greater expense.



.

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Sep 28, 2014 at 02:15 AM. Reason: sp
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 06:44 PM
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If YOU owned a dyno shop, and some local boyz wanted to see how much power their cars could produce, how would YOU calibrate your dyno?

a) calibrate it to give accurate results (knowing that they will be terribly disappointed); OR

b) 'rig' the calibration to give them some 'nice answers'.

Dyno shops can calibrate their equipment to give any kind of results they want. If you want accurate results, tell them you want proper calibration for the dyno.

Be aware that some 'fly-by-night' dyno shops may not even know how to properly calibrate their stuff. They just run the equipment and hand you some paper.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
How about a 700r4 compared to the stock TH350?
A 700r4 is up there with the 400. The guy that use to have the chasis dyno here in Anchorage said that the 700r4 was the worst. Others here on the forum beg to differ and say the turbo 400 is the worst. Most agree that for autos the power glide wins for least amount of loss in an auto.

DO MA NEU!
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by zwede
The chassis dyno tells the ugly truth. It tells you how much power you're actually putting to the ground. Does it matter that you have a 600 hp motor if it only puts 400 to the ground?

Many dreams have been shattered by the chassis dyno.
Ok lets say the engine has 400 HP TH350 with a 3.08 and the dyno peaks at 325 HP and 350 Torque. Should you get the same results if you change to a 3.73 Rear ? Anyone have some real results.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
Ok lets say the engine has 400 HP TH350 with a 3.08 and the dyno peaks at 325 HP and 350 Torque. Should you get the same results if you change to a 3.73 Rear ? Anyone have some real results.
......Yes......when I had my 383, with 3.55 gears, it dynoed at 373 rwhp. After a change to 4.11 gears (no other changes), it dynoed at the same 373 rwhp. No change. The dyno operator told me that the rear gear ratio in high gear ( 1 to 1) makes no difference in readings. You have the same engine, it cannot magically gain in horsepower. Because of the torque the stiffer gears give you to accelerate faster, what changes is the time to get to your higher rpm. But the horsepower reading at the same rpms is constant on both charts. I checked my numbers and saw this to be true.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
Would to expects to get the same results with these setups ?
Assuming the same car and the same engine.
1. Auto Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
2. Manual Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
3. Manual Trans same rear but different gear ratio's.

I know auto vs manual will have difference results but do other changes also produced different results ?

Anyone have any before and after to show results ?

Assuming you can figure out the losses thur the drive train you should be able to get the same results for the gross HP of the engine and only RWHP would vary based on drive train configuration.

How well do dynamometer's, or can they even figure out drive train losses, or is this just a guess / estimate.
I just found a great tool or AAP for my phone for this. It is called Dynolitious fusion and it seems to be as accurate as a Gtech pro but only cost $13 . Give it a try, I've been having a blast using it and compared to some timeslips it is quite accurate.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If YOU owned a dyno shop, and some local boyz wanted to see how much power their cars could produce, how would YOU calibrate your dyno?

a) calibrate it to give accurate results (knowing that they will be terribly disappointed); OR

b) 'rig' the calibration to give them some 'nice answers'.

Dyno shops can calibrate their equipment to give any kind of results they want. If you want accurate results, tell them you want proper calibration for the dyno.

Be aware that some 'fly-by-night' dyno shops may not even know how to properly calibrate their stuff. They just run the equipment and hand you some paper.
Factor these comments in to stated figures from some of the performance 'crate' engine suppliers and the real truth is often somewhat s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d. Known of such engines supplied for race purposes where customers been disapointed with results - had the engines subsequently put on a dyno and being nowhere near suppliers figures - 15% less than stated is not unusual!
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by widowmaker221
I just found a great tool or AAP for my phone for this. It is called Dynolitious fusion and it seems to be as accurate as a Gtech pro but only cost $13 . Give it a try, I've been having a blast using it and compared to some timeslips it is quite accurate.
I have both the GTECH & Dynolitious. both are not very accurate for me vs track times, but this doesn't mean they are not useful. I also run at 2200 ft elevation which may be why my readings are off.
I like using the G's curve which shows me how its pulling and at what RPM the g's start to fall off. The phone app I could never get it to work but I am still using the old 3GS phone.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
......Yes......when I had my 383, with 3.55 gears, it dynoed at 373 rwhp. After a change to 4.11 gears (no other changes), it dynoed at the same 373 rwhp. No change. The dyno operator told me that the rear gear ratio in high gear ( 1 to 1) makes no difference in readings. You have the same engine, it cannot magically gain in horsepower. Because of the torque the stiffer gears give you to accelerate faster, what changes is the time to get to your higher rpm. But the horsepower reading at the same rpms is constant on both charts. I checked my numbers and saw this to be true.
Thanks that was what I was hoping to see. What transmission gear did they use for the testing ?

Last edited by cagotzmann; Sep 28, 2014 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
Thanks that was what I was hoping to see. What gear did they use for the testing ?
By gear, do you mean trans gear?......I have a TH400 auto trans, so the runs were done in high gear (3rd on 3 speed auto), 1 to 1 like driving on the street. If you have an overdrive trans or manual, runs are usually done in your 1 to 1 ratio gear.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
By gear, do you mean trans gear?......I have a TH400 auto trans, so the runs were done in high gear (3rd on 3 speed auto), 1 to 1 like driving on the street. If you have an overdrive trans or manual, runs are usually done in your 1 to 1 ratio gear.
I find that interesting, but using your 1:1 gear doesn't makes sense you would need to reach top speed of the car to cover the complete RPM Range. I would think you could use any gear and get the same results.
So how do they prevent the auto transmission from down shifting. Do you need to disconnect the kickdown cable ?

Last edited by cagotzmann; Sep 28, 2014 at 09:35 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by roscobbc
Factor these comments in to stated figures from some of the performance 'crate' engine suppliers and the real truth is often somewhat s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d. Known of such engines supplied for race purposes where customers been disapointed with results - had the engines subsequently put on a dyno and being nowhere near suppliers figures - 15% less than stated is not unusual!
The reason for this is simple. In many cases crate engines are rated using gross horsepower.
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
I find that interesting, but using your 1:1 gear doesn't makes sense you would need to reach top speed of the car to cover the complete RPM Range. I would think you could use any gear and get the same results.
So how do they prevent the auto transmission from down shifting. Do you need to disconnect the kickdown cable ?
Yes, you do reach top vehicle speed on the dyno run. It is necessary to run through the gears slowly, reaching top gear before flooring the accelerator to properly load the dyno. You can't just tromp the pedal or it won't load (which is probably why you can't just use low gear for your run).

Driving with an auto trans is tricky, there is some technique involved as you have to get above the rpm that would downshift with the pedal floored before your measurement begins. For me, that was between 3500 and 4000 rpm. Or, as you mentioned, you could disconnect your kickdown cable. There is no kickdown cable on a '69 TH400, hence the tricky driving. Also, with a high stall converter, it will flash, and torque readings may spike before settling down. Despite the wicked looking torque curve, the HP curve was steady.

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