Does a dynamometer tell the turth ?
Assuming the same car and the same engine.
1. Auto Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
2. Manual Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
3. Manual Trans same rear but different gear ratio's.
I know auto vs manual will have difference results but do other changes also produced different results ?
Anyone have any before and after to show results ?
Assuming you can figure out the losses thur the drive train you should be able to get the same results for the gross HP of the engine and only RWHP would vary based on drive train configuration.
How well do dynamometer's, or can they even figure out drive train losses, or is this just a guess / estimate.






The only way to figure out what your particular C3 has in drivetrain loss is to do what I did. Take the engine engine out and put it on an engine dyno and then put it on a chassis dyno. Mine resulted in a 23% loss.
Manual transmissions will have less loss than automatics with the TH400 topping the list. You can figure 20-25% or more. I would use a figure in the 22-23% for most C3's with manual transmission and 25% or more with the TH400 transmission.
Many dreams have been shattered by the chassis dyno.
Use the dyno for a tool, not for absolute numbers. The true test of how much power a car is making or how fast a car is, is by trap speed in the 1/4 mile...
On a chasis Dyno, there is way too many variables to skew the readings, a stall converter can kill 50-75hp on a chasis dyno, yet make you faster at the track.
Assuming the same car and the same engine.
1. Auto Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
2. Manual Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
3. Manual Trans same rear but different gear ratio's.
I know auto vs manual will have difference results but do other changes also produced different results ?
How well do dynamometer's, or can they even figure out drive train losses, or is this just a guess / estimate.
On top of that, environmental conditions would need to be the same (humidity, temperature, elevation). Pretty easy to guarantee the elevation part, not so much the other two.
Every dyno is different. Dynos of the same manufacturer/model will be close to each other, but one could have worn bearings or be running a bit hotter vs another and although the software will correct for that, it's not perfect.
So it's still a big guessing game.
Dynos are fun for bragging about which engine has more power.
They're a useful tool for determining whether or not your modifications have made an improvement in power.
They are not going to tell you whose car is fastest, though.





As for engine dyno data, unless any two sets of results are corrected to a particular standard, such as those prescribed under SAE J1349, the numbers generated for any two engines can only be considered reference points. Think that's no big deal? I submit that 1) if you happen to be guarantying a build's HP/TQ production, it certainly would be, and 2) you definitely wouldn't want for the spec series mill you've been assigned for the season to have been tuned on a 'high-HP" day without correction (BTDT). My $.02 worth, earned at significant greater expense.
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Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Sep 28, 2014 at 02:15 AM. Reason: sp
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a) calibrate it to give accurate results (knowing that they will be terribly disappointed); OR
b) 'rig' the calibration to give them some 'nice answers'.
Dyno shops can calibrate their equipment to give any kind of results they want. If you want accurate results, tell them you want proper calibration for the dyno.
Be aware that some 'fly-by-night' dyno shops may not even know how to properly calibrate their stuff. They just run the equipment and hand you some paper.
DO MA NEU!
Assuming the same car and the same engine.
1. Auto Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
2. Manual Trans 3.08 rear vs 3.73 rear
3. Manual Trans same rear but different gear ratio's.
I know auto vs manual will have difference results but do other changes also produced different results ?
Anyone have any before and after to show results ?
Assuming you can figure out the losses thur the drive train you should be able to get the same results for the gross HP of the engine and only RWHP would vary based on drive train configuration.
How well do dynamometer's, or can they even figure out drive train losses, or is this just a guess / estimate.
a) calibrate it to give accurate results (knowing that they will be terribly disappointed); OR
b) 'rig' the calibration to give them some 'nice answers'.
Dyno shops can calibrate their equipment to give any kind of results they want. If you want accurate results, tell them you want proper calibration for the dyno.
Be aware that some 'fly-by-night' dyno shops may not even know how to properly calibrate their stuff. They just run the equipment and hand you some paper.
I like using the G's curve which shows me how its pulling and at what RPM the g's start to fall off. The phone app I could never get it to work but I am still using the old 3GS phone.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Sep 28, 2014 at 09:39 PM.
So how do they prevent the auto transmission from down shifting. Do you need to disconnect the kickdown cable ?
Last edited by cagotzmann; Sep 28, 2014 at 09:35 PM.
So how do they prevent the auto transmission from down shifting. Do you need to disconnect the kickdown cable ?
Driving with an auto trans is tricky, there is some technique involved as you have to get above the rpm that would downshift with the pedal floored before your measurement begins. For me, that was between 3500 and 4000 rpm. Or, as you mentioned, you could disconnect your kickdown cable. There is no kickdown cable on a '69 TH400, hence the tricky driving. Also, with a high stall converter, it will flash, and torque readings may spike before settling down. Despite the wicked looking torque curve, the HP curve was steady.
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