Head lamp actuator ?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 1,231
From: Madeira Beach, FL
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Head lamp actuator ?
hello everyone,
I used my miti vac to test the rear ports, red line connection on both of my actuators.
I pumped them up to about 25 inch lbs. In about 30 minutes I went out and rechecked them. They had dropped to about half like 11-15 inch lbs.
I know the back port keeps them down and if the large diaphragm is shot they are not rebuild able. I can pump the tool and get them to raise and lower. When I start the car the drivers headlight and wiper door raise for several minutes then lower themselves.
The front port on both at the green hose connection was bout the same loss.
Before I replace the front seals and have to do the job twice my ? Is should the rear port hold vac indefinitely?
If I replace both actuating units as an assy can expect the same loss or will they hold as long as vac is present?.
I purchased both front seals and was going to replace maybe over next week but got to thinking I better ask here first so I don't have to do the job twice.
Thanks,
Marshal
I used my miti vac to test the rear ports, red line connection on both of my actuators.
I pumped them up to about 25 inch lbs. In about 30 minutes I went out and rechecked them. They had dropped to about half like 11-15 inch lbs.
I know the back port keeps them down and if the large diaphragm is shot they are not rebuild able. I can pump the tool and get them to raise and lower. When I start the car the drivers headlight and wiper door raise for several minutes then lower themselves.
The front port on both at the green hose connection was bout the same loss.
Before I replace the front seals and have to do the job twice my ? Is should the rear port hold vac indefinitely?
If I replace both actuating units as an assy can expect the same loss or will they hold as long as vac is present?.
I purchased both front seals and was going to replace maybe over next week but got to thinking I better ask here first so I don't have to do the job twice.
Thanks,
Marshal
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 1,818
hello everyone,
I used my miti vac to test the rear ports, red line connection on both of my actuators.
I pumped them up to about 25 inch lbs. In about 30 minutes I went out and rechecked them. They had dropped to about half like 11-15 inch lbs.
I know the back port keeps them down and if the large diaphragm is shot they are not rebuild able. I can pump the tool and get them to raise and lower. When I start the car the drivers headlight and wiper door raise for several minutes then lower themselves.
The front port on both at the green hose connection was bout the same loss.
Before I replace the front seals and have to do the job twice my ? Is should the rear port hold vac indefinitely?
If I replace both actuating units as an assy can expect the same loss or will they hold as long as vac is present?.
I purchased both front seals and was going to replace maybe over next week but got to thinking I better ask here first so I don't have to do the job twice.
Thanks,
Marshal
I used my miti vac to test the rear ports, red line connection on both of my actuators.
I pumped them up to about 25 inch lbs. In about 30 minutes I went out and rechecked them. They had dropped to about half like 11-15 inch lbs.
I know the back port keeps them down and if the large diaphragm is shot they are not rebuild able. I can pump the tool and get them to raise and lower. When I start the car the drivers headlight and wiper door raise for several minutes then lower themselves.
The front port on both at the green hose connection was bout the same loss.
Before I replace the front seals and have to do the job twice my ? Is should the rear port hold vac indefinitely?
If I replace both actuating units as an assy can expect the same loss or will they hold as long as vac is present?.
I purchased both front seals and was going to replace maybe over next week but got to thinking I better ask here first so I don't have to do the job twice.
Thanks,
Marshal
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 1,231
From: Madeira Beach, FL
2024 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Sorry c5 guys I posted in wrong section hopefully moderator will catch and move to tech sect in c3 and I will receive 2 demerits for such behavior
Thanks,
Marshal
Thanks,
Marshal
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 154
From: Deplorableville Nebraska
When I start the car the drivers headlight and wiper door raise for several minutes then lower themselves.
The small loss of vacuum at the actuators you're experiencing would not cause the problem. At the rate of vacuum loss you have, check the Mityvac with a section of blocked hose only to verify it's not leaking past it's internal seals.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 1,231
From: Madeira Beach, FL
2024 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Dave,
Thanks for the response.
I recently replaced the two actuator relays.
68 has 1 for the head light actuators and 1 for the wiper doors.
It doesn't preclude that one could be leaking
I'll also verify the miti vac is not leaking internally.
Thanks,
Marshal
Thanks for the response.
I recently replaced the two actuator relays.
68 has 1 for the head light actuators and 1 for the wiper doors.
It doesn't preclude that one could be leaking
I'll also verify the miti vac is not leaking internally.
Thanks,
Marshal
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,270
Likes: 4
From: Celeste Texas
I tried resealing mine and still ended up replacing them. When you do replace them make sure the vendor you choose sends you a matched pair. The right angle ports on the back side should point in opposite directions. The vendor I chose sent me two lefts and wouldn't make it right.
Bill
Bill
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 1,231
From: Madeira Beach, FL
2024 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Bill,
thanks for the heads up on the left and right actuators
Hopefully who ever I order from gets it right.
But at least I know now to look for it.
Marshal
thanks for the heads up on the left and right actuators
Hopefully who ever I order from gets it right.
But at least I know now to look for it.
Marshal
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Brett Foote
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Marshal,
My understanding is that:
First the green hose, (straight port,) should be disconnected. If the vacuum holds on that port the internal diaphragm is good. If it doesn't hold the vacuum, the internal seal is leaking… and there is no repair.
Then disconnect the red hose, (curved port), and the vacuum checked at that port. If the vacuum holds and then drops, but was better, (lasted longer), on the green hose's straight port, the small rear sealing grommet should be replaced.
Given the length of time your actuators are holding the vacuum I think replacing the small seals are worth the try.$$$
Regards,
Alan
My understanding is that:
First the green hose, (straight port,) should be disconnected. If the vacuum holds on that port the internal diaphragm is good. If it doesn't hold the vacuum, the internal seal is leaking… and there is no repair.
Then disconnect the red hose, (curved port), and the vacuum checked at that port. If the vacuum holds and then drops, but was better, (lasted longer), on the green hose's straight port, the small rear sealing grommet should be replaced.
Given the length of time your actuators are holding the vacuum I think replacing the small seals are worth the try.$$$
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 1,231
From: Madeira Beach, FL
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Alan,
Thanks for providing the correct procedures for testing the actuators.
I did it incorrectly. I tested each port with the other line still attached.
Thanks
Marshal
Thanks for providing the correct procedures for testing the actuators.
I did it incorrectly. I tested each port with the other line still attached.
Thanks
Marshal