OK, silly question time...can the upper control arm bolts (that mount the cross shaft to the frame) be replaced with the suspension in tact? I decided to get a spreader bar and realized that when I put the suspension back together I put the bolts in backwards. The head of the bolt is facing in with the nuts on the frame side. They will have to come out to install the spreader bar, i'm just not sure if that bolt is under tension and may cause the upper arm to pop out of place when I take them out?

 

I think if you first jack the front off the ground before you loosen the bolts the weight of the suspension w/the tire will keep the shaft snug against the frame.Not 100% sure though.

 

Thanks, that's a good idea. Ill do one side at a time as well. If I don't get any conflicting info ill just jack it up and loosen them to see how much pressure is on the bolt. Rookie mistake!

 

im not sure if i had the car in the air for the front end to keep the arms from pulling away, which doesn't probably matter much unless the shims get lost or mixed up.tighten the cross brace with wheels on the ground.

 

the front end has been redone anyway and there are no shims right now (don't worry, I will be putting them in). When I took over the project if was partially apart and the shims were gone, so I am starting from scratch. Ill use the spreader to set the towers to factory spec and then shim from there.

 

Do them one bolt at a time!
If you need to do both for the spreader bar then you have to take the tension off of the upper arm.
Best way to do that is with a floor jack and a 4 ft piece of chain.
wrap the chain around the frame and be careful of the brake line then bolt the chain together and put the bottom loop under the front jack wheels. Jack up on to the lower control arm and it will unload the upper arm. You then can take the bolts out and the arm will just sit there.
Old school trick!
Dave

 

I just did both of mine to replace the upper control arm bushings.
Just raise the car til the wheel is off the ground. The shock holds the lower control arm in place. Unbolt the upper cross shaft bolts, no tension on it except for the weight of the brake/spindle/steering knuckle. Assuming you have the wheel off.

 

Thanks guys, I actually got this done today. The rear side slipped up a little on me when I removed the bolt. I used a ratchet strap to pull it back down. Used it as a precaution on the other three and didn't have any issues (one at a time). Once I got a game plan it only took about an hour. Spreader bar and shims are in! Now I just got to get it running and over to the alignment shop!

 

You are AWARE that these long bolts are SPECIAL....and not just a bolt. These bolts have splines under the head that allow you to STAKE them into the perch bracket...so they do not spin when tightening/loosening the nut(which should also be a specific swedge nut) for an alignment. IF your splines are wiped out...you can buy them and go from there.

Actually...I would raise the car...remove the wheels...then place a jack stand under the control arms..and set the car down again. This will allow the upper a-arm to raise upwards so you gain easy access to the nuts on the inside. LOOSEN both nuts a little bit....the a-arm cross shaft will move inwards...then remove a bolt/nut assembly...switch it around and tighten it ALMOST all the way...then to the other one. When you are going to tighten the nuts up...raise the car off the jack stand...which will pull the cross shaft to the perch and tighten them up. Just make sure that the head is seated against the perch FLUSH when you drive it in place to lock the splines in the perch bracket.

Just keep in mind that you can hold the head of this splined bolt if needed....but TRUST ME....if it spins...it will not be an easy task to do when the car is being aligned. SO..I keep these splined bolts in stock for just this reason. You will find that overlooking or not addressing this issue...if they spin...and you get to the alignment shop...it is NO FUN trying to hold the bolt head a tighten the nut at the same time. it can be done...I have done it...but it is NO FUN.

DUB

 

OOPS...I was typing when you posted you are done.

DUB

 

Dub, thanks for the post. Actually, I did not realize they were special bolts, I do NOT have those. Yes it was a bit of a pain to hold them while tightening the nut, but not all that bad with a flex ratchet and U-joint.

 

They are special grade 8 bolts. you DO want to replace them with the correct ones.
Dave

 

My car is as unstock not correct as anyone's but I would only have the factory bolts for this one.

 

AS written in an above post...it is WELL WORTH YOUR TIME to get the correct bolts.

DUB

 

Just a note to those who may come across this thread later. Regarding the special serration under the head of the bolt.

When working on these bolts TURN THE NUT NOT THE BOLT! If you turn the bolt, which is the logical thing to do, you will strip out the serrations. ASK ME HOW I KNOW.

This can lead to all kinds of problems when it comes to trying to tighten the shim bolts after an alignment.

The only way to get at the nuts is by raising up the upper control arm until you can access. Back the nut off and then drift the bolt out so it is free turning. Then use a socket to hold the head.

Hope this helps others in the future.

 

Well I can see that it would be easier with those bolts. They are simply grade 8 bolts with serrations to hold them in the pocket though, basically a wheel stud. I have a set on the way, but it really wanst that bad to get to them. the first side took a little time, but the pass side took me all of 10 min to turn both around. It would be annoying if I had to do it over and over (as the alignment shop would).

 

Just for the record......crazy guys like myself who Autocross old Vettes with tons of shims in them......we use long wheel studs for a mid 60's Chevelle/Camaro for upper Aarm bolts, their knurl is about the same as the coarse thread GM bolts.

 

YES Vette-kid,

Having to hold the head of the bolt is a ROYAL PAIN....and if it can be avoided...it is worth getting the bolts to hold correctly.

Nothing is worse to be leaning over into the engine compartment beginning the front end alignment and having to mess with the shims and the nut(s) just spins and does not loosen. I let out a few 'good words' and then have to get 'the contraption' together so I can hold the head of the bolts and loosen the nut.

Solid LT1. Thanks for the tip. Sounds like a really good idea. Have you had one of them ever spin...and knowing that there is no hex head to grab onto...how did you get it out???...or did you tack weld them in place...like I have come across from time to time.

DUB