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Hydroboost Brake Upgade: Looking for Comments

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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 03:05 AM
  #21  
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i was planning on putting in a hydroboost system over winter, since my booster is leaking. but i had also assumed it helped improve the braking performance too.

are there any better designed/performing vacuum boosters out there now? or should i just stick with an OE replacement?
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by another-user
i was planning on putting in a hydroboost system over winter, since my booster is leaking. but i had also assumed it helped improve the braking performance too.

are there any better designed/performing vacuum boosters out there now? or should i just stick with an OE replacement?
If you are planning on replacing the booster BEFORE you change over to a Hydroboost. I would be careful.

What year are you putting git in????...It makes difference.

And more importantly... what side is you oil dipstick located????

DUB
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
If you are planning on replacing the booster BEFORE you change over to a Hydroboost. I would be careful.

What year are you putting git in????...It makes difference.

And more importantly... what side is you oil dipstick located????

DUB
its going to be a "one or the other" thing. if i dont replace the booster, ill throw a hydroboost in instead.

its going in my 69 small block, and my dipstick is between plugs 5 - 7. i think....
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by another-user
its going to be a "one or the other" thing. if i dont replace the booster, ill throw a hydroboost in instead.

its going in my 69 small block, and my dipstick is between plugs 5 - 7. i think....
If you dipstick is on the drivers side...the booster is different than that of the Corvettes where GM moved the dipstick to the passenger side.

The booster for your car is stamped completely different...and it is stamped out in a way that if the oil dipstick is correctly installed and positioned...you can get to the handle of the dipstick and pull it out easily and re-install it without obstruction. IF you put a booster from the later years...it conflicts with the dipstick...which will have to be bent and moved to clear the booster outer housing.

The later years have a recessed 'pocket' in the stamping of the outer housing...and when the master cylinder fits to it...you can NOT see the contact point of the master cylinder where it touches the booster because it is tucked back inside this stamping. The early design is the other way...the outer housing is stamped and the mounting area for the master cylinder pokes outwards (so-to-speak) and you can clearly see the contact point where the master cylinder touches the booster.

DUB
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 11:15 PM
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If you have enough vacuum I would consider not going with the Hboost initially. I had a new motor built, which in the end seems like it would have enough vacuum and went with HBoost. I am not "sure" that I really like it ... it feels a little overboosted. I big Wilwoods as well. I might end up pulling it off one of these days! I just hate that big, old Vac can!
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by carbster09
If you have enough vacuum I would consider not going with the Hboost initially. I had a new motor built, which in the end seems like it would have enough vacuum and went with HBoost. I am not "sure" that I really like it ... it feels a little overboosted. I big Wilwoods as well. I might end up pulling it off one of these days! I just hate that big, old Vac can!
That's my experience as well driving cars with hydroboost……Big overboosted brakes does nothing for improving brake performance…see my earlier comments. In certain situations that very light brake pedal can upset the car greatly leading to trouble….
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 09:04 AM
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I have a local vette friend that jumps on everything new. Hydroboosted wildwood D4 &D6 and hydraulic clutch TKO 600.

This is just me, but I have a hard time driving his car. It is jerky and odd with no pedal feel. I hate the clutch.

My present motor is about 9 inches of vacuum @ 1200 rpm idle. yes it is a little over cammed solid roller. My braking and steering is fine. It is good enough to run it around a 4.2 mile road racing track and drive on my local mountain roads around Lake Tahoe
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
That's my experience as well driving cars with hydroboost……Big overboosted brakes does nothing for improving brake performance…see my earlier comments. In certain situations that very light brake pedal can upset the car greatly leading to trouble….


I have driven 2 C3s and a '69 Camaro with hydroboost, and they all felt overboosted and touchy. Didn't really like the weird pedal feel, to be honest.

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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I have a local vette friend that jumps on everything new. Hydroboosted wildwood D4 &D6 and hydraulic clutch TKO 600.

This is just me, but I have a hard time driving his car. It is jerky and odd with no pedal feel. I hate the clutch.

My present motor is about 9 inches of vacuum @ 1200 rpm idle. yes it is a little over cammed solid roller. My braking and steering is fine. It is good enough to run it around a 4.2 mile road racing track and drive on my local mountain roads around Lake Tahoe
What do you hate about the clutch? I too have a hydraulic TKO600. Driven many "clutched" cars over the years......can't say it inspires me one way or another, but I don't race it either.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 7t2vette


I have driven 2 C3s and a '69 Camaro with hydroboost, and they all felt overboosted and touchy. Didn't really like the weird pedal feel, to be honest.

Thanks for the info, I am concerned about how much vacuum my new engine will pull, the people involved with the build say I should have plenty. I am not familiar with solid roller motors so when I saw the specs, I was/am a little concerned. except for the engine, which is still a carbed push rod engine, I really want to keep the car as period correct as possible without sacrificing safety. My feeling is if you want fuel injection, rack and pinion steering, re-engineered drive train geometry...etc, buy a C4 or C5. Probably cost less in the long run.

That said, I think if ya got lots of power and race/often push the limits of the car, then that is a different story completely as I know some of you do.


For now, I decided to modify the 1" AFR spacer by adding a 3/8" NPT to 8 AN fitting and to it, attach a 45 degree 8AN swivel and stainless braided hose to the vacuum booster. Looks like it will clear everything and didn't cost much to do.

Really short on funds, engine build is way more then I figured and I just closed on a deal Friday to purchase a 1992 ZR1 that has been in the works sense last spring. My wife is a saint.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by KJL
What do you hate about the clutch? I too have a hydraulic TKO600. Driven many "clutched" cars over the years......can't say it inspires me one way or another, but I don't race it either.
The hydraulic clutch pedal is just so different that I have to think about taking off from a stop light. It is the lack of feel. Of course if I drove it every day I would get used to it.

The brakes are the same thing. If I drove it enough I would get used to lack of resistance. Just a learning curve.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
The hydraulic clutch pedal is just so different that I have to think about taking off from a stop light. It is the lack of feel. Of course if I drove it every day I would get used to it.

The brakes are the same thing. If I drove it enough I would get used to lack of resistance. Just a learning curve.
I dunno man, I like the idea my foot don't drop 4" or so to the ground before sharkey stands on the nose and MY nose goes into the horn button......I LIKE that travel to be about ~2" call it confidence....


Last edited by mrvette; Nov 10, 2014 at 12:27 PM.
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