I ordered a couple door ajar plates from Paragon and scratching my head as to how you install them. The access area above the frame is just a small hole about the size of a thumb, so there's no way the square plate is going to fit through it to be riveted in place.





I figured that I would cut a slot on the bottom of the fiberglass jut out to slip it in place, then just patch it back up. But, it was obvious that the plate shouldn't be square to begin with. No biggie, I have a grinder.





Figured this was a good time to test the new door ajar switches for fit. No again! Argh...

Ok, I just tried it again. I was able to drive it in using a small socket and some lube. But that was on a bench and well supported. Once the plate is riveted onto the fiberglass I don't want to be pounding on it like that. I hope I can find the original plastic connector off the old harness to compare the diameter.





I'm open to suggestions, AKA, h.e.l.p....

 

Found and old one and the round plastic wire connector is exactly the same diameter, so that's good. Think I'll start pointing my finger at the plate itself. Seems to me I've seen a plate that was shaped properly somewhere online.

 

I should have done all of this before posting. The plates I found, the square one and the angled one (correct for me) are both listed for 68-76 Corvette with the same description. Makes restoration life soooo easy, right?

The one I have...




And hopefully the correct one...





I'm thinking the correct looking one shouldn't have the extra rivet hole, and whether it will fit through the hole in the cage is yet to be seen. Still might have to cut a portion of the glass to install it. Has anyone done this?

 

YES. Many times.

DUB

 

Good info. Thanks!

 

Just keep in mind that some years have a ground wire going to this plate...and is a part of it due to the switch is not bringing a ground to it. I think the 1975 I recently repaired this area had the ground wire attached to this plate. NOT all of them do....it all depends if you have a ground wire in the connector for this door ajar switch.

Come in from the very bottom so you can fill in the slot and basically never see it . I use a wire long enough so I can thread it into the body and some left hanging out of the slot you cut in the body. This long wire will allow you to pull up the plate and then pull the wire out through the bottom due to being long enough to do so.

NOW. Tie a knot in the wire in the middle and have it be large enough so it will not pass through the center hole in the plate.

Make another wire the same way...knot and length. This wire will be used for the top rivet hole.

Now using wires...fish them up through your slot/hole and get them to come out. Do one for the top hole and then attach it to the wire that you have in the plate already...then do the center hole.

Pull the wires carefully and the plate will come up to the body so you can install the pop rivets. Install the lower pop rivet and get it to lightly hold...then pull out the top wire while still holding on the center wire..and install that pop rivet. Pull both rivets.and remove the center wire and you are done. Then fix the slot/hole that is on the underside of the triangle shaped horizontal flat surface of the jamb that you can see when laying on the ground..

DUB

 

I love the creativity from you people!

You know, just when I was starting to think rebuilding the steering column was a job...along comes a door ajar switch! LOL.

 

You can do this without cutting any fiberglass. There is access through the portion of the birdcage behind the rear interior quarter panel. It isn't easy, but it is possible...I replaced both sides this way. You will have to do it in a manner similar to what DUB posted, by using a fish wire to get the plate into place and to hold it while you set the rivets.

 

BUT NOT all years will allow this so easily. This is why it was faster for me to do a repair instead of fighting for hours to get a plate replaced.

DUB

 

I haven't revisited this in awhile, but have the correct plate now. However, things still don't fit, so took a few pics to demonstrate. I saw where Willcox posted some info in a thread, but no info on the fit of the switch itself (aside from a pic of one installed). So what did you folks do?





Parts and labels. This is for a 72.





The threads were buggered up on the plates, so ran a chase through them to make sure there would be no threading issues. This is as far as the plastic connector will go.





Another pic showing the plastic connector. What have you folks done to make this work?





I was thinking about sanding down the connector, but there's not much material there.