78 fuel pump
Hey everyone! I have a 78 Corvette that use to be my dad's. He passed away this year. My promise to him was to make it faster and a better hot rod.
I have an after market fuel pump that has two lines, while the stock pump has three lines. I know what the third line does (what's is 4 I want to no what to with it .)(This last part of the sentence has me stumped.) The motor is not stock, the pistons are .040 over, aluminum heads, air gap intake manifold and a 650cfm carb.
Last edited by Revi; Nov 19, 2014 at 07:47 PM.
Since you did not tell us the type of carburetor I will use this statement. Now if it has mechanical secondaries that is whole new story since they dump fuel whether the engine can burn it or not. Then the engine has to breath through the heads and exhaust to burn all the fuel dumped into the engine. Mechanical Secondaries just open and dump fuel which wastes fuel but at the same time can provide more performance but your wasting fuel that the engine does not fully combustion in the heads.
here is a CFM Calculator
http://www.summitracing.com/expertad...cfm-calculator
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...roducts_id=535
Since you have asked to be educated I figure I will share more information.
If you are choosing to install an Electric Fuel Pump with 2 lines than you may need to install a regulator for the return lines to the tank. This is to keep the float in the Carburetor from being over pressurized and return the excess fuel to the tank to also like others said avoid Vapor Lock.
Since you are younger and may not know what Vapor Lock is then here is an article I plagiarized and will happen without a fuel return line to the fuel tank.
I have known dudes that installed an Electric Fuel Pump of 7 PSI on older engines without installing a regulator to return the fuel to the tank and when Summer hits their engines will Vapor Lock on long trips. They sit on the side of the road until the fuel lines cool down then can travel again.
The reasons for vapor lock
Fuel will turn to vapor in conditions of high heat and low pressure. If the fuel line to the engine becomes hot, the fuel inside the line becomes hot. Liquid fuel turns into vapor or gas. The fuel pump is not able to move the vaporized fuel and the engine will stall. As long as the vapor remains, it locks out the fuel flow. This is why your engine will not restart until it has cooled down. The problem occurs more often in carburetor engines, especially those with mechanical fuel pumps. These systems create a vacuum that pulls fuel. If the fuel vaporizes, the vacuum will not work.
Last edited by MakoJoe; Nov 19, 2014 at 09:31 PM.
Since you did not tell us the type of carburetor I will use this statement. Now if it has mechanical secondaries that is whole new story since they dump fuel whether the engine can burn it or not. Then the engine has to breath through the heads and exhaust to burn all the fuel dumped into the engine. Mechanical Secondaries just open and dump fuel which wastes fuel but at the same time can provide more performance but your wasting fuel that the engine does not fully combustion in the heads.
here is a CFM Calculator
http://www.summitracing.com/expertad...cfm-calculator
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...roducts_id=535
Since you have asked to be educated I figure I will share more information.
If you are choosing to install an Electric Fuel Pump with 2 lines than you may need to install a regulator for the return lines to the tank. This is to keep the float in the Carburetor from being over pressurized and return the excess fuel to the tank to also like others said avoid Vapor Lock.
Since you are younger and may not know what Vapor Lock is then here is an article I plagiarized and will happen without a fuel return line to the fuel tank.
I have known dudes that installed an Electric Fuel Pump of 7 PSI on older engines without installing a regulator to return the fuel to the tank and when Summer hits their engines will Vapor Lock on long trips. They sit on the side of the road until the fuel lines cool down then can travel again.
The reasons for vapor lock
Fuel will turn to vapor in conditions of high heat and low pressure. If the fuel line to the engine becomes hot, the fuel inside the line becomes hot. Liquid fuel turns into vapor or gas. The fuel pump is not able to move the vaporized fuel and the engine will stall. As long as the vapor remains, it locks out the fuel flow. This is why your engine will not restart until it has cooled down. The problem occurs more often in carburetor engines, especially those with mechanical fuel pumps. These systems create a vacuum that pulls fuel. If the fuel vaporizes, the vacuum will not work.
Hey everyone! I have a 78 Corvette that use to be my dad's. He passed away this year. My promise to him was to make it faster and a better hot rod.
I have an after market fuel pump that has two lines, while the stock pump has three lines. I know what the third line does (what's is 4 I want to no what to with it .)(This last part of the sentence has me stumped.) The motor is not stock, the pistons are .040 over, aluminum heads, air gap intake manifold and a 650cfm carb.
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Why do you feel a need to change the pump though?
Why do you feel a need to change the pump though?
You would be better off with an Electric Pump with 7 PSI for Steady Fuel and a Regulator to feed what is not being used back to the tank. I know I am old and not very smart since I have never done it before on Say a 1971 Ford F100 with a 390 Engine out of a 1967 Fairlane GT500 that would only get like 6 MPG since I could never keep my foot out this type of power while using a Carter AFB 750 CFM Vacuum Secondary Carb on the engine with an electric fuel pump and regulator to the return over pressurized fuel back to the tank. I could smoke the tires at 20 MPH if I dropped the petal to the floor but again not really all that smart then working on engines and cars since i know people know more than I do
Maybe I wasted my time on this one but I have read a few performance engine books and how to build performance engines out of small block 350.
Last edited by MakoJoe; Nov 21, 2014 at 10:13 PM.
You would be better off with an Electric Pump with 7 PSI for Steady Fuel and a Regulator to feed what is not being used back to the tank. I know I am old and not very smart since I have never done it before on Say a 1971 Ford F100 with a 390 Engine out of a 1967 Fairlane GT500 that would only get like 6 MPG since I could never keep my foot out this type of power while using a Carter AFB 750 CFM Vacuum Secondary Carb on the engine with an electric fuel pump and regulator to the return over pressurized fuel back to the tank. I could smoke the tires at 20 MPH if I dropped the petal to the floor but again not really all that smart then working on engines and cars since i know people know more than I do
Maybe I wasted my time on this one but I have read a few performance engine books and how to build performance engines out of small block 350.

















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