Rebuilding a fan clutch
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Rebuilding a fan clutch
How is this done, because I see no way of exposing the bearing or anything else, for example a 68/69 fan clutch. Anyone know how or what is done to restore them?
Roger
Roger
#2
Pro
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-rebuild.html
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I'd be interested in how this is done too Roger. Here's an old post that might have some info. Rick
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-rebuild.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-rebuild.html
R
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi,
There was an article in the NCRS RESTORER about restoring the Schwitzer
clutch in Vol. 33, Issue 4, Spring 2007.
It deals mainly with replenishing the reservoir with the proper amount of silicone oil.
This is a possible cure for a fan that 'free-wheels' and thus doesn't cool sufficiently.
Regards,
Alan
There was an article in the NCRS RESTORER about restoring the Schwitzer
clutch in Vol. 33, Issue 4, Spring 2007.
It deals mainly with replenishing the reservoir with the proper amount of silicone oil.
This is a possible cure for a fan that 'free-wheels' and thus doesn't cool sufficiently.
Regards,
Alan
#5
Instructor
Hi,
There was an article in the NCRS RESTORER about restoring the Schwitzer
clutch in Vol. 33, Issue 4, Spring 2007.
It deals mainly with replenishing the reservoir with the proper amount of silicone oil.
This is a possible cure for a fan that 'free-wheels' and thus doesn't cool sufficiently.
Regards,
Alan
There was an article in the NCRS RESTORER about restoring the Schwitzer
clutch in Vol. 33, Issue 4, Spring 2007.
It deals mainly with replenishing the reservoir with the proper amount of silicone oil.
This is a possible cure for a fan that 'free-wheels' and thus doesn't cool sufficiently.
Regards,
Alan
How about a fix for one that has been restored and is way too tight?
Jeff
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi Jeff,
According to the article the information from Schwitzer indicates the fill tolerance of the reservoir is 4ml.
So when refilling the reservoir you shouldn't add more than this amount at a time checking that the fan still free-wheels as it should after each 4ml.
The fan should stop after 3-5 revolutions if the reservoir is filled properly.
How does your fan's clutch act?
Regards,
Alan
According to the article the information from Schwitzer indicates the fill tolerance of the reservoir is 4ml.
So when refilling the reservoir you shouldn't add more than this amount at a time checking that the fan still free-wheels as it should after each 4ml.
The fan should stop after 3-5 revolutions if the reservoir is filled properly.
How does your fan's clutch act?
Regards,
Alan
#7
Instructor
Hi Jeff,
According to the article the information from Schwitzer indicates the fill tolerance of the reservoir is 4ml.
So when refilling the reservoir you shouldn't add more than this amount at a time checking that the fan still free-wheels as it should after each 4ml.
The fan should stop after 3-5 revolutions if the reservoir is filled properly.
How does your fan's clutch act?
Regards,
Alan
According to the article the information from Schwitzer indicates the fill tolerance of the reservoir is 4ml.
So when refilling the reservoir you shouldn't add more than this amount at a time checking that the fan still free-wheels as it should after each 4ml.
The fan should stop after 3-5 revolutions if the reservoir is filled properly.
How does your fan's clutch act?
Regards,
Alan
I removed the clutch from the car because it seemed to be fully engaged all the time and seemed to create a "howl". I put on a new GM replacement for the time being which is much freer when cold. I was told by another rebuilder that it is almost impossible to undo what has been done.
Jeff
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi Jeff,
Access to the reservoir is through the 'actuator' which is 'button' shaped and located behind the bimetallic bar.
The article seems to say that the fluid in the reservoir can be increased or decreased through the opening in which the actuator seats.
I'm thus not sure what your other rebuilder is referring to.
What does the person who restored it originally have to say?
Regards,
Alan
Access to the reservoir is through the 'actuator' which is 'button' shaped and located behind the bimetallic bar.
The article seems to say that the fluid in the reservoir can be increased or decreased through the opening in which the actuator seats.
I'm thus not sure what your other rebuilder is referring to.
What does the person who restored it originally have to say?
Regards,
Alan
#9
Instructor
Alan,
Thanks for taking the time to address this. I will go back and re-read that article. Truthfully, I never talked to the fellow who did the rebuild since it was done several years ago. I probably should anyway. I talked with another rebuilder who advertises in the NCRS Driveline. Thanks for your help.
Jeff
Thanks for taking the time to address this. I will go back and re-read that article. Truthfully, I never talked to the fellow who did the rebuild since it was done several years ago. I probably should anyway. I talked with another rebuilder who advertises in the NCRS Driveline. Thanks for your help.
Jeff
#10
Burning Brakes
I had a Hayden unit on my 68 that worked great and recently installed a "correct" unit from Ecklers. The "correct" unit seemed way too tight and was noisy all the time. Since then I've put about 100 miles on the car and while still no as quiet as the Hayden unit, it seems to be getting much better. Still a bit noisy at freeway speeds but seems to be getting better. On the upside, the "correct" unit does a much better job of keeping the water temp at a constant 180 degrees.