Ok, when I bought my '68 I had no rear lights at all. Today I changed out the 'tail' fuse and I have rear running light - still no brake lights. The Bama game started so I came inside. But while I was testing I noticed that when I flipped the stem for flashers there is nothing - no clicking or lights.

So, do you think that if I change out the 'brake' fuse that I may regain brake lights?

What do I need to do about the flashers?

Thanks guys

 

Ok, changed out brake fuse - still nothing

Also do not seem to have reverse lights

 

Reverse lights are not on the same circuit. That is soothing else.

DO you have a volt meter??? IF NOT...you need one.

You need a wiring diagram also.

You can have a contact problem in the fuse panel...where you might have battery voltage on one side of the fuse terminal...but you loose it on the other side due to dirt, corrosion, etc.

Could be a bad brake light switch also. Hard to say.

A problem in the turn signal connections.

A problem in the rear body wiring connector by the fuse panel also.

Could be a bad ground to your taillights...hard to confirm..tests would need to be performed.

The brake lights and turn signals use the SAME filament in the bulb....do you turn signals work????

DUB

 

No, turn signals do not work.

 

The brake lamps work through the turn signal switch. Go to the brake lamp switch and see if you have power there with the pedal pressed. If you do, then go to the turn signal switch connector and test... Make sure the turn signal switch connector is plugged in all the way, make sure the terminals are not corroded. You want to test the green and yellow for power when the brake pedal is pressed. When we are tracking down a brake lamp issue we remove the tail lamp lenses, and we always place a jumper wire on the brake lamp switch once we know it's working.

If you have power going in and not coming out then your issue is the turn signal switch.

Now to explain the circuit a bit... The brake lamps get power from the white wire running from the brake lamp switch to the turn signal switch. Once the power goes in the turn signal switch it comes back out on the yellow and green wires. If you turn the turn signals on, the switch removes the feed power from the white wire to the that particular side (the side you turned toward) and switches the power to that side to the pink wire... This pink wire circuit has the flasher in it and this is what causes the lamp to flash.

I'm thinking the issue is probably the turn signal switch... but the only way you'll know is to dig in under the column and do some testing. It shouldn't take you long. If you have power there then post back..

Other issues could be grounding at the tail lamp.

Each lamp has a ground wire but each housing also has a brass sleeve inside it. This brass sleeve can become loose or corroded or the grounds can be bad. The best way to test the ground of the lamp housing (if you have power going to the lamp) is to remove the bulb, insert a jumper wire at the brake lamp switch, remove the connector at the lamp and hook your test lamp to the green or yellow terminal on the housing and then touch the brass sleeve the bulb rides inside. If the ground is good, the test light will glow... if it's bad it won't.

Post back.. we'll be watching.

Willcox

 

I haven't ventured into my tail lights too much but I was told our vettes have a separate ground wire for each light. Unlike most cars where the socket just grounds out on the body. Hopefully someone will chime in and can explain this in more detail.

 

Ok, all the fuses have been replaced with new. But after reading Willcox post I went to look at the switch on the column. The hazard switch is not connected to anything. I am concerned that when bubba replaced the steering wheel he may have screwed things up in there. Anyone have a picture of what it should look like with the wheel removed?

 

This isn't something under the horn button or the hazard switch.. the hazard switch is made into the turn signal switch... Replacing the steering wheel won't cause any issue with the brake lamps or turn signal lamps....

Please do as I prescribed and go to the turn signal connector on the bottom of the steering column.. see if you find your answer.. If you have power in and out then we move on.

Willcox

 

Ok, I may need remedial help. My switch was in poor shape - I crimped two wires back together but still have nothing as far as brake lights. However both tabs are broken and it seems like the swtich does not want to stay together. I found a picture of the brake switch but do not see it on my car. Under the dash is a mess.

 

Ok, I looked up a video on youtube and when the poster moved his turn light switch it clicked each time. So, would it be wise given that mine does not click and has no brake lights, and broken tabs on the connector that a turn signal switch might be a good place to start?

 

The clicking noise in the turn signal switch is the paw's hitting the cancel cam. This is a separate issue for you. You can replace the switch, that might be a place to start but I'd still test the at the connector to make sure you have power where it should be going into the switch. Then I'd still test the switch while it's in the car.

Here is another copy of the picture above only with more detail.


Here is how to test the turn signal switch function: Just click on supporting document when you get there.

1967-1968 Corvette Turn Signal Switch Testing

 

Hi Willcox,

Since you bent over backwards to try and help this gentleman with his problem, and since mine somewhat relates, I figured I'd hop in here instead of starting a new thread.

I have a 69 with a problem on the driver's side tail/brake light. Right side everything works fine as it should. Pulled left side lens and saw that the bulb was blown (like violently blown - blacks and blues inside the glass like tie-dye). Put in a new bulb and tested it and everything worked fine for a couple minutes - tail lamp fine, brake light fine, left blinker fine, left blinker with running and brake on fine.

Then I pressed the brake again (probably 5th or 6th time since putting the new bulb in two minutes prior) and no light from left side again. Took out the new bulb and it too had blown violently (inside of glass was now completely white, like the filament had exploded). I then looked into socket and the outer brass sleeve part does seem pretty corroded, but when looking up from under the car I can't really get my hand up there to try and get the taillamp housing out for cleaning/diagnosis. I stuck my continuity tester in the socket (battery disconnected) and it looks like the two positive pins on the spring loaded center portion are shorted to the brass grounded sleeve (or are they supposed to be grounded too, until you turn on lights or press the brake?)

I read that brass ground sleeve can be pressed out, cleaned, and pressed back in, but I'm not sure if that's the cure for my problem. Any advice or thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

You are responding to a 7 year old thread.

 

No, I'm not. I'm piggybacking my question here, as it relates to Willcox's post/information. He'll get a notification that someone has replied to his post, and then choose whether or not to help me. I kinda explained that in the first sentence of my post, but thanks for all your help.

 

Might have been easier to send Willcox a PM.....

 

Might be easier for all you wannabe mods to keep your stupid opinions to yourselves. I posted where I posted. If you know the answer to my question or can provide troubleshooting assistance, great. If you just want to tell me where/how to post, please move along.

 

Sorry Mate. your responding to a 7 year old thread. If you want answers to your questions please start a new thread. you can always reference a old thread with a link if necessary.

 

Great, more assistance from the peanut gallery. Sorry, mate, but you're not helping. What difference does it make how long ago the OP started the thread? I have a question that directly relates to something another member posted in this thread, and I decided to piggyback my question here. If Willcox wants to answer, great. If someone else comes along and wants to answer, great. If everyone who enters this thread wants to turn it into a wikiHow tutorial on the statute of limitations for old threads, not so great. Thanks again for all your help, mate.

 

It's like this. when someone see's this thread. they have to read through all of the outdated post's to get to your post.
Seriously? You want people to read through how many outdated posts to get to your question. a few have told you to start a new thread. believe me, all could answer your question. I personally could fix your tail lights in my sleep. I've been working on these cars since they were new.
Don't come on here as a junior member and rewrite the way things are done.
Plenty of people on here are here to help you. Myself included.
Start a new thread!

 

I'm an old time member, I don't fully understand what's wrong with reading & replying to a thread of any age if it has good informative, useful info ? Then there are the other guys who say there are 3 million threads posted on this topic why don't you search & look them up ....... can't win either way, GEEEEEEZ !!!