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I remove the factory stuff and install new material. I use DYNAMAT...the Dynamat Extreme first...then the DynaPad. I do from the bottom of the windshield all the way back to either the rear seat mounting bolts...including transmission tunnel...and if some customers want it..I even do it in the rear also. Also the doors.
Not behind the dash but behind the firewall top and bottom. In front of the dash. Ground up rags. Soaks water and odors and mice live every day of their lives to find it so they can tear it out and take it somewhere else hidden where they pee, poop and squeeze out pups so that it smells even worse. Sorry for the snarky comments but it's not too good. Just the cheapest stuff they could get at the time that would do the job.
I still have the factory stuff there, which looks pretty good. No mice or remnants...pretty clean car when I bought it.
OK...dynamat then pad? I have heard of using the dynamat, but what does the dynapad offer?
When the Dynamat Extreme is applied because it is adhesive backed...it will drop temps by 15 degrees just by itself and takes out a lot of body noise. When I use the DynaPad on top of it which I glue or secure using the factory firewall rubber plugs...it takes that MUCH further.
I will put it to you this way. Several months ago I did a 1974 Corvette just like I wrote. Both layers were applied after all old adhesive and what not were removed for goods adhesion. With his air conditioning on he can get it to 42 degrees when it is set on MAX A/C....and NO radiant heat from the transmission tunnel or firewall.
I know others use other products...but so far the Dynamat has not failed in reducing road and body noise....along with reducing interior temps.
looking into dynamat and pad now...figure would just spray adhesive pad to mat...my brother picked up a sound deadener from the corvette parts place- is this stuff ok? OR should I just do both dynas?
I used the Dynamat extreme in my '63 from the firewall just below the factory insulation to the back of the rear compartment. Haven't yet decided what I'll be doing in the "tool trays" and in the storage compartment. It took me a bit more than a couple of days, but I was in no hurry and what can I say, I'm a bit **** about some things. I also used the DynaPad inside the doors as well and the sound difference was significant.
I ordered it off of Amazon when it was on sale for half price and ordered a roller to install it along with rolls of tape at the same time. I'm guessing I have about 40 hours in it so far, but when you're working for yourself, who keeps track.
Not knowing what he picked up...it is hard to reply.
I like the Dynamat Extreme due to the thick layer of aluminum foil attached to the product that is adhesive backed.
Also..I like using the DynaPad because it is a closed cell foam. 2 layers of it with a dense flexible rubber material in the middle of it.
I will say this.....STOP and THINK when you apply the material...and that goes for the 'other' stuff that you can get at a hardware store. I will give a tip. DO not install the stuff and tape it all in. The reason is to have the ease of servicing 'things' when needed and you do not want to tape it up so well that you destroy it when you have to take it out due to water or whatever causes you to remove it.
When I do the DynaMat Extreme...due to it being adhesive backed...it gets applied and covers EVERYTHING. I do not do hinge posts..because that is pointless....it is OBVIOUS...firewall and floor boards, transmission tunnel and I will stop at the rear seat track mounting bolts....and like I wrote before..I also do the rear the same way to cut down on noise from the rear wheel wells.
Then when I apply the DynaPad...I glue it to the firewall and also use the rubber plugs GM used. Then I glue the transmission tunnel pieces in spots to the transmission tunnel and STOP the cut line where the transmission tunnel meets the floorboards.
This is so can I can then cut a floorboard piece that will fit in PRECISELY and not need gluing and can come out easily to clean floorboards and remove the plastic floorboard drain plug if ever needed.
The floorboards are done in 2 pieces....one under the seat and one forward of it where your feet go.
I can tell you that the temps drop much more than 35 degrees....much more. I can get you specifics if needed...but I can say that when driving...for quite some time...when I place my hand on the side of the transmission tunnel area...I do not feel heat AT ALL.
How many packages of xtreme & pad from firewall to rear convert space?
(hard to approximate)
thus no sound deadener is needed either, correct?
thanks!!!
The Dyna mat is both...so YES...you do not need any more than the DYNAMAT Extreme and the DYNAPAD
Understand that I have done numerous Corvettes with this material. I know that I can use the 36 square foot box of EXtreme and that does the interior to the rear set bolts. Then it may take another 6 sheets to do the rest. I buy the big box with the 9 sheets that total up to 36 sq.ft. And grab what I need and apply after cutting it out. So knowing the exact number for the rear is something that I do not remember.
The DynaPad may take 4 boxes to do the firewall and the rest of the interior so you have 'pull-outs' of the floor board pieces if needed in the future. AS for the rear...it may take 3 boxes.
Then any extra EXtreme I apply to the inside of the doors so the outside panel is solid sounding when you close the door...and also apply a sheet on the steel portion of the door behind the door panel..and I carefully cut it out so all access holes are opened up....and then I still use the plastic vapor barrier material to keep water under control like the factory did initially...REGARDLESS if the door panel is an aftermarket with a plastic backing instead of the compressed paper material..
If the T-top liners are off...than I apply some of the Extreme to them also...and then cut a sheet of the DynaPad and fit it in there also.
Not knowing how far you plan to go with this...I will write this. YOU CAN DO THIS....BUT....it takes some thought and planning and I use masking tape and apply it to the firewall and then cut out where I want it to stop and mark any holes and then transfer this tape template to the Extreme and cut it and use my hole punches....then I TEST FIT IT...and when it is good...I peel it and CAREFULLY apply it. Knowing where to stop your template is important...The angles are what will get YOU if YOU let it.
I can do a 63-82 Corvette complete ...if I am left alone and not interrupted. From start to finish and that is also pulling the steering column and the heater box is 3-4 days. But usually will take a bit longer due to interruptions and finding 'stuff' that I need to fix....such as washing out all air ducts thoroughly and re-applying the sealing tape to them and gauge bulbs, etc. There is always something that will need to be addressed.
And in case you are wondering...YES...your heater duct on the bottom of the heater box WILL FIT....but your BETTER make sure that you have the material you apply fitting tight..and will need to slightly raise the left side of the box just a little bit so the duct will fit. I have NEVER had one that will not fit....but all my seams fit really tight. NO GAPS and NO BUNCHING UP and serious BUCKLES.
Since I'm not nearly as experienced at doing this as some, like DUB, I did cheat a bit by cutting out patterns using large pieces of news print like paper for most of the complicated sections. This allowed me to not waste a lot of Dynamat but it did add a lot of time to the process. It took two boxes (36 sqft each) to complete what you see above. I started with three boxes so I have quite a bit left to finish the rest of the interior. A C2 coupe would easily take another full box to finish in my opinion than a roadster.
Starting in the rear compartment and working forward will keep you from having to kneel on mat you already laid. Otherwise you'll want to have something to distribute your weight on the Dynamat while you do the rear compartment. Kneeling on the previously laid Dynamat will create divots in the mat and compress it which will result in thin areas.
A sharp knife and a good straight edge helps immeasurably. I'm sure the next one will go much faster, although a few less interruptions would help as well. So far I've also used a box of the Dynapad on the doors and have plans for at least another two boxes of it. It also helps to watch or assist someone with experience to install it and I did assist in doing a couple of Camaros and a Mustang previously.
Dynamat xtreme does heat barrier and sound deadener.
what does dynapad do?
(asking because a TON more money than mat)
Wondering where the best investment/bang for buck is...
thanks,
R
To keep costs down, use the Dynamat in the hottest/noisiest places.
Then use the less expensive insulation to cover the rest of the interior.
(I did the math--it would cost about $700 to cover the interior completely with DynaMat ) I think I spent $250 and two days installing my heat/sound/proofing
Dynamat xtreme does heat barrier and sound deadener.
what does dynapad do?
(asking because a TON more money than mat)
Wondering where the best investment/bang for buck is...
thanks,
R
Factor, you are asking the right questions and doing your homework. My 1974 is the one DUB spoke about. Yes the A/C gets very cold in the passenger compartment, I mean COLD!!! on a HOT summer day in NC.
As far as cost, you ONLY want to do this once! So do it right from the get go. Last thing you need to say is, "Should've, Would've, Could've". The transmission tunnel and fire wall have NO heat radiating from them.
Yes I bought the Dynamat & Dynapad from Amazon.com.
Here is a photo of when the Dynamat & Dynapad were being installed.
Dash Insulation?
