Am rebuilding my 406 as follows...
All forged rotating assembly
Hydraulic roller lifters
Stock stroke with 10.5/1 compression
AFR 210 eliminator heads with 7.1 rockers
Super Vic intake
750 holley
700 r4 trans
3.54 rear end
I'm looking for some advice on how to determine the best cam for this setup. This is going in an 82 that is primarily street but I do take it to the drags on occasion

 

Is it a factory roller block or will it need a retro roller? What exhaust?

 

Retro roller and the exhaust is the hooker headers with side pipes....1 3/4 tubes to 5 inch sidepipes

 

What is the stall on your converter, or have you not gotten one yet?

 

New member here so take this for what its worth lol.... everytime I see this question asked on any forum I wonder if what I'm about to post has ever been related to the OP and others who have asked this question. Hands down the best people to ask tbis question to is a reputable cam company's tech line. With that said more than one camshafts manufacturing tech line. I've even called comp cams tech line two or three times and spoke with different guys for the same engine. Have gotten a few different ideas and views by the experts who have been asked this very question probably a hundred times a week. I think the better question is what are your true realistic goals and what your willing to sacrifice to achieve them. In most case's there will always be a trade off for more power, what ever it may be. That and that age old debate on what's streetable and what's not. Or if at all that even plays a part with some. Everyone has their own opinions about that, even the experts. So when even asking the pros about a cam, I think if the streetable and as always, reliability factors are at the top of your concerns, you may wanna find that tech guy you can shoot the **** with and see if his views on those very factors are even close to yours. Plus I would never buy a cam and/or converter (or vice versa) without speaking with both the camshafts tech guru's and torque converter builder. In most cases this is an area where the guys telling ya what cam ya gotta run are going to help the guy building the converter in what he needs to supply ya with. Those two things, cam supplier and converter builder, have to be on the same page if your going to want great results right off the bat. Every time I have been asked about cams or converters by anyone who knows me and the things I have accomplished, I've always given them that advice. And I've never seen anyone dissapointed in doing so. Others who haven't and bitched, I just shake my head. What else ya going to do. I'm sure there some really great knowledgeable guys here that could help ya, and I'm sure there's some out there that know me that would even tell ya to ask me. But at the end of the day your best bet is to take my advice. Make some calls to different guys and pull the trigger on what ya feel most confortable with.

 

L33 hit the nail on the head - call comp cams, if you want to play on your own a bit, download their cam selection application.

I like your motor selection, please post up on your build thread (you do have a build thread, right?) how you like it with the rear gear you've chosen.

 

Another thing to consider, don't let dyno numbers become your eye candy when you see guys posting up numbers other than from a time slip. Dynos are tools, not yard sticks of who has the biggest dick in the group. I love having or seeing a ride that outruns someone who is posting up huge dyno numbers. I think most fall for this from time to time and I can't tell ya how many cars I've seen of late that have way to much cam. It seems to be an arguement I have when helping friends out. That seems to be at the forefront of so many. "But did you see this guys dyno numbers?" When they are being led to a smaller cam that more than likely will make a few less poneys. But because of there overall combination they have, it will outperform the bigger grind at the strip. I know for myself, there are two huge factors I go by when building a car. Dollar amount, yes I'm a tight *** lol.... and that look on my face when I break it off in who ever I'm running against. Top end power is great, but it takes power and rpm to get there.

 

Calling the tech line is a roll of the dice. Most times you get a kid making minimum wage punching info into a computer and spitting out info. This cam is perfect for your I/E ratio of your heads, gearing, exhaust and intended use. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet Would turn better times with a 2400 stall convertor but your gearing is excellent to get you into the powerband quick.

 

When I was looking for a cam for my 350 I called 5 different cam companies. Each one gave me a different recommendation despite being given the exact same information about my combo. Some of the cams were way too big LOL and some were much too conservative. None recommended a 108* LSA and only one a 110*.
I decided to to the home work and figure it out for myself.

 

Unless you get a cam ground for 1.7 to 1 rockers, they might be a little hard on the valve train.

DO MA NEU!

 

I would never "just" call Comp Cams, I'm not saying they are bad, but the Guys in here are good !
It is a hobby for them, they know what they are talking about. They use a lot of time, to find out, what a kid from Comp Cams will never know.

 

You will need to open up the pushrod holes and up the spring pressure a little or use a rev kit. If you haven't already bought them go with 1.6 max. Your buying a new cam, 1.7 rockers are a bandaid for a cam with insufficient lift for the application.

 

Street driven. So I have to assume something in the low 6000 rpm range for max HP rpm. If so then I would not run the super vic. way to much intake manifold. I would run a vic. jr for peak power around 6600 and an air gap for peak power around 6200 rpm.

You need to verify your rocker ratio. Std SBC is 1.5. A set of 1.7 rockers would be special built rocker and you would need to check clearance of the pushrod with the head.

750 CFM carb will work if you stay single plane intake. You will need an 850 if go dual plane.

Lifter is this a encapsulated roller lifter or a full .750" wheel lifter?

 

Stall speed is 2000......converter is out of an s10

 

I agree on the intake. Weiand Team G matches your head ports and operating range.

 

You have a 10.8 to 1 combined first gear. Convertor will be fine. Remember, mostly street.

 

The rollers are encapsulated
The springs and valves are setup for the 1.7 rockers.
I did originally go with the vic jr intake but the ports were quite a bit smaller than the heads....my thinking was why would i choke them down if the super vic ports were identical (it seems to make sense but im not a builder).
Im really hoping to find a good performaning cam that will work with the rest of my components.
I know there are trade offs.....fuel economy is not a priority and im not interested in a big honkin lopey idle......i just wanna know i can lite the tires up when i want to and eat the occasional rice burner (always a treat)

 

I haven't put a build thread up and not sure how to do that

 

Heads get set up for max lift, not rocker ratio. Somebody is not explaining something correctly to you. Keeping with this a spring that is set up for .700" max lift and you put a .500" lift cam is not good. Since Spintron testing has come around to the industry we have proven that max cam lift needs to max the spring out to around .050" before coil bind. Some feel .070". Some feel right a zero. Large amounts of clearance after max lift promotes spring surge which has been proven in Spintron testing to destroy valvetrain with bad harmonics.

You need to find out what the max lift the heads have been set up for. What is the seat and open pressure of the springs.

Velocity is king on the street. This gives you instant throttle response. The super vic is not going to be a good choice on this engine.

 

I should have stuck with shovelhead motors......