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Alright I finally got a chance to get under the 74 I bought last month and this is one of the maannnny things I saw that concerned me. Doesn't look right. Looks newer but not like its supposed to be there. Anyone tell me for sure? Thanks.
Alright I finally got a chance to get under the 74 I bought last month and this is one of the maannnny things I saw that concerned me. Doesn't look right. Looks newer but not like its supposed to be there. Anyone tell me for sure? Thanks.
That is an aftermarket rear sway bar setup. It shouldn't look like that while sitting on the ground but might look that way when jacked up due to the trailing arm hanging and pulling it down. The bolts might also need to be tightened. You can check the van steel website as I think they have torque specs.
Hi A,
It appears the mis-alignment has bent the top of the bolt on this aftermarket sway bar and link.
I too see the e-brake cable laying loose on the spring.
So a couple of things are amiss back there.
Regards,
Alan
The aftermarket sway bar links all bend like that. If you want a rear sway buy an OEM. You can buy new end links from Corvette Central and other suppliers. The original bars and links work like they are supposed to.
That is an aftermarket rear sway bar setup. It shouldn't look like that while sitting on the ground but might look that way when jacked up due to the trailing arm hanging and pulling it down. The bolts might also need to be tightened. You can check the van steel website as I think they have torque specs.
The constant flexing of the bracket eventually broke off the back half of the trailing arm. Ditch it!
Lame. I took it down off the stands and it still looked wonky. Add it to the list but its got a few more important things ahead of it. I'm just gonna be cruising for the time being so it should be ok right?
Is it possible that the bar was installed upside down/backwards?
The end of the bar should be paralle to the trailing arm bracket at normal ride height. I had a simular aftermarket one that was. The bar end was bent.
You should be able to modify you bracket to get a better bolt alignment.
.
It is not absolutely necessary, as lots of small block cars don't use it. The bar size depends on lots of factors like front end weight, spring rates, etc
If you really want a rear sway bar, they sale used OEM sway bars on eBay. Buy it, clean it up, paint it, buy new hardware from Corvette Central, and install it. You'll have something that will last for years.
Something is not correct as the top is bent. I have the factory 7/16 rear bar, 1 1/8 front bar and Bilstein HD's. Stock rear spring lowered and 1" shorter front springs. The car never handled as well before this combination.
If you are going to run a rear sway bar-my gymkhana car originally had the 7/16 inch rear oem bar-use the factory type bar with the proper end links. There is a very good reason GM did NOT use the aftermarket type end links on the C3 vette.
Something is not correct as the top is bent. I have the factory 7/16 rear bar, 1 1/8 front bar and Bilstein HD's. Stock rear spring lowered and 1" shorter front springs. The car never handled as well before this combination.
Originally Posted by jb78L-82
If you are going to run a rear sway bar-my gymkhana car originally had the 7/16 inch rear oem bar-use the factory type bar with the proper end links. There is a very good reason GM did NOT use the aftermarket type end links on the C3 vette.
All the OP needs is a longer shim between the washers, and of course a longer bolt, I assume it's on jack stands when photos......
I bought a 7/16 rear bar long ago without the factory crap, and did the exact same install.....made my own stuff, and bought a stock front sway bar bushing/washers and longer shim/bolt....been on there for years now....OH forgot to mention, took the factory silliness and heated it up to white and bent it 90 degrees not even needing to drill anything.....ten years+ street driven almost daily....
All the OP needs is a longer shim between the washers, and of course a longer bolt, I assume it's on jack stands when photos......
I bought a 7/16 rear bar long ago without the factory crap, and did the exact same install.....made my own stuff, and bought a stock front sway bar bushing/washers and longer shim/bolt....been on there for years now....OH forgot to mention, took the factory silliness and heated it up to white and bent it 90 degrees not even needing to drill anything.....ten years+ street driven almost daily....
The non factory/aftermarket rear sway bar enlinks will obviously work fine BUT they do limit the trailing arm movement more than the factory setup which can adversely effect handling at the limit of adhesion...
If you are going to run a rear sway bar-my gymkhana car originally had the 7/16 inch rear oem bar-use the factory type bar with the proper end links. There is a very good reason GM did NOT use the aftermarket type end links on the C3 vette.
Just look at the picture, the bolt is bent, the bracket is bent, the bushings are distended. A longer bolt will simply increase the torque on the bracket. There is a high degree of non-compliance between the sway bar moving up and down and the trailing arm motion. In my own direct experience, flex on the bracket broke the trailing arm ("what the hell was that noise?"). Not a cheap repair. This is more after market junk.
The factory bar connections pivot in the same plane as the trailing arm mount and exert minimal stress on the components involved. Its anti-sway force is immediate and linear.
Just look at the picture, the bolt is bent, the bracket is bent, the bushings are distended. A longer bolt will simply increase the torque on the bracket. There is a high degree of non-compliance between the sway bar moving up and down and the trailing arm motion. In my own direct experience, flex on the bracket broke the trailing arm ("what the hell was that noise?"). Not a cheap repair. This is more after market junk.
The factory bar connections pivot in the same plane as the trailing arm mount and exert minimal stress on the components involved. Its anti-sway force is immediate and linear.
So in your guys opinion it would be best to remove this sway bar in the short term? I really don't feel like purchasing a new one as I have other more pressing things I'd like to spend money on on this Vette but taking this crappy one off is free! I'm not going to be doing any extreme driving or anything. It will just be cruising to work and what not when it gets warmer. Thanks!
Rear Sway Bar Link Issue
