Brake warning light valve
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
Brake warning light valve
I know there is a lot of debate about the brake line distribution valve/block function. In my case, when there is a pressure differental between the front and back brakes, it does create a very hard pedal and severly decreases brake function. I think the valve closes the low pressure side and stops movement of the master cylinder piston. So, no brakes, which is not good.
I'm thinking that I can permanently install a valve centering tool --
http://www.performanceonline.com/Com...ve-Bleed-Tool/
that would get me around this problem.
Anyone see a problem with this on a daily driver?
I know, no idioit light, but also, no stoppage in brakeing, which is my major concern.
I'm thinking that I can permanently install a valve centering tool --
http://www.performanceonline.com/Com...ve-Bleed-Tool/
that would get me around this problem.
Anyone see a problem with this on a daily driver?
I know, no idioit light, but also, no stoppage in brakeing, which is my major concern.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,105
Likes: 96
From: Sunrise FL
If there is a hard pedal and no light, check the vacuum booster. Try to root cause the problem before getting out the shotgun.
You could try bleeding to see if you are getting fluid flow to all the calipers. There are differences year to year on the function of the block....other experts advice here??
You could try bleeding to see if you are getting fluid flow to all the calipers. There are differences year to year on the function of the block....other experts advice here??
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
Yes, I have power brakes. I am 99% sure that the valve has offset. I checked it with a meter. The idiot light doesn't seem to work.
I have had this problem before, and it could be very dangerous. Since most cars don't have this kind of valve anyway, what would be wrong with fixing it in mid position--the idiot light doesn't work anyway.
1 day the brakes were fine and the next time I drove the car it had a rock hard pedal and the brakeing was reduced 90% or more. This would be a major problem if I was away from home and didn't have the necessary tools.
I thought about the power booster, but even if it was bad, I should still have some brakeing power.
I have had this problem before, and it could be very dangerous. Since most cars don't have this kind of valve anyway, what would be wrong with fixing it in mid position--the idiot light doesn't work anyway.
1 day the brakes were fine and the next time I drove the car it had a rock hard pedal and the brakeing was reduced 90% or more. This would be a major problem if I was away from home and didn't have the necessary tools.
I thought about the power booster, but even if it was bad, I should still have some brakeing power.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,595
Likes: 7,042
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Rookie comment: The distribution block is a safety device to prevent total loss of fluid if the front brake lines/calipers fail, OR, the rear brake lines/calipers fail for some reason. The piston inside the distribution block is designed to shut fluid off to the front or the rear brakes----whichever is failing/defective/damaged that has the least line-pressure.
(However: Should a front caliper becomes stuck, it "tricks" the piston into shutting off fluid to the rear calipers....and visa-versa....because of the pressure difference between the front and rear systems)
The experts can tell you what your choices are concerning the block.
(However: Should a front caliper becomes stuck, it "tricks" the piston into shutting off fluid to the rear calipers....and visa-versa....because of the pressure difference between the front and rear systems)
The experts can tell you what your choices are concerning the block.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 6, 2015 at 08:46 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Yes, I have power brakes. I am 99% sure that the valve has offset. I checked it with a meter. The idiot light doesn't seem to work.
I have had this problem before, and it could be very dangerous. Since most cars don't have this kind of valve anyway, what would be wrong with fixing it in mid position--the idiot light doesn't work anyway.
1 day the brakes were fine and the next time I drove the car it had a rock hard pedal and the brakeing was reduced 90% or more. This would be a major problem if I was away from home and didn't have the necessary tools.
I thought about the power booster, but even if it was bad, I should still have some brakeing power.
I have had this problem before, and it could be very dangerous. Since most cars don't have this kind of valve anyway, what would be wrong with fixing it in mid position--the idiot light doesn't work anyway.
1 day the brakes were fine and the next time I drove the car it had a rock hard pedal and the brakeing was reduced 90% or more. This would be a major problem if I was away from home and didn't have the necessary tools.
I thought about the power booster, but even if it was bad, I should still have some brakeing power.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
You can have a problem in the check valve in the booster not flowing air correctly. I have had them go bad and putting in a new one fixed it. I could tell something with the check valve 'was up' when I checked it myself acting like the engine would do and I had to fight to get it to flow....while a new one was easy.
I have never had to replace a proportioning valve or metering valve or whatever you want to call it UNLESS it was actually leaking and would not stop.
DUB
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The hard pedal you feel means that the hydraulic braking system has shifted from front AND rear brakes to just front OR rear brakes. One half of the system has had a pressure line failure...most likely a fluid leak in a line, in the caliper/piston area, or in part of the master cylinder. That leakage has caused the shuttle valve in the distribution block to move to only one side, so that the part of the system in trouble will not be operational and will no longer cause a loss of fluid or pressure to the 'working' half of the brake system.
As M. Ward mentioned, doing something to defeat this VERY IMPORTANT safety system is an absurd thing to consider. Find the source of the fluid leak and FIX your braking system.
As M. Ward mentioned, doing something to defeat this VERY IMPORTANT safety system is an absurd thing to consider. Find the source of the fluid leak and FIX your braking system.
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Lewisburg WV
thegazman
I know there is a lot of debate about the brake line distribution valve/block function. In my case, when there is a pressure differental between the front and back brakes, it does create a very hard pedal and severly decreases brake function. I think the valve closes the low pressure side and stops movement of the master cylinder piston. So, no brakes, which is not good.
I'm thinking that I can permanently install a valve centering tool --
http://www.performanceonline.com/Com...ve-Bleed-Tool/
that would get me around this problem.
Anyone see a problem with this on a daily driver?
I know, no idioit light, but also, no stoppage in brakeing, which is my major concern.
I'm thinking that I can permanently install a valve centering tool --
http://www.performanceonline.com/Com...ve-Bleed-Tool/
that would get me around this problem.
Anyone see a problem with this on a daily driver?
I know, no idioit light, but also, no stoppage in brakeing, which is my major concern.