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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 04:21 AM
  #61  
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Beejay,

I think you would be WAY better off just buying an LS3 crate motor, stick a good cam/valve springs in it and a Victor Jr intake. Use your your carb. You can do this setup for about $6k, it's all aluminum, will make plenty of power (480-500 rwhp) and last forever.

Then turn around and sell your sbc stuff, afr heads etc etc to recoup some of the money.

The only "trick" part is getting the distributor less ignition setup from GM performance. It has its wiring harness, ignition box and interface... Super simple to do. You will have to get some new headers and probably tweak your exhaust system... I still think you will come out way cheaper then trying to piece together a time bomb aluminum sbc.

You will have modern power, light weight and an engine design that will support 700-800 chp. This is enough HP to put your lightweight car in the 10s, have a great power band for auto cross and best of off, this is a simple setup and not relying on Chinese blocks, backwoods machine shops and just hoping that everything is good in the block.. (Lifter bores, even decks, core shift on the sleeves and a million other problems that comes with aluminum blocks).

I know youre not really open to making the jump but....you can't argue with technology, more power/reliability and cheaper.

Just my opinion, and I'm an old school guy myself.
Old Jan 25, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Beejay,

I think you would be WAY better off just buying an LS3 crate motor, stick a good cam/valve springs in it and a Victor Jr intake. Use your your carb. You can do this setup for about $6k, it's all aluminum, will make plenty of power (480-500 rwhp) and last forever.

Then turn around and sell your sbc stuff, afr heads etc etc to recoup some of the money.

The only "trick" part is getting the distributor less ignition setup from GM performance. It has its wiring harness, ignition box and interface... Super simple to do. You will have to get some new headers and probably tweak your exhaust system... I still think you will come out way cheaper then trying to piece together a time bomb aluminum sbc.

You will have modern power, light weight and an engine design that will support 700-800 chp. This is enough HP to put your lightweight car in the 10s, have a great power band for auto cross and best of off, this is a simple setup and not relying on Chinese blocks, backwoods machine shops and just hoping that everything is good in the block.. (Lifter bores, even decks, core shift on the sleeves and a million other problems that comes with aluminum blocks).

I know youre not really open to making the jump but....you can't argue with technology, more power/reliability and cheaper.

Just my opinion, and I'm an old school guy myself.
It's not that difficult since there is plenty of conversion support.
That's tough for me to admit as I'm an old school guy too.
Old Jan 25, 2015 | 11:46 AM
  #63  
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This just in:


.Block we Discussed by phone is....a "ALUMINUM" PRO series we get from our Australia Supplier & is 9.025 Deck with "BILLET STEEL" 4 Bolt Main Caps on ALL 5 Positions with the CENTRE 3 being "SPLAYED" for Extra Strength. & "STUDDED"....Block FEATURES Xtra THICK Cylinder Walls & Decks, PLUS Priority Main Oiling System & EXTRA Capacity COOLING System & Many MORE "RACE" Features..Block is PRE CLEARANCED for 3.750 " Stroke with Steel H-Beam Rods...Mains size is 350....Replaceable Sleeves...Block will Handle easily 1600HP+...ALL FACTORY ACCESS WILL BOLT ON



PRICE on BLOCK is $2199.99



We can Fully MACHINE & RACE PREP the Block to almost any Bore size you would like up to a max of 4.165 for $499.99... IF we do this Machining for you, IT then will be delivered to you, Ready for Assembly Procedure ( INCLUDES Special DART Style Cam Bearings that cost $80 & Freeze Plugs Supplied & Installed )...ALSO Block will NEED to be CLEARANCED in the Crankcase area of Block for the Extra Large 4.00" STROKER Crank to Clea in Order for you to BUILD a 427 SBC....You Can SAVE $$ & do this yourself with a Hand Air or Electric Grinder...BUT if you do not feel comfortable doing this,,WE can Do it on a Milling Machine for $185.



IF we SUPPLY ALL the MACHINING ...Block comes with 1 Full Year Warranty







Shipping is Extra Fob CA.The block Itself will be shipped by TRANSPORT & therefore MUST BE Shipped to a Commercial Address "OR" we can arrange for you to Pick-up at the Nearest Truck Terminal of the Shipping Company ..Shipping on Block is $184 + $10. Drop Ship + $22. Insurance = $216.00
Old Jan 25, 2015 | 04:15 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
This just in:


.Block we Discussed by phone is....a "ALUMINUM" PRO series we get from our Australia Supplier & is 9.025 Deck with "BILLET STEEL" 4 Bolt Main Caps on ALL 5 Positions with the CENTRE 3 being "SPLAYED" for Extra Strength. & "STUDDED"....Block FEATURES Xtra THICK Cylinder Walls & Decks, PLUS Priority Main Oiling System & EXTRA Capacity COOLING System & Many MORE "RACE" Features..Block is PRE CLEARANCED for 3.750 " Stroke with Steel H-Beam Rods...Mains size is 350....Replaceable Sleeves...Block will Handle easily 1600HP+...ALL FACTORY ACCESS WILL BOLT ON



PRICE on BLOCK is $2199.99



We can Fully MACHINE & RACE PREP the Block to almost any Bore size you would like up to a max of 4.165 for $499.99... IF we do this Machining for you, IT then will be delivered to you, Ready for Assembly Procedure ( INCLUDES Special DART Style Cam Bearings that cost $80 & Freeze Plugs Supplied & Installed )...ALSO Block will NEED to be CLEARANCED in the Crankcase area of Block for the Extra Large 4.00" STROKER Crank to Clea in Order for you to BUILD a 427 SBC....You Can SAVE $$ & do this yourself with a Hand Air or Electric Grinder...BUT if you do not feel comfortable doing this,,WE can Do it on a Milling Machine for $185.



IF we SUPPLY ALL the MACHINING ...Block comes with 1 Full Year Warranty







Shipping is Extra Fob CA.The block Itself will be shipped by TRANSPORT & therefore MUST BE Shipped to a Commercial Address "OR" we can arrange for you to Pick-up at the Nearest Truck Terminal of the Shipping Company ..Shipping on Block is $184 + $10. Drop Ship + $22. Insurance = $216.00
So I guess the question is, are you going to do it? Did he give you a price on a shiort block when you said he also sold rotating parts.
Old Jan 25, 2015 | 06:35 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 69firebird
So I guess the question is, are you going to do it? Did he give you a price on a shiort block when you said he also sold rotating parts.
Short block kit, $4600 with one year warranty. I'm seriously considering it. He only takes PayPal and my PayPal is only good for a few hundred dollars. I have to link it to bank account. The blocks are not available till next month.


http://www.racingjunk.com/Drag-Racin...SuperSize=true
Old Jan 25, 2015 | 08:32 PM
  #66  
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The part i like best about the total bullsh-t " easily handle 1600 HP ". This is what con artist do best to impress people throw out silly numbers.

We will sell you a block for less then half price what others make and it will handle 1600 hp no problem, easily lol


They will also do all the machine work for you put in a rotating assembly for the price of what just a bare block costs at brodix or dart. Probably good for 1600 hp to boot.

When GM came out with there LS aluminum engine block they rated it at 700 Hp. Yes people have have ran more then that but GM would never put out total BS like 1600 hp or anything even near that amount.


Buy an LS convert over and sell your AFR heads and other parts.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Jan 25, 2015 at 08:51 PM.
Old Jan 25, 2015 | 09:20 PM
  #67  
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Hey, if you can get a fully forged 434 aluminum short block for under $5000, 100% ready to assemble and all is good it is a fantastic deal. If it isn't as advertised or it comes apart in 1000 miles good luck on your 1 year "warrantee". I'm sure the problem would be found to be an assembly error.
Let us know how this works out for you.

You do know Keisler was well respected and took hundreds and hundreds of advance orders for the RS 400, RS 500, RS600 and SS700 trans kits to be delivered later, kept putting people off, collected 100's of thousands in advance payments and filed bankruptcy. No one got transmissions or refunds. Just putting it out there.
Old Jan 25, 2015 | 10:27 PM
  #68  
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Sorry I wouldnt trust that for one minute. Race prep/machine work for 499 no way.
Wanted to do an alum block for mine yrs ago machinist wouldnt do it for a street car took me awhile to figure out why. 4.6 bore alum BBC on RJ caught my eye good thing dreams are for free
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 11:29 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
Short block kit, $4600 with one year warranty. I'm seriously considering it. He only takes PayPal and my PayPal is only good for a few hundred dollars. I have to link it to bank account. The blocks are not available till next month.


http://www.racingjunk.com/Drag-Racin...SuperSize=true
Only takes Paypal. Paypal has a time limit on filing a claim. Murray lives in Canada. I believe by the time the block arrives from Austrailia, machined and shipped Paypal claim time will be expired. If it is a scam how do you get your money back? Sue someone in another country?
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 01:32 AM
  #70  
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I would stay far, far away from that aluminum "race" block. There is so much BS in that sales ad/email..

Don't fall for that BS BeeJay, if it seems too good to be true, it usually is.. You can believe that.

You will have nothing but problems with that thing.

Even good, reputable companies have a ton of problems with aluminum blocks.. Dart, RHS, World..

My buddy just built a $20k 434" LS based engine with a $5k RHS block... After 40 miles, the block started leaking right out of the side of it through porosity.. He tried to get someone from RHS to respond to him for 3 wks.. Just now actually got them to respond.. They want the block back for "inspection". So he will be out all of the money from the first assembly/machine work, AND the expense of machine work and assembly the second time around.. That's IF RHS even warranties the block.

He just bought an iron LSX block and starting over and living with the weight penalty.
My point is, no matter how much you spend or how good a company is, you can still get left holding the bag... Let alone dealing with some shady character with a Chinese/AU block..

If your dead set on sticking with an aluminum sbc, just buy a Dart aluminum block, find a GOOD machine shop, and go from there. You'll easily have $8k in an aluminum short block with all good stuff in it.
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 01:47 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
Thanks for that. I emailed him and he called me back. The blocks are made in Australia, essentially a Dart replica. 1 year warranty if they do the machining. They also sell reciprocating parts. They can build me a 427 short block. They don't take credit cards, pay pal only. Stay tuned.
You are about to fall for a scam.

Most business scams rely on the greed of the *victim*. You are being teed up, and you are falling for it.
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 06:19 AM
  #72  
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And he may just be getting a good deal because the company is able to give one honestly.

Sometimes I wonder why a fairly price company is attacked so hard and the higher then god priced companies get pats on the back. I think i have an idea.

Person A pays 1500 for a radiator tells person B what an amazing piece he got and how great it is. So person B gets one and so on and so forth.

Not one of them want to here or be told my 289.00 radiator works perfectly so the bashing begins..

Old Jan 26, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #73  
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Bee Jay,

Do I understand it correctly that the blocks are not yet available? I ask because you might consider asking for referrals/reviews if they've sold to other customers. Just thinking a little investigative work might pay off before you take the plunge.
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 10:25 AM
  #74  
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I would do all correspondence through the U.S. Mail. keep your originals if it is not as advertised contact the Postal Inspection Service. They Very Aggressively pursue Mail Fraud Cases.
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 7t9l82
I would do all correspondence through the U.S. Mail. keep your originals if it is not as advertised contact the Postal Inspection Service. They Very Aggressively pursue Mail Fraud Cases.
Not really. Due to congress trying to kill the USPS, they are way overloaded and understaffed, so unless it's a seven figure crime it won't get much attention.
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 11:18 AM
  #76  
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BJ I'm wondering why a guy as smart as you are is seemingly falling for this " BS " from a vendor. I recall you work at Vandenburg....a US Air Force base, that is kept running by USA tax dollars....yet your ready willing and able to freely spend your earnings with an overseas company? If we all continue to do this, there will soon be few USA tax payers left as they are all put out of business by China Inc. Then where will you be left? Your falling for a company who I guarantee you does not founder that engine block in Australia, it may hit OZ inside a container ship bound from Shanghai to the USA but, I guarantee you that hardware is not made or machined in OZ! If you log onto the Speed Talk links that 63 Mako provided you will find the details of the iron block that has many re-brands but, it all the same junk with misplaced lifter bores, soft iron construction, mis-machined cam bores, uneven deck surfaces. I know your not a super geek engine guy like I am but, these deficiencies in proper machining will cost power and long term reliability. I know they don't cut corners on the launching systems out of Vandenburg, why not take inspiration from the excellence that is SOP at your employer and follow suit in your Corvette? It is my opinion that if your proceed with the China block that you will regret the decision in the future
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 04:44 PM
  #77  
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I know and have met Murray from Brant Performance, it is the devil in the details that swayed me away from a few engine blocks but this is going back 10 years. You have to look for what is not mentioned as well as what is mentioned. Just being in business for that long says something

If you want something from him I can drive over and talk to him for gas money.

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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
I know and have met Murray from Brant Performance, it is the devil in the details that swayed me away from a few engine blocks but this is going back 10 years. You have to look for what is not mentioned as well as what is mentioned. Just being in business for that long says something

If you want something from him I can drive over and talk to him for gas money.
Gas money ,,, Gas money .. You drive a KIA ..
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 06:28 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
I know and have met Murray from Brant Performance, it is the devil in the details that swayed me away from a few engine blocks but this is going back 10 years. You have to look for what is not mentioned as well as what is mentioned. Just being in business for that long says something

If you want something from him I can drive over and talk to him for gas money.


A very sound offer, if I was in the market and needed feedback north of the border, Wayne's advice would be taken all day long.
Old Jan 26, 2015 | 09:57 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
BJ I'm wondering why a guy as smart as you are is seemingly falling for this " BS " from a vendor. I recall you work at Vandenburg....a US Air Force base, that is kept running by USA tax dollars....yet your ready willing and able to freely spend your earnings with an overseas company? If we all continue to do this, there will soon be few USA tax payers left as they are all put out of business by China Inc. Then where will you be left? Your falling for a company who I guarantee you does not founder that engine block in Australia, it may hit OZ inside a container ship bound from Shanghai to the USA but, I guarantee you that hardware is not made or machined in OZ! If you log onto the Speed Talk links that 63 Mako provided you will find the details of the iron block that has many re-brands but, it all the same junk with misplaced lifter bores, soft iron construction, mis-machined cam bores, uneven deck surfaces. I know your not a super geek engine guy like I am but, these deficiencies in proper machining will cost power and long term reliability. I know they don't cut corners on the launching systems out of Vandenburg, why not take inspiration from the excellence that is SOP at your employer and follow suit in your Corvette? It is my opinion that if your proceed with the China block that you will regret the decision in the future
Please guys, I appreciate technical advice, but not political. I own three German, one Italian, and one Korean car, along with a made in the USA GMC pickup, a Corvette, and Chrysler mini van. My Hyundai is my most reliable. Does that make me unAmerican? I just want an affordable alloy block. I'm not interested in a $10k LS conversion when I can buy running 97 Vettes with LS engine and killer suspension for a few grand more. I am considering all alloy gen1 options. American, Chineese, Australian, and Martian.



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