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I admit I just skipped to the end w/o reading all the post and options talked about, but I see LS is already out. So may I suggest(if no1 else has already) a CNC lightened iron block, from what I've read it should be close to weight of alum and much cheaper. I'd prob use a dart aftermarket block myself to have the service done on. If you try some place like maybe speedtalk or yellowbullet I'm sure you can have places recommended to build you a shortblock.
I didn't read the whole thread but enough to get the gist. The best deal Ive found on a aluminum SBC short block is from Nyes. Most places charge a $3500-$4000 premium for aluminum, where Nyes is $2500. I would send them your top end and have them build a matched long block. That way no surprises, IMO.
I didn't read the whole thread but enough to get the gist. The best deal Ive found on a aluminum SBC short block is from Nyes. Most places charge a $3500-$4000 premium for aluminum, where Nyes is $2500. I would send them your top end and have them build a matched long block. That way no surprises, IMO.
I visted Nyes web site. I could not find an alloy bock or short block.
I could have purchased a no name alloy Chinese block here in Australia and filled it with their no name rotating assembly and saved a bucket load of money.
I decided to have the the engine built in the US (then shipped to Australia) with known parts, tested on a dyno and comes with a warranty.
I visted Nyes web site. I could not find an alloy bock or short block.
Call them-the guys name is Pat. They use aluminum Dart Little M blocks I believe. You can search any shortblock on their site and just add 3k for aluminum. If you send them your heads/cam/intake etc they will assemble your motor there, tune and DYNO it for you. You have to pay for shipping anyway you may as well recieve an assembled tuned and dyno'd piece.
Before you do anything I highly suggest you call the guy-he is straight up.
If you go big head and start pulling some serious R, I'd be considering an accusump or other oil pressure system to make sure you've got lubrication for sustained G-loads. Autocross is fine unless they set up big sweeping turns. Some autocrosses I've seen locally have skidpads - those are great for popping motors.
Nice! I just picked up a set of AFR 220's with a Crower stainless shaft rocker set up. I'm looking forward to getting them on my 406 after I purchase a new cam and lifters.
If you go big head and start pulling some serious R, I'd be considering an accusump or other oil pressure system to make sure you've got lubrication for sustained G-loads. Autocross is fine unless they set up big sweeping turns. Some autocrosses I've seen locally have skidpads - those are great for popping motors.
Not yet, still looking for an alloy block. I think I will be banned from the forum if I buy the Australian/Chinese block. But that is how I made my millions, ok thousands, by taking risk. You would think there would be some that would want to see this block tested. Baring that, I have to buy a new $4500 block, one that can take a four inch stroke, with stock cam location and size, stock oil filter pad location, and stock oil pan spread. Mission Impossible?
UPhrased? You mean send in my 195s, and have them worked on, trade them in on some 220s?
Are they the Eliminators?
What he may be saying is that AFR could do some port work on them - the process of doing so would enlarge the runners and you'd end up with something approaching the larger size.