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Hi, I'm hard at work on the frame and tried removing the rear trailing arm bolts, I removed the crown nut and all seemed good to go but now the bolt seems to be stuck there....it turns but I just can't seem to be able to move it out. I hammered it, tried heating it and hammering, I even cut it on one side and used a punch on it...didn't do squat. So this message is to all of you guys that did a total restoration...how the hell did you get those trailing arms off??
You could try going between the t arm and the shims with a sawzall on both sides and cut that pesky rascal out of there. Many of the catalog places have replacement bolts and shims made of stainless steel. :D
I think the answer you don't want. A sawzall, lots of blades and patience. Some have used a torch or plasma cutter on the bad boy.
I haven't had the luck of tackling mine, yet. Hopefully someone with firsthand experience will add in something more optimistic.
The best(maybe the only)way I found to remove a frozen t-arm is to cut the bolt on either side of the bushing with a reciprocating saw with a long metal blade. :cheers:
I removed the alignment shims so I could get at the bolt on either side of the trailing arm. A moment or two with a cutting torch on the bolt then seperated the whole works from the car.
Of course, a saw can be used instead of the oxy-acetylene torch.
Break out the saw. I was never very good with a torch. I usually cut more than I wanted to. If you are good with a torch go for it. Otherwise get some good bimetal saw blades and have at it.
Some one posted a really great idea about putting the new one back in. Run a string through the frame, both sides of the T-arm and out the other side of the frame. Tie the string to the end hole in the T-arm bolt and pull it through.
I did it before that post and spent way too much time trying to get it all aligned while I had the Tarm assembly resting on the inside of my leg!
Before you start sawing on things can we go back to the basics?
Do you have the trailing arm hanging free? Put it on a jackstand to remove pressure from the bolt.
Shoot the bolt with Liquid Wrench or a similer product every time you walk by the car for 2 days.
Buy or make an offset punch to go around the bodywork to allow you to hit the bolt with a hammer. You need to get a straight shot at the bolt, not from an angle. I used an offset rivet bucking bar. Wail on that baby....er, rap it firmly.
If the above procedure doesn't work, send the wife and children on vacation before sawing. You don't want them to learn any of the words that you'll be using.
If you need the bolts and shims, let me know. I have a set I can sell you cheep. I purchased it to do a rear alignment and only needed three of the shims. My bolts were like new :) It has never been in the rain and always garaged :)
Wow....I thought I'd get at least 1 less brutal solution. :) Besides the wait for a month in liquid wrench one. :lol: I believe in liquid wrench a bit but not when I've bent the bolt hitting it directly with a big hammer. There's no body in the way, the arm is free as a bird...chained by a bolt. :jester Guess it'll get a cutting torch medecine. Thanx for the help guys.
A cutting torch is the fastest -- but its not for the faint of heart.
Sawsall is second -- use Bi-Metal blades or you'll be there forever.
There was another post over a year ago where a guy drilled them out. He started with a very small hole going through the shims, through the bolt, and through the back of the shims. Then he kept enlarging the hole until it was larger than the bolt. The key was the first hole has to be pretty close to center. It sounded brilliant.
I first removed the bearing assys and then used a Sawzall with a 6" long Lennox bimetal blade with 14 tpi. I cut through the shims and bolt on both sides of the trailing arm in less than a 1/2 hour. I do have a torch but was scared of the car catching fire. I also have a plasma cutter, but I don't know how anyone could get it close enough to the shims and bolt to make it work.
I did this about a year ago. I checked with the "pros" in my Corvette club and they all agreed Sawsall. I sawed the castle nut off first. This reduced the compression holding the shims in place. Once the shims were out, the blade could reach the bolt on either side of the TA. I used 2 or 3 blades per side. The Grade 8 bolts were hard to cut. The first TA took over an hour to remove. The shims were really rusted in place and needed to be hammered and pryed out. The other side was a snap.
I keep seeing sawzall. Wrong! Dreimel with reinforced cutting wheel. Costs less than a dollar and you only need one. Everytime I see someone say sawzall and lots of blades, I think "Dude! You need a Dreimel!"
I keep seeing sawzall. Wrong! Dreimel with reinforced cutting wheel. Costs less than a dollar and you only need one. Everytime I see someone say sawzall and lots of blades, I think "Dude! You need a Dreimel!"
"Wrong!" ???? NO CORRECT!!!! :D Question: How did you get at Dreimel reinforced cutting blade inside the frame to cut the bolt?
BlueWasp, you're right. I cheated. I cut the head off the bolt then used a drift and BFH to drive the bolt out the other side. I guess there is no wrong way, just lots of more expensive ways.