So the guy painting my car pointed out to me that my car has a slight lean to the side. It had the 9 leaf steel spring in it, and he thought that the spring went bad, it looked pretty bad. So he suggested I replace it with a composite spring. So I bought a composite spring that was off an 82 Vette and gave it him to install, along with longer bolts.

So basically the same thing with the composite spring installed. In order to get the car to sit level, he had to run the nut way up on the passenger side. Now he said that composite springs don't go bad, but now he wants me to buy a brand new composite spring. I don't think it's the spring causing the lean because the car had the same lean with 2 different springs. What could it be?

 

Photo's 1,7,8,9 and 10.

I can see how the bolts is making white spot on the spring...which is the beginning of the end and the spring will break in time.

You can not use a spring that is a lot narrower than the width BETWEEN the front and rear bolts. The spring can go rotate in the mount. I do not think that this 1982 spring is the trick.

If you put a new spring in and set the nuts to the same amount of exposed threads past them...Drive the car and let things settle. There can be issues that you can not easily see that may require the spring bolts be set at different settings.

DUB

 

You didn't say what year your car is…

Short story…. About 20 years ago we had a fella named Bob Boyce that was having us do a job at a time, frame on restoration. He was doing the normal stuff, paint suspension and so on.

It got to the point where we doing the rear suspension and spring replacement.... The PO had stuffed washers, nuts and what ever else he could find that had a hole in it in one spring bolt. The car sat normal but any good shop guy would see it and think “Weak Spring”. Guess what? Not!!!

After installing a new spring the car, it sat way... way... way higher on the driver side, it was almost comical how different the car sat. So with this.. We next put the car on a frame rack and the story unfolded, the frame was bent. The customer elected not to pull the frame back within specs and he signed off on it, he had us re-install the old spring back in the car…. It was a 69 (Hoping your car isn’t his old one).

Now.... from what I see in the pictures you've posted and... as Dub pointed out.…. I would change that spring to the correct spring or you’ll be having issues you never dreamed of.

I’d also put the car on level ground on jack stands of exact size and shape. Then I would measure freely from the frame to the ground on equal sides at the rear cross-member. If the frame is tweaked you’ll get different measurements and then… Before I painted the car I’d get it to a shop that can fix the frame first.

IMHO,

Willcox

 

Take a close look at the composite spring where it meets the rear housing cover.
There are 2 spacers between the retaining plate (with the 4 bolts) and the spring.
They are not supposed to be there. Notice how the old bolts holding the spring show rusted threads.
BTW - there are several different models of these composite springs with different widths. You need to measure the width at the mounting plate and rear housing. You may have the wrong spring altogether.

Side note - I would have either replaced those 4 bolts from the plate to the rear housing or at least cleaned the threads to get accurate torque readings. Not impressed with whomever did that work. That spring is CRITICAL for suspension and safety.

Good luck solving this one.
Let us know how you make out.

 

My coupe sat low on the drivers side and the previous owner had the rear spring re-tempered and reset but it made no difference. When I replaced the front springs the car sat level. Didn't look as bad as yours though, I would be checking the frame first as mentioned by Willcox.
Also, seems to me that the spacers under the spring are to compensate for the thinner composite spring v's the original steel one, I don't believe that is the way the retrofit composite springs are fitted but others will know how it should be done.
As mentioned, nicks and scratches in composite springs can lead to failure of the spring.

 

First things first, Put the right spring under your car. The way it is sitting in there with all the spacers and the bolts cockeyed digging into the spring is big trouble waiting to happen, plus outright retarded.
Then adjust to where it should be. If it is still leaning, then look at body mounts, and possible frame tweaking. Also, it looks like you lower strut mount on the passenger side is bent.

 

Left rear sat low on mine. I swapped ends with the rear spring, played with bolts and nuts all to no avail. When I rebuilt the front suspension I found the right front spring was not seated in its perch, raising the right front of the car. Additionally the front sway bar was twisted such a manner that when installed it also added lift to the fright front. Seems like the long way to go but if one corner goes up, the opposite will go down.

 

This is possible also.

 

Bad body mount on one side?

 

Is the right side strut rod bent?

 

It looks bent...but there are other issues going on that the bent strut rod will not effect ride height.

Waiting for the poster to reply.

DUB

 

Hey Guys, Thanks for all the input! Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to mess with the car since I posted this. I am going over to the garage later this afternoon, and I'll have plenty to check.

I guess I'll have to put the 9 leaf steel spring back on it because from what I understand, the composite spring is unsafe as it is now.

I'm crossing my fingers that the frame is not jacked up, I already have a ton of money in her.

It's a 75, I have it in my signature, b ut I just noticed that signatures don't show up on mobile browsers, sorry

 

Vette Brakes & Products sells the fiberglass rear springs that will work for you car. It is just that this one for a 1982 is not the same.

Some springs are 2 1/4" wide and some are 2 1/2" wide.

IF you go with a steel spring...HOPEFULLY you still have the original one that came out. The reason being is that some spring manufacturers make the leaf spring a bit thicker..so the originator bolts will not work due to the spring is now too thick and you will need to get longer grade 8 bolts.

ALSO...whoever is putting a steel spring in BETTER KNOW WHAT THEY RE DOING...because they can break the ears off the rear cover of the differential if they try to tighten these outer 2 bolts when the car is up in the air to correct torque. AND if they break these spring bolt threaded areas in the rear end cover...the differential HAS TO come out of the car to change it out.

DUB

 

So I spent a few hours in the shop with the guy helping me with my car. He did check all the body mounts before he painted the car And they where all fine. He says that the frame is within an 8th of an inch. I dunno what that exactly means, but he said if the frame was bent enough to cause this, that it would be so obvious that you wouldn't even need to measure it.

The passenger strut rod is slightly bent, but he says that would only change the camber and it wouldn't cause the leaning. He said it's OK if I don't replace it, but it would be better If I did.

So he is still telling me he thinks it's just a bad spring. I have a hard time believing him because he said the Steel spring the car came with was the cause if the lean. when he put the composite spring in, the car still leans.

Do I really have to spend another $350-$400 on a new spring? Because if I do that, then I want to get 550# front springs with a matching rear 355-360# composite spring. And if I do that, might as well replace the strut rods, and while I'm at it, get a front spreader bar. So that ends up being another $1000! That I really don't have right now.

I'm really just trying to get this back on the road now. I don't mind doing the springs and other stuff next year.

Would it be beneficial to re-install the steel spring, if it leans to the same side, we could flip it around and see if the lean changes sides? Or should I just go ahead and bite the Bullitt and buy a new spring?

 

I don't think the problem is the spring. I think it's the way it's been mounted. Look at the difference in the gap between the left side of the top of the spring to the rear center section and the right side. The spring is moving in the mount and it looks like it is shimmed up on the top and bottom with rubber pads or something. You shouldn't be able to flex the spring up on one side and have the other move down. It looks to me to be lose and moving due to all the shimming and pads and should be solid. Look at the space in your pics from the top of the spring to the face of the upper mount pad. The left side is double the distance... The spring is moving in the mount.

 

It's hard to tell clearly from the photos, but that spring mount does look 'flaky'. And I really doubt that another spring will fix the problem.

And since your 'shop' didn't pick up on it, I'd suggest that you take it somewhere else. If you don't have a line on another shop, call around to some Corvette car clubs and see if they have a good recommendation for suspension work.

 

Look at the seventh picture and the ninth pic. Look at the spacing between the top of the spring and what is supposed to be the mounting surface of the housing. The spring is actually moving in the mount due to the shims and what looks like rubber mounting pads that are not supposed to be there. The distance on the left side is twice what it is on the right and that spring is supposed to be flush mounted on the housing pad and not all shimmed up with rubber or anything else. The spring is NOT supposed to move on the mount and it clearly is and is flexing or moving in the mount. Look at the rub marks on the spring from the bolts.... If pads and shims were needed then it's the wrong spring and it never should have been mounted like that.

 

TRUTHFULLY...What ACTUALLY does this 'guy' you are having to help you do???

I DO body and paint work and I can tell you that I would love to KNOW how he measured out your frame. AND I can tell you...that 'if he' determined it being off 1/8"...you WOULD NOT be able to see that minor amount of distortion in the frame. I am SERIOUSLY concerned about this person ability. Because actually running the nut all the way up on your spring bolt in that one photo is....seriously a joke.

Often times...when these strut rods get bent is because some BOZO alignment person...bent them BECAUSE the adjustment in the concentric bolt for the camber adjustment is no longer able to pull the bottom of the tire in and adjust the camber....because it is maxed out. AND THIS IS BECAUSE the side yoke(s) coming out of you differential is/are worn down too far...and you no longer have the ABILITY to use the factory concentric bolt. AND....if you put in adjustable strut rods....you MIGHT be able to adjust the camber to specs....but if your side yoke(s) have excessive 'in and out' play in it....you ARE MASKING A PROBLEM that WILL NOT get any better...AND will get WORSE. Your photos do not show how the concentric bolts are positioned.

And you CAN NOT EXPECT this used spring made for a 1982 differential which is completely different than what you have to work and give you a desired result. With this spring making contact with the bolts and damaging it. It is worthless.

Actually how bad is it leaning? You wrote a 'slight lean' but what is slight.

If $$$$ is an issue right now...put the steel spring back in and drive it and deal with it and all of the other parts you plan on replacing later.

Then do just that.

I can not tell you to put a steel spring that may have an issue with it. That choice is yours.

All I will say is that if this 'guy' puts the steel spring back in...as I wrote before in an earlier post...I will repeat myself again. HE BETTER know what he is doing or he can break the ends off the rear end cover if it is not compressed and torqued correctly.

DUB

 

Been looking at this thread as my car leans to the left slightly, haven't measured but roughly an inch lower under the chassis rail drivers side compared to passenger side.
I only noticed when I couldn't get my jack under the drivers side where I could under the other side although it was tight, so I jacked it up under the cross member instead.
With it jacked up this way and looking towards the rear it looked pretty level so I think my issue may be at the front end.
Interesting point about the front spring not seated correctly, I'll get it up in the air again and check that, I've already checked for a broken spring and all good but didn't check the seat.
Job for tonight when I get in from work.


Thanks
Graham

 

So, I resolved the issue! It ended up being the front springs. I went ahead and and bought VBP 550 lbs front springs, 360lbs rear spring, and a spreader bar at Carisle. When I removed the front springs, one was longer than the other.

Crazy what people will do.