Engine Dyno Day is Next Week!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Tri-Cities TN
Nice curve, 6% correction factor, I would have to question the hyd roller lifters though Keith, it has lash for the valves at 022/024 Hot.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
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From: Bogart GA
Interesting, the article refers to hydraulic roller cam and valve train but shows CompCam solid rollers in the picture. Likely just an error in the write up.
Also, checked out the carb last night, everything seems to be fine. Well built unit with 1-7/5" butterflies and 1-9/16" venturi diameter. I think the HP Ultra carbs have a 1.6" diameter venturi. I figure I can use my old 833 cfm 4150 carb on the chassis dyno for comparison if needed. Just need to size the jets up a bit.
Funny, started to get stuff going with the engine last night and though I would check the new QuickTime bell housing run-out, As I slid the bell housing over the studs, I discovered that the oil pan drain plug is on the rear of the oil pan and about 50% obstructed by the bell housing outer flange. A little grinding should fix that. I hope this isn't the start of more surprises. My next biggest concern is the new MSD 6 ignition system. Need to find a mounting location for the box and probably the coil. There is a boss on the AFR intake but being plastic, not crazy about mounting anything to it if possible.
Also, checked out the carb last night, everything seems to be fine. Well built unit with 1-7/5" butterflies and 1-9/16" venturi diameter. I think the HP Ultra carbs have a 1.6" diameter venturi. I figure I can use my old 833 cfm 4150 carb on the chassis dyno for comparison if needed. Just need to size the jets up a bit.
Funny, started to get stuff going with the engine last night and though I would check the new QuickTime bell housing run-out, As I slid the bell housing over the studs, I discovered that the oil pan drain plug is on the rear of the oil pan and about 50% obstructed by the bell housing outer flange. A little grinding should fix that. I hope this isn't the start of more surprises. My next biggest concern is the new MSD 6 ignition system. Need to find a mounting location for the box and probably the coil. There is a boss on the AFR intake but being plastic, not crazy about mounting anything to it if possible.
Last edited by KJL; Mar 25, 2015 at 12:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
Well, its been awhile and I thought it was time for an update. Been traveling a lot for work so the engine still sits in my garage. Making some progress but it has been slow. I though that it may be a good idea to check the leak-down rates and after it is installed, do a compression test to establish base line values. The values I obtained were not great but were performed on a cold un-broken in engine. I really have no idea how much time the engine spent on the dyno before the final run....my guess is not much time at all. Most of the leakage is past the rings and piston #1 and 8 have a very small amount past the exhaust valves. Was thinking about spraying them down with WD40 and blowing them off with compressed air but they are quite clean. May be a little carbon on the seat from sitting so long. I think I will also go ahead and check the valve lash while I am at it. I want to know as much as I can about the engine before I drop it in the car.
Cyl
#1 17.5%
#8 12.5%
#4 8.8%
#3 12.5%
#6 6.25%
#5 8.8%
#7 12.5%
#2 10.0%
I used an leak-down tester from OTC using 80 psi for my reference pressure. Cylinder #1 is the outlier. There always has to be one..
Cyl
#1 17.5%
#8 12.5%
#4 8.8%
#3 12.5%
#6 6.25%
#5 8.8%
#7 12.5%
#2 10.0%
I used an leak-down tester from OTC using 80 psi for my reference pressure. Cylinder #1 is the outlier. There always has to be one..
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
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From: California
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
Just did a cold compression test and my numbers range from 170 to 180. Most are at 180. My guess once I have a few miles on her and test a warm engine, those numbers should improve some.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
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From: California
I am running 11:1
I hand filed all rings myself to as exact specs as I could... Every ring was near exactly the same
I check all pistons and boar clearances to be exactly the same with minimum tolerances
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
My compression is also 11:1 however I doubt any engine builder would put the same amount of time and effort into the level of precision we would on our own engines. Cylinder #1 was the low ball at 170 psi. This was also the low ball for leak down. This cylinder must have been done a 4:30pm on a Friday.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
Damn!!! I just screwed up. Put my flywheel and pressure plate on before the bell housing block plate..... crap! The flywheel was a snug fit. I was hoping never having to worry about removing it again..... I have no idea if I am going to be able to removing it without knocking the crap out of it with a big hammer.... Never had to use a block plate before so I just not used to having to worry about it...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
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From: California
Damn!!! I just screwed up. Put my flywheel and pressure plate on before the bell housing block plate..... crap! The flywheel was a snug fit. I was hoping never having to worry about removing it again..... I have no idea if I am going to be able to removing it without knocking the crap out of it with a big hammer.... Never had to use a block plate before so I just not used to having to worry about it...
warning... get an adjustable ball... most likely the stock ball will not be the correct hight, thus your geometry will be off for the clutch lever.. been through this:-)
also... use blue lock tight on everything... yes, it will still come off if you need it off
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bogart GA
Long breaker wrench.. they will come off... i also use a McCloud steel bell housing with block plate...
warning... get an adjustable ball... most likely the stock ball will not be the correct hight, thus your geometry will be off for the clutch lever.. been through this:-)
also... use blue lock tight on everything... yes, it will still come off if you need it off
warning... get an adjustable ball... most likely the stock ball will not be the correct hight, thus your geometry will be off for the clutch lever.. been through this:-)
also... use blue lock tight on everything... yes, it will still come off if you need it off
I have a hydraulic clutch so don't have to worry about that.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA