Yes you do... Both use the same fork and pivit ball

 

Nope... my throw out bearing is inside the transmission. It mounts over the input shaft. I prefer the traditional side mounted slave for ease of replacement but this type is supposed to last a long time. I think they are tested to 1,000,000 strokes.

My flywheel popped right off.......no problems. Just some gentle prying from the back side walked her right off. No pounding. Because there is dried Loctite inside the holes would you recommend chasing them with a tap? I have thread chasers but not in that size.

One of the things that is taking time is I am using a programmable MSD box. I have to wire all that in and find a place to mount the coil etc. what a pain. Figured I would just mount the box up under the passenger side dash so I can get to it with a serial cable easily. I also need to lock my distributor rotor and re-install based on how it was tested. Ran 18 degrees initial with a total of 36 degrees. Initial plus mechanical. This means I need to install at 36 degrees total and retard the timing by 18 degrees at the box. The spring combination has it all in by 2200 rpm so I will need to program that as well. This will be my starting point anyway. I also re verified and reset all my lash settings with a cold offset. Once the engine is warmed up I will recheck against cam card spec.

I need to change out the fuel pump for a higher capacity unit and replumb the vacuum lines to the new Titan intake. Hoping not to have to run larger fuel lines from the tank. I have replaced the power steering valve so I will have about a year of leak free service before it starts leaking again, replaced all the brake calipers with Wilwood units, new/used C5 seats, shark bar with 5 point 3" harness and new rims and tires all around.

 

I wish I had a couple of talented sons to help me..

 

Thank you... yes, I am blessed.. Danny and Chris do a lot for me....Danny went to Oxford University this summer... back now, sure did miss him.. Thank you again,,i

 

1. Wow,,,,, i was looking at that type when i was doing my build... almost bought one... how do you like it?? what difference if any have your felt?

2. if you are running the EZEFI 2.0 like me, I used the stock steel lines... the return line is "to small" but its working:-)... have not seen any problems with fuel pressure via readout in cockpit... you will love the Titan... most amazing manifold out there in production today.

3. hahahahahahah.... feel the same way... been looking for an alternative.

4. with the new brakes and tire/wheel combos, your current proportioning valve will not be correct, you will be over biased in the rear, you will need an adjustable one, and then calibrate it per instruction.

 

The throw-out bearing works well. I have had it for about 7 years. It is a pain to hook up though. I am installing the engine with bell housing mounted to engine. I made s special wrench to guide and push the flare nut into the housing and tighten. I am sure there will be alot of cursing going on when I get to that. Bleeding this type is simple. I only have a single line. Some come with a second that is used for bleeding. Mine has a short bleed line that "Ts" into the main line.

I am going with a 170 gpm unit. I have read that at my horsepower, the stock lines should be able to handle it. I did increase the line size from 6 to 8AN from the fuel pump to the regulator. WE will keep a close eye on this at the dyno.

I thought you had am after market rack and pinion set up?

Thanks for the info regarding the proportioning valve. I am not sure why the bias would change though. The brakes are essentially the same as the old cast brake calipers just made out of aluminum. I am keeping the stock rotor diameter in case I decide to go back to 15" wheels.

 

Just checked my bell housing run out for the last time. It checked basically spot on before Installed the flywheel and clutch. I rechecked by placing the magnetic base on the clutch fingers. They say not to do this and there is a reason.......it doesn't work. My numbers were all out of wack......so I removed the clutch and rechecked using the flywheel, they check out even better than the initial readings....

There are alot of posts addressing how to interpret run-out. Some say the total run-out needs to be within 0.005 and others (Which I tend to agree) say it is the total run-out divided by 2 with +/-0.005". This is more realistic. To achieve a total run-out of 0.005, that would mean a deviation from center of no more than +/- 0.0025. They don't even make offset dowel pins with small enough offsets to do this.

 

Steroids Rack-n-Pinion is what i am running..


I changed to the Willwood big brake kit, 6 piston up front 4 piston in real 14" rotors all around. tires in the back are 275's and going to 285's fronts are 245's going to 255's, on 18" rims..... front and rear sway bars... this along with the other suspension changes such as 550-600# front springs, 360# rear composite spring, lowered about 2+" Bilstin Sport shocks and more.... make the braking totally different than stock... thus, at least for me, I need much more braking in the rear... I think Wilwood told me the stock bias on our vetted is 52%... that means 52% less clamping force in the rear... but with my setup, and maybe yours, this is far to much... what i need? don't know yet, working on it,,,, but i bet it will be closer to 35-40%

 

Time for ab update:
Installed engine last week and attempted the install the transmission tonight. I could not get it all the way home. Seems to be getting hung up where the transmission front boss will not slide into the transmission hole. That is the one dimension I did not check. It could be the shaft is just not sliding into the bearing but I don't think that is the case. I tried for an hour and just could not get it to slip on. I have no more energy. I used bolts with the heads cut off as guide pins. Everything went very well up to that point. Everything appeared to be aligned but no matter how much I pushed and wiggled it, I could not get it past that point. I guess I will remove it and take some measurements and see what is going on.

 

Update:
Purchased a scrap TKO500 input shaft from Silver Sport Transmission and found it bound in the pilot bearing but the plastic alignment tool slid in without any problems. I removed the bell housing from the engine and loosened the pressure plate bolts until the clutch could move, adjust slightly and the scrap shaft slid all the way into the bearing. I re-torqued all the bolts with lock tight and then test fit the bell housing on the transmission. There was a small burr on the inside diameter of the bellhousing bore that I removed first. It slide on but was snug. I tried to mount the trans and bellhousing to engine together but I just didnt have enough tunnel clearance under the car. I am sure if the car was on a lift, it could have been done. Instead of screwing around with that, I removed the bellhousing from the trans and mounted back onto the engine, this time the transmission coupled right up to the bellhousing first gentle push. DONE! Now I can get the car finished up! That was the last major hurdle regarding getting the car back together.

 

Great build

 

Nice, I'm looking forward to the road reports.

 

Engine/transmission/drive shaft/new 700R4 cross member installed. Will be picking up new wheels Thursday. Need to make some fuel lines and finish up all the bolt-on stuff, add fluids, install interior parts and new C5 seats. I should be able to fire it up either late this week or early next. I heard a rumor that the local dyno shop I have been going to for years may be closing. Fuel line is holding me back...those damn AN fittings cannot be removed and re-installed easily. The get hung up in the rubber hose which causes them to strip out the last 3 threads on the fitting making them useless. Don't know why local auto parts stores don't carry them.

 

A LOT of those fittings are china made you need to buy only top of the line american made fittings , Jegs and Summit have there brands and I know several people who had issues like that

Hint , locally look for hydraulic line makers they carry A/N fittings in stock and all the braided high pressure line you need

 

Update:
Got everything buttoned up and turned the key last week and she fired right up without issue. I little choppy as my initial advance was only 10 deg. adjusted the dist. to 18 and it smoothed out. I played with my timing using the programmable MSD 6AL and the engine seemed to run a bit better at idle at a 20 deg initial advance. My vacuum at about 850 rpm idle is about 7 inches. I currently have total advance set at 34 deg. Wont really know how that works until I do some runs. The MSD is nice, I can make adjustments from my lap top while the engine is running. No springs or weights. Dist is locked out. Chasing a power steering leak (replaced valve...what a POS those things are). Putting interior back together today and installing wheels. Going to run her a bit then recheck my valve lash for at least one set of valves with the engine hot/warm and tweak the rest based on the cold settings and recheck my leak down numbers. Will run Amsoil breakin oil for about 500 miles.

 

That's exciting, congratulations!

 

Took car our for a test drive and it fell on its face. Best I could do was 6 "hg vacuum at idle. No obvious leaks. AF ratio looks good at idle which indicates no vacuum leak. The reason for the issue is the primary power valve is a 6.5" hg. With my vacuum at around 6, which I pushed the accelerator down and transitioned off of the idle circuit, the engine flooded, my AFR dropped from about 13.5 to 10. This in-turn fowled my plugs and the cycle to crappy performance began to spiral downward to a point where I didn't think I would make it home.

Answer: Lower rated power valve....so I thought. I called my engine builder and he said the engine should be making more vacuum and if he had a 6.5, then the engine was likely pulling 8.5 on the engine dyno. Soooo, I messed with the tuning more yesterday, managed to get the vacuum up to about 7". I also installed a 3.5" power valve. I can get close to 9" on vacuum but my idle speed would need to be at about 1100 rpm. At about 850 rpm, AFR is around 13.8 to 14.0 and vacuum a steady 7" hg. My initial timing is set to 20 deg. Plan on taking it out for a test drive this afternoon.

 

The offset dowel pins work like a cam lobe. Install in the same position and move them exactly the same amount. So yes the offset pin might be a max of .007 and a min of 000. You are using the caming to center the bell housing. Which you know. I use the long allen locking bell housing dowel pins

 

I was trying to figure out why you have such low vacuum. Did you get a cam card with that 8855-15 SR cam. I can't figure it out on the comp cams sight

 

Yes I did.