Still starter problems
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 366
Likes: 19
Still starter problems
Battery passes load test. Hooked up a new neg cable from battery to starter. Cleaned the grounds, including neg battery cable. Installed new ignition switch. New starter. The starter will engage and rotate the flywheel once or twice, then the starter gear will come out, not rotating, not engage the flywheel. The battery is new, CCA 785. Should I get a stronger battery? I am at a loss here.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
Battery passes load test. Hooked up a new neg cable from battery to starter. Cleaned the grounds, including neg battery cable. Installed new ignition switch. New starter. The starter will engage and rotate the flywheel once or twice, then the starter gear will come out, not rotating, not engage the flywheel. The battery is new, CCA 785. Should I get a stronger battery? I am at a loss here.
There is no negative cable running to the battery - it grounds to the block. Have you checked the block ground to the frame just below the passenger motor mount?
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Mar 18, 2015 at 09:57 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 43
From: Plano TX
The starter solenoid should be getting max voltage/current from the ignition switch when starting. On my 80 I found the ignition switch would sometimes not supply enough to the solenoid and was worse when hot. To test put a terminal on a piece of wire and attach to the solenoid start contact (wire from ignition switch start position connects here). Turn on ignition (make sure car is in park and or neutral) then connect other end of wire to battery Just touch to battery terminal enough to let starter turn over to see if start works.
If that is the problem I fixed by connecting ignition start wire to a relay I mounted on firewall then run battery power to starter through a relay. May seem strange to have another relay but it works. Also use fusible link near battery just in case it shorts at some point.
If that is the problem I fixed by connecting ignition start wire to a relay I mounted on firewall then run battery power to starter through a relay. May seem strange to have another relay but it works. Also use fusible link near battery just in case it shorts at some point.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 366
Likes: 19
Starter challenge
Yes I meant the pos cable from battery to starter. I have two ground cables from the block, and a head to the frame. Clean metal at the frame and block.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 366
Likes: 19
Starter challenge
Cleaned the ground anchor points. Battery seems to pass the load test using a tester tool at the shop I am working with. I may yet pull the battery, and go back to the parts place, and have them load test it. Even considering if more CCA would help. Thanks for replying.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 366
Likes: 19
Starter challenge
The starter solenoid should be getting max voltage/current from the ignition switch when starting. On my 80 I found the ignition switch would sometimes not supply enough to the solenoid and was worse when hot. To test put a terminal on a piece of wire and attach to the solenoid start contact (wire from ignition switch start position connects here). Turn on ignition (make sure car is in park and or neutral) then connect other end of wire to battery Just touch to battery terminal enough to let starter turn over to see if start works.
If that is the problem I fixed by connecting ignition start wire to a relay I mounted on firewall then run battery power to starter through a relay. May seem strange to have another relay but it works. Also use fusible link near battery just in case it shorts at some point.
If that is the problem I fixed by connecting ignition start wire to a relay I mounted on firewall then run battery power to starter through a relay. May seem strange to have another relay but it works. Also use fusible link near battery just in case it shorts at some point.
