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For those of you still looking for a Speed Direct Spreader bar. Corvetteparts Worldwide has a March Madness sale offering the Speed Direct Spreader bar for $81.59 plus $9.99 shipping. Oops just got an E-Mail that the shipping is oversize so it is $23.82 instead of $9.99 for shipping so not quite as great a savings about $15. I still went with the order.
To Jim81 post
It appears from the pictures the right mount bracket is inverted from the left mount bracket . I did not see this in the instructions. Is this a way to provide clearance to one of the pulleys?
Just curious if I will need to do this also. Thanks
It appears from the pictures the right mount bracket is inverted from the left mount bracket . I did not see this in the instructions. Is this a way to provide clearance to one of the pulleys?
Just curious if I will need to do this also. Thanks
on both brackets the mounting pad that the spreader bar mounts to is closest to the bottom of the mount.
Has anyone had an issue where the spreader bar was too long to bolt into the brackets?? I finally got a wrench inside the upper A-arm and was able to release the bolts and get the brackets mounted, but now, even with the spreader bar fully tightened down to its shortest setting, it's a few MM too long to be able to get the bolt in. I thought maybe it was just because the car was in the air, so I tried putting it back on the ground, but still a no go. It looks like I'm gonna have to figure out some way to flex the body outward to give me the extra couple mm's needed to bolt in the spreader bar. Just wondering if anyone else has had to deal with this??
Has anyone had an issue where the spreader bar was too long to bolt into the brackets?? I finally got a wrench inside the upper A-arm and was able to release the bolts and get the brackets mounted, but now, even with the spreader bar fully tightened down to its shortest setting, it's a few MM too long to be able to get the bolt in. I thought maybe it was just because the car was in the air, so I tried putting it back on the ground, but still a no go. It looks like I'm gonna have to figure out some way to flex the body outward to give me the extra couple mm's needed to bolt in the spreader bar. Just wondering if anyone else has had to deal with this??
I had that problem. i just cut off 1/4" from one side of the bar. Other people mentioned the same problem.
Has anyone had an issue where the spreader bar was too long to bolt into the brackets?? I finally got a wrench inside the upper A-arm and was able to release the bolts and get the brackets mounted, but now, even with the spreader bar fully tightened down to its shortest setting, it's a few MM too long to be able to get the bolt in. I thought maybe it was just because the car was in the air, so I tried putting it back on the ground, but still a no go. It looks like I'm gonna have to figure out some way to flex the body outward to give me the extra couple mm's needed to bolt in the spreader bar. Just wondering if anyone else has had to deal with this??
I assume that is the case when the Frame (crossmember) has allready stress "flexed" inward. That is exactly what the spreader bar is supposed to prevent... I will be curious what sagging stage my car is in... I will find out soon. The front crossmember is just a weak spot of the Frame.
Has anyone had an issue where the spreader bar was too long to bolt into the brackets?? I finally got a wrench inside the upper A-arm and was able to release the bolts and get the brackets mounted, but now, even with the spreader bar fully tightened down to its shortest setting, it's a few MM too long to be able to get the bolt in. I thought maybe it was just because the car was in the air, so I tried putting it back on the ground, but still a no go. It looks like I'm gonna have to figure out some way to flex the body outward to give me the extra couple mm's needed to bolt in the spreader bar. Just wondering if anyone else has had to deal with this??
Just wondering if you even went back to read any of the previous posts? Great instructions on how to install these plus what other problems they may have already encountered. Awesome thing about being able to go back and read posts is to educate yourself about.
In case you are to busy or didn't have the time the frame may have settled. In which case the bar may need to be trimmed to fit. This needs to be done with the weight of the car on the suspension NOT while the car is in the air.
Good Luck
Just wondering if you even went back to read any of the previous posts? Great instructions on how to install these plus what other problems they may have already encountered. Awesome thing about being able to go back and read posts is to educate yourself about.
In case you are to busy or didn't have the time the frame may have settled. In which case the bar may need to be trimmed to fit. This needs to be done with the weight of the car on the suspension NOT while the car is in the air.
Good Luck
Yes... I read the post in its entirety before I started the install, along with a million other posts about the multiple different projects I'm working on. I'm a fan of educating myself just like you seem to be and I always search first, but you don't always get every question answered reading back posts and sometimes things are missed when you haven't yet experienced the challenges until you get into the project.
Admittedly between doing all the work and not realizing so many more responses had been posted on this thread, NO, I did not read all of the most recent posts in the last week and did not happen to see the few other people who said they had to cut theirs down.
not a problem how did you make out with the install?
Well the entire front end is all torn out right now as I'm rebuilding the suspension, putting in the Borgeson steering box upgrade, and installing a blower. So I'll be attempting the spreader bar again AFTER I get the blower belt in and get the front all put back together. I'm not even positive it will fit with the blower, so I'm going to have to wait until I get that installed to try again (I've seen some make it work, but not with my exact setup).
Installed it on Saturday. Pretty straightforward. I think I'll readjust it when I get the car back on the ground. Clearance with the fan was good.
the hard part is sometimes remembering which was is tightening and which was is loosening it.
Jim - is yours on a Big Block or Small Block?
you bar sure looks like a tight fit -
How much clearance do you have between the:
1. Pulley
2. Fan Blade
I'm wondering if it will fit a BB with a Double pulley (non PS) and mech fan?
Mine is a small block. It actually has good room between the bar and the fan, about 3/8" and about the same from the pulley. I tried to center it between those.
Mine is a small block. It actually has good room between the bar and the fan, about 3/8" and about the same from the pulley. I tried to center it between those.
Nice job! I see that all of them are for small blocks. Which one did you buy and from whom and how much?
I assume that is the case when the Frame (crossmember) has allready stress "flexed" inward. That is exactly what the spreader bar is supposed to prevent... I will be curious what sagging stage my car is in... I will find out soon. The front crossmember is just a weak spot of the Frame.
Just jack up the car from under the K Member - front cross member and the distance between will open and the bar should fit. My 71 was real tight until I jacked the car from the center. It also holds the Upper a frame mounting bars against the frame mounting point . This made it easy to install the bar. .
Just jack up the car from under the K Member - front cross member and the distance between will open and the bar should fit. My 71 was real tight until I jacked the car from the center. It also holds the Upper a frame mounting bars against the frame mounting point . This made it easy to install the bar. .
Great tip, I'm sure that would help as mine was on Jackstands when it was in the air and I was trying to fit it. Once I get the supercharger all installed, I'm hoping the bar will still clear the belt and I'll have to try installing it by doing this.
OK so I measured 26 1/8" between the shock towers, on the flange where the shims rest. Clearly I'm 1/4" short of the desired mark. No cracks noted. Can I assume this is within range of the spreader bar solution, and would there be any local stress relief benefits to loosening the poly engine mounts during the "spreading"?
So, you are 1/4" short of the desired mark which would be 26 3/8"? Just wondering as I have 26 1/2" on my '66. I can't find any measurements for the C2 in the AIM or in the chassis service manual. I would assume the measurement would be the same for a C2 and a C3, but sometimes my assumptions turn out to be wrong.
Great tip, I'm sure that would help as mine was on Jackstands when it was in the air and I was trying to fit it. Once I get the supercharger all installed, I'm hoping the bar will still clear the belt and I'll have to try installing it by doing this.
This technique is what I did many a few years ago when I installed my speedirect spreader bar....I still can't believe what a difference the spreader bar makes in how the car steers, handles and rides for so little money...Every C3 needs a spreader bar, especially convertibles...
I spoke to the man who did my 85 (not stock) after a few unsuccessful alignments done by other shops. He did most of his work by hand and "checked" it with the machine.
In talking with an "older, now retired" front end man who did the work for over 50 years at a spring shop he owned = that is not a dimension to measure as the manufacturer's use shims to align the front end. It would be a reference point.
He confirmed my thoughts for a ballpark dimension. Measure the track against the dimension as specified, measure the A arm and spindle dimension and then subtract them. He said he would be more concerned with the frame rail dimensions and square-ness of the frame.
He felt the bar would be a good addition to the front end, he said just don't force the front end out of alignment.
So I am a bit confused from your last post.
Previously you state to jack up the car so the frame will spread apart to facilitate the width of the spreader bar. Now it sounds like you don't want to change the alignment so the only thing one could do is shorten the spreader bar.
The whole object of the spreader bar is to help strengthen or support the front A arm section. From my understanding its not to force the sections apart. So in knowing this that is why the instructions say to tighten with the weight on the suspension and not in the air.
when the car is aligned the weight is on the suspension and they will either add or remove shims. (if the frame moves inward they will likely remove shims) after the alignment is done the spreader bar is installed to help hold everything in position.
I don't believe at this point one would want to try and spread the frame back to the OEM spec.
My suspicion on the A frame dimension is that we are dealing with a welded assembly that was probably hand / welded fabricated from stampings in a jig. Thus the dimensions will depend on the assembler. No computers and no robots. As a reference point it will probably vary from car to car, don't know how much.
Yes, I agree the alignment is done with the weight of the car on the suspension. I agree with you on cutting the bar, but I would be concerned and I would have the frame checked for damage / twist.
The reason to jack up the car is to keep the A Arms against the mount. When I jacked Up my car the bar mounts were easy to install as the suspension stayed tight against the frame mounts.
When I started to loosen the A Frame bolts without jacking the car the A Frames started moving away from the frame. I immediately put a jack under the K member and lifted the car a few inches and the A Frame went back against the frame. I would suspect that this is what is causing a lot of issues. Which is probably what I should have said. Sorry it was late for me.
I removed the nuts and put the bar mounts ( angle iron ) on with no issue. I installed the bar and kept it loose between the A Frames.
When the car was on the ground I opened the bar against the eyes / rod ends by hand as much as I could - tightened the nuts and checked the wheel vertical angle (digital level). It did not change. I had rolled the car back and forth to get the wheels seated.
If the dimensions are moving a large amount I would think that you're alignment will never hold. Mine moved less than 1/16 of an inch on a car with 90K+ miles that was driven hard before I got it. Zero rust on the car.
As a Note : I rebuilt the front end last year and have approx. 700 miles on it. - original but all new, springs, bushings and joints.
I would not be cranking on the bar with a 3 foot pipe wrench.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Apr 4, 2016 at 09:00 AM.
Reason: spell
Spreader Bar Sale
