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For what ever it's worth. A spreader bar from Dick Guildstrand's Motorsports in my 68 SB. No problem installing it since I have an electric fan. They had to do a little welding to install it. I think it adds a lot of structural strength to the front end.
Have you checked to see how close to spec are your towers with the weight off of the front suspension?
I have not yet. The bar just arrived yesterday and I hope to start on it tomorrow, and I'll remeasure while on jackstands. As a side note, I've already dropped at least 180lbs off the front of this car.
Due to the weight loss adding height, I'll also be cutting springs and recording the results, then I plan to rig a lever to measure the spring's compressed height with approximately 700 lbs on it. (That's roughly 1/4 the car's sprung weight). When I do the conversion to the heavier/shorter GT springs later this year I will also measure their compressed height and cut them to match the stock springs. I expect this method to result in a fairly accurate final ride height on the first try.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
You'll need to factor into your loaded spring height maths the effective front wheel rate as well as to identify the active coils as installed (post-cut) to accurately predict how much to cut beforehand. I'd suggest waiting until everything else is back together and to set ride heights last.
Anyone with experience installing in a '80 with an LS engine? I have concern about the passenger side mounting point as my return water hose runs in front of the upper A-arm bolting. Haven't seen any pics of the spreader bar mounted on that side. Bolting below the bolting/bushings on the frame?
Anyone with experience installing in a '80 with an LS engine? I have concern about the passenger side mounting point as my return water hose runs in front of the upper A-arm bolting. Haven't seen any pics of the spreader bar mounted on that side. Bolting below the bolting/bushings on the frame?
I had to take my spreader bar off when I added the LS. I will be adding one back, but it will probably not be a "bolt on". I will need to design it myself.
Have you checked to see how close to spec are your towers with the weight off of the front suspension?
26 1/4". So I picked up 1/8" while on jacks. FWIW, the Sharkbite bar looks like it will work great, plenty of clearance between pulley and fan, and no welding necessary. It was pretty easy to just bend the fan shroud away from the control arm bolt to get the nut on and off. All seemed simple until I realized I needed to grind and repaint the passenger side mounting flange because it has a corner that digs into the lower radiator hose. Then, the bar was too long! I took it down about .040" to barely squeeze in. I guess with a slight frame sag and the maximum shims for caster, there ain't much room left.
It appears I am going to have a similar problem with the bar barely fitting, or perhaps being too long. I wonder why Speed Direct does not manufacture the bar a little shorter given the number of people that are having difficulty. Seems like everyone is getting it to work, but it is more difficult than it needs to be.
I've got a Speed Direct bar in mine as well. It bolted up with just a little trimming off the ends. I chucked it up and removed .125 off each end. could have simply taken it all of one end but I am a little ****.LOL
1).Pretty simple to install jack it up remove the upper control arm nuts put the brackets in place then snug them up.
2).run the heim ends in all the way bolt one end in place then put the other end in keeping everything loose.
3).Check the clearance for and aft of the brackets you may need to tap them to reposition them for optimal fit of the bar around the pulleys.
4).Tighten only the upper control arm nuts and remove one of the spreader bar bolts at this time.
5). lower the car and install the remaining spreader bar bolt.
*You may need to remove the bar and trim the bar*.
6).adjust the bar with the cars weight on it by hand then tighten the jam nuts.
don't forget to anti-seez the threads. On my application I did have to shorten the bar only because I had so many shims-I believe it is because of my VBP offset control arms giving so much more adjustment.
Installation was pretty slick took all of maybe 45 minutes
Looks like Richard's got the solution for the more complex builds. I've opted to keep things very simple, plus I like having a lot of room to work with for easy access.
1. Did any of you have problems with the upper control arm bolt just spinning and the nut not releasing? I tried to install mine yesterday and one of the bolts is just spinning and I can't get anything behind the back of the control arm to hold the bolt for the life of me. Not sure if anyone else has had this issues and figured out an easy fix for it???
2. Does anyone have a spreader bar WITH a Roots style blower? I have a Weiand 142 on order and I'm a little worried that it might cause me some issues with the spreader bar. Really hoping I'm not in a situation where I can't use the spreader bar due to the belts from the blower. :/
1. Did any of you have problems with the upper control arm bolt just spinning and the nut not releasing? I tried to install mine yesterday and one of the bolts is just spinning and I can't get anything behind the back of the control arm to hold the bolt for the life of me. Not sure if anyone else has had this issues and figured out an easy fix for it???
2. Does anyone have a spreader bar WITH a Roots style blower? I have a Weiand 142 on order and I'm a little worried that it might cause me some issues with the spreader bar. Really hoping I'm not in a situation where I can't use the spreader bar due to the belts from the blower. :/
Yes to your first question - the knurling on the bolt has worn down. I had to find an offset box wrench to hold the bolt still when I added a bar (1979 car).
Yes to question #1. As stated knurles are worn off. I was able to get a socket on the front bolt head, the rear one I grabbed the shank with a vice grip. I have new ones coming from Ecklers