Hello, this past November I had Safelite replace the windshield in my 82. I have been restoring this car for a number of years so the t tops, interior trim exterior trim were not installed. My wife set this up as a surprise for our anniversary. Forgot to mention that I had already removed the broken old windshield. When the Safelite guy came I told him that the t tops were not ready to put on the car, I had not installed the latches and such, the guy said it would not matter. The other day, I tried to put the t tops on and the windshield cracked. I guess my question is, "should the tops have been installed prior to installing the windshield". I have looked all over the internet for "ammo" to go back to Safelite with with no luck. Could anyone out there tell me if you have any "ammo" for me to go to them with? Sorry about this long winded question.

 

Where did the windshield crack???

DUB

 

It broke about one and a half to two inches from the top left corner looking from inside the car, straight down 3 inches then cuts right across the windshield about 5 inches.

 

My first thought is the windshield frame is rotted . DUB would know better if this is a crazy thought or possible

 

I had the windshield out of the car for some time, only surface rust in one place, cleaned up easily w/scotchbrite. As I have been asking, does anyone think that the windshield frame could have been out of square, there having not been a windshield in the car for a few months. Safelight installs the glass with the windshield out of square, with no pressure from the tops being installed then later I try to latch the tops down with new weatherstripping, they wont latch, only get the latch halfway and the windshield cracks right before my eyes. I have had tis car for 18 years, most of its life has been spent in California or Texas, been off the road in a garage for 10 years. I just joined this forum looking for advice as to weather anyone thinks I have a chance to convince Safelite to honor the "workmanship" part of their lifetime guarantee. Over 250 views in 1 day and no worthwhile answers.

 

You should show a picture of the crack rather than try and explain it.

In my experience on this forum, if you get a lot of views but no response, it usually means that a lot of members are interested in your problem but they do not have experience or a solution. A lot of views is good. Someone is bound to have a suggestion.

If you show a picture, we can probably visualize better as to the way the frame has bent to cause a crack.

Also, this raises the question as to whether the tops should be in place while installing the windshield. Can someone respond to this question.

Steve L
73 coupe since new

 

The windshield pillars also rust from the inside. If there is any perferations on the windwhield channels, this could allow water to run inside the pillar and down onto the number 2 body mount. The outside of the pillar can look good, but the inside is rusted making the pillar weak causing it to bend. I'm not saying this is your problem, I'm just suggesting something else to check out.

Steve L
73 coupe since new

 

Steve, that is exactly the question I am asking, it's moot now anyway, I looked up a vette restoring operation on Long iland NY,asked their body guy and he agreed that the new structural sealant used today has very little if any flexibility, therefore if the frame IS "out of whack" the tops will try to pull that corner towards itself. Since the urethane sealant has no flex, the next weakest area will be the windshield. As I said I have had this car ALL apart for the last 8 years, I found no rust issues anywhere on the car, the windshield frame is solid, a little surface rust from a leaky garage roof, no Swiss cheese
holes in the frame, a good solid desert car. Any way I called Safelite and they agreed with this assesment. Comming on Wednesday to put another windshield in under Warrantee
.

 

A happy ending!

 

JUST MAKE SURE that you are there....and when they are setting up the new windshield (hopefully they do).....they need to take the time to set up blocks so the top of the windshield can only go down but so much...so when the upper trim is installed...and then set-up the side moldings....you do NOT have a gap so wide between the glass and the trim that you can put a golf pencil between them.....and this ALSO means at the outside corners of the glass also. When I am installing date coded windshields...the guys from the glass company I use KNOW what I expect...and when they are installed ...they are SPOT ON and look correct. Nothing is worse than a windshield that was set too low at the top and you have this wide gap that you can not change...and then the gap on the side molding is all 'jacked-up'.

As I wrote in your PM.....I honestly am fearful in your new T-top weatherstrips....which like I wrote...I have had some that are so darn dense...that I would break something when I am trying to clamp them in place.

I know that many glass companies that come in my shop that are paid by the insurance company...are in such a hurry...I have to 'pull back on the reigns' and slow them down so when the windshield goes in...it is right...and usually the installer(s) get pissed off....but like I tell them..."I DON'T CARE!" NOT WRITING that this is the case here.

I know that the urethane's that the glass companies are so fast setting...the crew better be in the 'ZONE'....because if they 'dilly-dally around'...they will not get it right...if you are concerned about any of what I mentioned.

DUB

 

[QUOTE=I guess my question is, "should the tops have been installed prior to installing the windshield".[/QUOTE]

I thought on C3's the t-tops had to be out during windshield replacement in order to remove the upper stainless trim piece.

Perhaps when the cracked unit comes out you will find some debris in the bedding that induced the crack when tensioned during placement of the t-top.

I'll be sure to call safelite for a quote next time i need a window.