Lifting Engine, What size bolts
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
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From: St. James, NC
Lifting Engine, What size bolts
I’m going to use an engine lift plate to lift my big block. I’m not pulling the engine, just lifting it enough the pull the harmonic balance and replace motor mounts. What size bolts should I use to attach the plate to the intake manifold?
Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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This is the plate that attaches to carb pad? Only choice is 5/16 coarse thread....just make sure they go as deep into intake as possible.
Or hook a chain across any bolt holes on the ends of the heads.
Or a block of wood under the oil pan and a jack....
JIM
Or hook a chain across any bolt holes on the ends of the heads.
Or a block of wood under the oil pan and a jack....
JIM
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
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From: St. James, NC
Yes, attaches to the carb pad. I guess question really is how long? I don't want to be too short or too long.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
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2017 C2 of Year Finalist
Just go as deep as the intake allows. Depends on what intake you have.
JIM
JIM
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: San Diego California
Wheatpj,
If I understand this right;
You don't want to do more than required.
Instead of removing the carburetor, do what Jim suggested and lift the engine with chains attached to bolts screwed into the front-facing cylinder head.
Or, lift the engine by way of a couple of intake manifold bolts.
Steve
If I understand this right;
You don't want to do more than required.
Instead of removing the carburetor, do what Jim suggested and lift the engine with chains attached to bolts screwed into the front-facing cylinder head.
Or, lift the engine by way of a couple of intake manifold bolts.
Steve
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Wheatpj,
If I understand this right;
You don't want to do more than required.
Instead of removing the carburetor, do what Jim suggested and lift the engine with chains attached to bolts screwed into the front-facing cylinder head.
Or, lift the engine by way of a couple of intake manifold bolts.
Steve
If I understand this right;
You don't want to do more than required.
Instead of removing the carburetor, do what Jim suggested and lift the engine with chains attached to bolts screwed into the front-facing cylinder head.
Or, lift the engine by way of a couple of intake manifold bolts.
Steve
I am already taking the carb off to work on it. I already have the lifting plate and will leave it on to block the intake manifold until I put the carb back on.
I am probably good if I can get the bolts threaded at least a 1/2 inch into the manifold.
Le Mans Master
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From: Butler Pa
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: East London/SW Essex UK
Race Director
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From: Long Island
He said he uses the plate due to not wanting to scratch the paint. He said he lifted all motors including 600 cu race motors.
The engine builder used grade 8 bolts that were deep into the carb mounts.
Prefer the chains to the 4 corners of the block / heads with a tilt / balancer bar. Just easier to tilt.
I would guess the BB engine is 600 -700 lbs. + 125 for the trans/clutch/bell housing. Each bolt can hold 2+ times that.....
Last edited by BLUE1972; May 1, 2015 at 08:41 PM. Reason: spelling
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
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From: San Diego California
Pretty unbelievable, 4 little bolts, holding all that weight.
Wheatpj: Go for it!
Learn something new everyday.
Steve
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: St. James, NC
Thanks everyone for the advice.
Pat
Instructor
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From: OR
Team Owner
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From: Crossville TN
Using the carb plate and 5/16" bolts is not a problem. BUT, the bolts need to completely seat on the plate (lock it down to the carb gasket surface) and be Grade 5 bolts. Using bolts that are too long will result in side-loading of the bolts when the engine is lifted. I agree that the bolts need to be as long as possible but without bottoming in the threaded hole. Use of spacers or flat washers to take up extra bolt length is fine. Torque the bolts to nominal bolt torque load for that size and grade of bolt (19 ft-lbs if dry; about 15 ft-lbs if oily).
Last edited by 7T1vette; May 2, 2015 at 04:57 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,528
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From: East London/SW Essex UK
Using the carb plate and 5/16" bolts is not a problem. BUT, the bolts need to completely seat on the plate (lock it down to the carb gasket surface) and be Grade 5 bolts. Using bolts that are too long will result in side-loading of the bolts when the engine is lifted. I agree that the bolts need to be as long as possible but without bottoming in the threaded hole. Use of spacers or flat washers to take up extra bolt length is fine. Torque the bolts to nominal bolt torque load for that size and grade of bolt (19 ft-lbs if dry; about 15 ft-lbs if oily).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: charlotte north carolina
When you mention lifting the engine a few inches, remember there's lots of other stuff attached besides the engine mounts. Clutch/ transmission linkage, trans mount bolted to the frame, exhaust pipes will lift with the engine but the crossmember won't, radiator hoses, fuel lines, electrical cables, valve covers may strike P/B booster. Probably some others that slip my mind right now. In a tight engine compartment as a vette has, there's not a whole lot of free space.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
When you mention lifting the engine a few inches, remember there's lots of other stuff attached besides the engine mounts. Clutch/ transmission linkage, trans mount bolted to the frame, exhaust pipes will lift with the engine but the crossmember won't, radiator hoses, fuel lines, electrical cables, valve covers may strike P/B booster. Probably some others that slip my mind right now. In a tight engine compartment as a vette has, there's not a whole lot of free space.
The option of jacking the engine from the underneath using the oil pan was considered, but that make me a little queasy. We used that method when we had to raised the engine in my son Mustang GT for a header install, but the oil pan on that little engine looks way stronger. I'm afraid weight of that big 454 and trans would bent my oil pan like a beer can. I probably am over thinking it.
Yesterday, I spent must to of the day battling with a motor mount bolt (the long one). I had to take the power steering pump off to get a good shot at it with my impact wrench. Seems you always come up a few millimeters short on clearance on this car. This is turning into one of those what did I get myself into projects.
If I can find the time, today I will tackle the other motor mount bolt. I will probably have to pull the starter to get it out.