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This may be a no brainer to others but though I would post it to newbies as info. Had the shop doing some work on my car today...oil pressure line broke, oil hit headers, FIRE! No damage (they say) but potential for disaster. They are claiming that the line was plastic and should have been copper. Dont know who made that mod. I never thought about, or knew this could happen. I was always mindfull of the fuel line and leaks, etc, oil didnt cross my mind.
Mine is plastic as well. Not sure what 'stock' was made of or if mine is the stock one. Sounds like they are trying to cover up carelessness on their part with a charge of incorrect part on your part. :bs
If that is the case then they are no vette experts. Any damage should be paid for by them. Make sure you get the the line before they hide the evidence.
They dont claim to be specifically Vette experts, but they have done good work for myself and my family before. I know they dont try to pass off stuff on others. I have seen the line before, but never paid any attention. I might have hit it doing something before for all I know. Just doesnt seem to make sense to have it be plastic though. Not that I doubt stock was plastic. I never even realized the gage was mechanical! Like I said, lesson for the newbies. :crazy:
Did they state how it broke? Seems it would leak first not just break. It is a softer plastic so it must have been wrenched on or cut by something. Not saying they did break it but if a mech did something careless and broke it they could be trying to save their job. Just look into it is all I am saying. What work where they doing?
As said, plastic is stock.
With rubber motor mounts the engine has considerable movement.
This is the main reason for a plastic line.
If copper is installed, and the engine movement is not addressed, then the copper line will break in a very short period of time.
Copper is not flexible !!
Example: In a Cessna 180 aircraft, they use copper line for the oil pressure.
The engine is "fixed" to the frame and they use loops in the copper before passing thru the firewall to the instrument cluster, with a bracket mounted to the firewall.
If they put copper on, do a very close inspection before accepting the repair.
Fevre: I IM'ed you, but they were fixing a leak on the intake that I installed :smash: so I can not for sure blame them for causing any damage. AND, I just really want things right and I more or less trust the mechanic.
Barry, I called them and asked about your concern. They are claiming that they are using a flexible copper, made by VDO? specifically for this purpose. They think the line may have gotten too hot, or hit the header (left hand side), causing the leak. They are insisting that copper is the way to go, and that they wanted that specifcally because of this reason. They agreed that plastic was stock. They are assuring me this is a better way to go. I dont have a reason to doubt them unless someone has experience on this. Thanks for throwing in on this, very much appreciated.
My '71 has had copper as long as I've had it, which is about 5 years now. Also have rubber engine mounts. No leaks yet. It is shaped in a coil before going through the firewall.
Have to throw in some thoughts. My '73 had a "plastic" line. Actually a hard, black, "plastic" line with fittings at both ends that were made for the plastic. My '69 BB has what I'm assuming to be the original (steel I think, not copper) and there's a couple of large loops built into the routing to allow for all the movement/vibration, and both were routed and guarded against getting too close to the exhaust.
I dont remember if mine was coiled or not. Since it was one of the working items on my car, i have not paid too much attention to it. :D I will check and update how they setup the new one. I dont know how it might have gotten so near to the header, but I have done lots to the car as of late. Do you guys think I should add "copper oil pressure line" to the list of mods in my signature. :D
My 73 had a plastic line as well. When I was working on the intake I pushed on the + year old line and it broke. The old line had become less flexible over time and did not take the extra flex. Got a replacement plastic line kit at Advance Auto Parts complete with brass fittings.
If you install a new line I would suggest you replace the old line all the way to the gage. Extra work, but it could save a headache later. Hot oil in the gage cluster would not be fun.
Roger
I have a 72 LS5. The "correct" setup is a copper line from the engine to just below the valve cover. A plastic line attaches to the copper line and goes through the firewall to the oil pressure gauge.
I was detailing my engine compartment and accidently broke the plastic line. :cry It was pretty brittle as you can imagine after 30 years of heat and weather.
Nylon is not stock. Neither is copper. The real factory line is a copper plated steel line. For those who have the original factory line, hit it with a magnet and see if it sticks. I think over the years, most of our cars have been converted over to nylon due to leaks and breaks. Though, if given the choice, I would take nylon over copper since copper work-hardens and fractures very easily. And as long as you don't kink the nylon or mis-align the barrel seal, it should last about forever.
On the early sharks, it's factory black plastic that usually gets replaced with the generic white plastic. It does get old and brittle. Copper will work if you do the loop thing.
Dayum, someone is ripping you a new butt hole. Auto Meter sells the copper line kit and has been around forever.. If I'm not mistaken the part # is 9224 and runs about $10.
Also, NHRA requires that a mechanical oil pressure line be copper or better. Use a nylon line a good tech guy will say tell you :seeya
My 69 has a white nylon (nylon is plastic) line on it, I'm not sure it is original, but it was hard, nasty and kinked enough to be original. I am going to replace it with a new line I got at the parts store (I think it is sold by Sun) for about $10.00