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Bought Eckler's front end bushing kit - needed to replace a bent tie rod - so figured why not refresh everthing.
2 questions:
1) The upper ball joint doesn't seat into the control arm hole so the flange is flush to the top of the arm. Am I supposed to cut the hole bigger?
2) The Polyurethane bushing/ball joint kit comes with ball joint boots - I tried removing the existing boot - but will have to completely destroy it to get it off. Is that right??
Frustrating! The weather is nice and I want to get my "Avette" on the road!
If anyone has any experience or knowledge on this, Please let me know asap.
Last edited by UnperfectC3; May 5, 2015 at 11:04 PM.
I'd rather not go out any purchase new parts to replace new parts that I just bought that are supposed to work. I've read on Zip's on their upper ball joints to peel off the boot, install down through the control arm, bolt on with the 3 bolts and slide new boot on.
Guess I'm hoping that someone else has gone the Eckler's rebuild-kit route. Hind-sight and with some reading I see different brands are better quality. But this is what I have!
I didn't feel that it was right to keep tightening the bolts - doesn't seem like the ridge of the boot is ever going to fit in the control arm hole, no matter how much I torque the bolts down
Last edited by UnperfectC3; May 5, 2015 at 10:38 PM.
take a flat tip screwdriver and pry the boot off. Just be careful, once you get it started it pops right off. I did the same and it works fine. I applied some grease to the boot lip and it slipped back on. Once the knuckle is on it will not come off.
I am doing the ecklers front suspension kit as well and was looking for an answer to the ball joint boot question. So I guess I have to pry off the new boot to get the poly boot on. Does the poly boot leak grease because the bottom is not sealed and is just pushed on from the knuckle?
Also was wondering the best way to remove the ball joints from the control arms? I have cut the heads off with a cut off wheel and will try to punch the rivets out or drill them out.
Yeah - to remove the original boot from the ball joint, you'll pry it off. There really isn't much to it, slim screwdriver, work your way around like opening a paint can.
I thought of that too - the poly boot that's supplied just slips on and is kept by the spindle. Old grease is going to go somewhere. Not a good answer, I know.
The top control arm, you're doing it right. grind off the rivet heads and use a punch or old bolt to punch the rivets through.
The lower - is much easier - two bolts from the sides.
All and all was happy with the "kit". Just took my time is all.
Thanks for the info. Not sure I like the old grease going out somewhere, because if it can get out contaminants can get in. Don't want to pressure wash all of the grease out and worry about lubing it more, so I might not remove the rubber and not use the poly boots.
I finally got the ball joints off by cutting the rivet heads off, then drilling them out with a smaller bit and then punching them out. They were rust welded and just punching after grinding heads would not get them out until I drilled.
Thank you
I hear ya - I struggled with the decision to pry off perfectly good boots that are sealed. all the while have the poly boots sitting there. The rubber boots will only be good for another 30 years - hopefully that will be enough. (haha)